trickedcarbine

You are describing it a little goofy. But IMO, the best place to read is the hose going from the head to the top of the rad. That is where you get the actual running temp.

No access to a parts washer?

Your theories are blasphemous.

A few years back Vito's revamped their 4mm crank. I've had one in my hands, and it truely is a stout set up. Unfortunately I think they waited to long to step up and HotRods mopped up.

Obviously both very capable fellas. I've dealt with Dan Hull, in the past and his stuff is top notch. However, he is beginning to become quite the flake. He picks and chooses his work at this point, so if you don't know him, expect it to take a LONG TIME. That's if he'll even do it. As far as Mat Shearer, be prepared to pay. He to is not a full time engine builder.

TimeSert.

That's a tall order. What set up are you trying to fuel with what carbs?

Wouldn't it just make sense to send it to one place that can handle all of the above? IMO, if someone can't handle each task involved with the crank, they really shouldn't be touching it. I've seen all kinds if guys willing to weld cranks, but none with the ability to actually true the crank before burning a weld on. Makes sense as to why there are guys out there with welded cranks way out of spec.

Bump

You ever toss that -2.5 no link swinger on there?

Did it have a spacer plate on the bottom of the cylinders? And were the cylinders ported for the crank? If it's one of the typical throw together 4mm motors on a spacer, you can easily re configure that thing and get a pretty wild motor. Get someone to make sure the crank is true, and also make sure it's welded. Have you split the cases? If so, now is the best time to do the trans. You can get it cut for duning and trail riding or just a full override for drag racing. Just go through the entire bottom end and replace all the little special clips, washers, clutch components, pancake bearing for the clutch pressure plate and adjuster, steel bushing for the kick starter gear behind the clutch. Just get that thing rock solid on the bottom end and you can go quite a few different routes for the top end later on. Lots of different cylinder options for 4mm set ups.

I'd bet some one drilled the outer positions themselves.

The oil is from the transmission side of the case. It's totally sealed off from the crank case. The crank is lubed solely on fuel/oil/air mix as it enters the motor as a vapor.

^ Not the the best stuff out there, but should be ok.

It got hot, so assume there is engine damage. See what kind if compression it has. Do that and you'll at least know if there is even a motor that will run.

That thing is friggin melted. Pull the clutch cover to see if the impeller gear is even ok. OEM is fine, but there's lots if nice billet upgrades out there.

Still own the 4mm serval? If so, part the 521.

Oh, you must like to actually like the bike to leave straight..... Hints and clues right there folks.

^ also an easy solution.

Helicoil or TimeSert of some sort may do the trick.

^ That. A little 1211 on the gasket, goes a long way.

What stroke are they set up for? What pistons/domes were in there? What was squish?

?

Brad Painter was to Jim @ Passion what this fella is to Kevin @ Herr.

http://www.cpindinc.com/pub/view_product/31?lm=3&name=CPI-6854 Piston info right here.