trickedcarbine

If you are buying new reeds, get the VF4's. Few updates in them that help with bottom end grunt. Stock carbs would be the way to go on a woods build like that for sure. They will help it still feel snappy. Sounds like it would help on your budget as well. There are also RZ forums out there as well.

Absolutely.

Got ya. Ever thought of going to a Honda Thumb throttle to help that situation as well? Or even a twist throttle?

It's just not something that is common. So getting a straight answer will be near impossible. That's why I say it's more of a hassle. The theory is that come race day, a simple single carb would be easier to change. But with a non existent base of knowledge you'll be hard up to know where to start. Which turns in to lots of fiddling and tweaking that the single carb was supposed to avoid all along. You can try and compare your set up to what's out there, but if you change one aspect, it will be all unknown again.

Any way to sell stuff to recoup dollars to get what you need?

Do not run it with those intakes messed up like that. It will cause a melt down.

This is like when a woman buys a ton of groceries you don't need, just because they were on sale.... Brake components, handle bars, and possibly the clutch. Shocks will need custom arms with the lower perch relocated to work. There have been guys that modified 450 arms to work on a banshee, but trust me. It fucks spindle geometry all up.

Got a rotary tool? Ultimately it depends on the manifold and if the 40mm boot will sit on it properly. If you have that, then open it up inside by hand. It would be a helluva lot easier to just buy what you need though.

Ahh, that was posted a while back. There definitely needs to be some sorting out there. Carbs sort of appear to be stock. With the choke like that, it's possible that they are VM 34's. Need better photos to verify though.

This would be why I recommend you just keep the stockers. You will be asking for info on a not so common set up so info will be kinda sparse. We can probably get you close, but you'll definitely be fiddling with it. Some one posted a factory bike needle for 2/1 set ups just recently, so maybe track that down. With the stock carbs, I would bet guys here could have you dialed in within one afternoon of tuning. The 2/1 isn't gonna turn that thing in to a stump pulling machine that you're hoping. Can I ask why you feel the 2/1 is the golden ticket and what you hope to get out of it?

I'd bet they would huck that motor right to 9K like a freight train, but it would feel like it's hitting a wall once it got there. Not much over rev on those SLP's. But with your Carb choice, that may be ok for what you want.

-No on the FMF Gnarly pipes fitting. -The banshee Low end is pretty Identical to the RZ350 with just a few minor differences for the RZ. RZ cases have the window under the drive sprocket. They also have oil pump provisions on the factory RZ side cover. However just about anything is interchangeable. Either cylinders will go on to either cases. Either trans will go in either set of cases as well. You will need an RZ specific head to go on the RZ cylinders. (Look in to Wicked or TDR) -Zeel-tronic electronics would be the way to go Any way you can get a photo of what you got posted?

Back before all the different aftermarket cylinders were available, using a RZ top end in a banshee lower end was quite the hot ticket. Zilla is dead on about the transmission. It has wider spread ratios which really don't help a banshee under 80+HP get moving quickly in the tight and twisty stuff. As far as pipes, there aren't many. I believe the only 2 pipes that will bolt on and clear the powervalves on the cylinder are Paul Turners and Rockets. As far as chassis set up for the woods, there is a whole section here dedicated to XC riders. Look through some of the posts and you will get the gist of what guys are doing/buying.

Yes, if you must. The 38 would be far better then a 35 IMO.

As I've said previously. Not one of those jumps are ever timed even remotely ok. I would imagine it gets old being forced to flat land on the face of a hill by the end of the day. You still have the hill bike just incase you ever get the itch again?

Why not just avoid all the headache and just jet your stock carbs? Once you dial them in, you don't have to do much if anything to them at all. I suggest that, because it's easy to get those dialed in. The 2/1 is quite finicky and can be a bit of a challenge. IMO, the single will require more tuning ability then the dual stockers.

What exhaust are you thinking?

Roll FTW!

# when folks are jelly they can't spend money on stuff they don't need!

Too late! Or is it....?

If you do go after the 2/1 intake, use a 39mm PWK. Look in to the EEK needle. And look for a Graydon intake or a stock early 440 yamaha exciter snowmobile intake.

Paypal ready.

Wow! That's a helluva trail machine! The stance is really friggin' sweet. It's got that GNCC vibe going on. Like the full fenders on there to. Nice job man.

^ will cut a mutha fukka for that bumper..

That^. The Mull has different geometry. It takes a slight adjustment to get it working like butter.