trickedcarbine

By simply knowing that the PWK is superior. Maybe if, and only if you can get a killer deal on PJ's run them. They're pretty damn decent on trail or dune bikes

The whole list of site sponsors on the home page. Might be able to network some good shit on The HQ Facebook page

Slide shape, choke circuit/idle, needle mount.

Gonna be hard pressed to just find one laying around. Definitely might help to move this to the wanted section or just call RK Tek.

Go on.......

Hmm, good point. Sucks to be in the land of tea and crumpets.

Does either set have reservoirs? And is it safe to assume both sets are set up for your weight? If it were me, I'd rebuild the Elkas. But only if you are willing to have the springs re configured to triple rate set up. At least dual rate. If the spring swap makes cost an issue, the works can just be gone through and are an awesome bang for your buck.

Welcome aboard. Hope you're ready to haul ass and talk a little trash. Ya kinda have to be willing to take a little shit around here as we're all a bunch of overly opinionated dickheads.

^ why?

Definitely get the dinosaur some new legs and boingers.... Maybe timing and compression, but they will hurt the low end if it's not been gone through. Other concern, it's 80 over? Those cyls are on their last leg. If it were me I'd just leave the engine as is till it needs another rebuild as you will have to start over. Maybe start saving dinero to make that happen soon.

^ word? You sure weed whacker Jim Bob can't do it at the small engine shop?

Try some of the sand rail or pre runner fab shops for something similar. Maybe look in to using half of one of the custom brake line clamps? Otherwise, the above fellas are correct with U bolts or conduit clamps.

^ nah...... Couple ideas: -Bronze bushing in clutch basket -Worn clutch parts ( is it lurching?) -Kicker idler gear bushing -Flywheel is taking a dump -CRANK BEARINGS......

Yeah, should see what most anything else from 1987 made.....

There are several shops in Cali that can help you out. Take a peek at the sponsor section on the homepage. It is best to have your machinist inspect the cylinders first before ordering pistons to determine how much the cylinder needs to be bored or honed in order to clean up any damage. Then and only when they have pistons in hand can they properly size the bores to the new pistons. Also, if it is an old stock motor, it's probably time to just do a total tear down. At least put new seals in the cases, new outer bearings on the crank and have it trued and welded.

Sure, that could rattle the crank apart or out of phase if it wasn't pulled apart and welded.

I actually got to beat one up in silver lake. It was not to shabby. The guy had it in a pretty decent hybrid dual arm chassis. It could be hot lapped 5-6 times on the strip, but if you were just doing casual duning it did ok as long as there was some wind in the radiator.

The IMS are nice

Really the "bigger" motors are almost more work in the dunes. I think you'd be surprised how well a 4 DM would be in the dunes. If you can foot it, that 10 would be a bad bitch to run with if you can get it hooked up. Plus with the 10, you could probably get away with using those pipes that came with it.

^ moron

That would be pretty friggin ideal.

You will be better off with a finger style lock up for drag racing anyway.

Again, you can STFU....

They had packages. Suspension, motor, appearance. Or you could buy an ATV through them already complete. They were like a Duncan racing type deal, but geared more toward a recreational enthusiast.

Find a -2 if you're serious. Maybe that -1 lonestar in the FS section.