wayfst

from what you just typed, I am going to try not to beat up on you too badly. just because a bike has a nitrous system bolted onto it does not automatically make it to blame for every mechanical failure that the bike experiences. i cannot see what a broken cam has to do with the nitrous system. there are a lot of other things that would break way before that cam would due to the use of nitrous. no, i do not know one Eric Lords, however, i do not think i would let anyone from boondocker mess with mine either. i've spent a lot of time on the phone with them and in their shop as well. we have taken bikes up there, NOT mine, and i was thoroughly unimpressed--just because they can design it, does not mean they can make it work. we did lose one motor under boondocker's watch, and Rocky, the owner, helped pay for the damages. i don't know about you, but i don't ride my bike to increase the life expectancy. every time you start it, you shorten its life. i am not trying to be rude, dude, but that's my 2 cents. we're done.

i've got some. let me send you some pics and you tell me if you what them. all i have are the pipes, is that cool?

as you advance your timing you need better fuel to keep it from detonating. i've gone as high as 10 on a 7mm stroker, thats like 13 on a stock motor, but you must run race gas to do things like that. so buy some race fuel turn it to 8 and let'er go!

if you jetted your bike when it was, say, 70 deg. out- now it's 95 your bike is rich. warmer-richer colder-leaner

i don't know what you mean by "unreliable." everybody's brother's cousin's roommate's friend knew a guy who had a postman who was once bitten by a dog whose owner had a sister with a boyfriend that had trouble with nos once. first-hand experience, please. i've heard all the stories. my sled has run for three years on nos without a problem. every time i have ridden at st. anthony's, i have ended up riding in a pack of banshees running on nos. i'm sure you have been there more often than i, being so close to it, you probably just don't know where to find a nos bottle on a banshee, they can often be kind of hidden, or just coincidentally there aren't any banshees on nos around when you're there. i have never seen a case where nitrous has caused premature wear, but i have seen and had my own experience with operator error and blowing the shit out of your motor, but that was all human error, the nitrous was doing exactly what it was supposed to be doing. all these people buying totally new machines or constantly rebuilding them, i don't understand what that has to do with nos at all.

I do not know who GT performance is. my suggestion is to get a nitrous system that is designed for a small motor instead of a nos system or nitrous extress system that is designed for a car. when you get serious, let me know and i will send you photographs and names of the dealers around my area and the different choices you have for systems designed specifically for 4-wheelers and snowmobiles. i ran a nos (brand name) system last year and even though it was easy to tune, it just did not make a good combination for the size of the motor and what i was trying to accomplish. i switched back to the system that i had used prior and it worked a lot better.

please try not to take what i said out of context. the original poster did not want to do any porting, he was asking for bolt-on horsepower. everybody else came at him with porting, i just simply told him what would be the best bolt-on for horsepower (the fact that it gives you more than porting is just a bonus). i was addressing his specific needs and questions without trying to change his mind about porting, and adding my personal experience. i do not know what you guys consider a "little" bottle, I run 2.5 and 3 lb. nitrous bottles on mine. one bottle will last about five hours on my banshee and two days on my snowmobile and I probably use it more than most. most people will discover when they add nitrous to their bike or machine, unless they are an extremely good rider, they will hit the button and immediately jump on the brake, so they are not expending a lot of nitrous with every hit, but they still get the horsepower. 2 seconds on the button feels like an hour. any more questions, please feel free to ask.

no worries dude, most of you guys are from back east (that's not always a bad thing). out here in the west i have two or three manufacturers of nitrous systems for ATVs and snowmobiles, so for us it is like changing a set of handlebars--it's not that odd. As far as a Fast and Furiouser--i had nos a loooooong time before that movie came out--and I didn't even see it until it was on cable. so i am relatively new to banshee hq and since my stay i have just been trying to push back the frontier of ignorance about nos regarding ATVs (and snowmobiles) because if you guys ever come out to St. Anthony's in Idaho, you are going to be horribly shocked and dismayed at the number of people running nitrous out here. our bottles may run out, but they made more! saying that your power is 'all bottle' as if that is a bad thing, well, that is like saying an unattractive woman knowing how to wear make-up and look sexy, is a bad thing for the woman--even though, does it matter that it's just make-up? it's cheaper than plastic surgery and you're probably still going to sleep with her. saying that, i'm not against porting or other modifications, obviously, look at my sig below. as far as modifications, i have gone a lot further than most everybody else on this board and run many, many different modification combinations, and STILL the biggest single gain was when i added nos. the only difference between my small piped motor and my 450 stroker that i have now is the 450 would just take more nos. so buy pipes, buy porting, this guy just asked for more horses without porting, i was just trying to accomodate, and nos is a cheaper option with larger gain than porting. so we're cool, if you guys would like to debate, let's debate....let the truth be told.

nos, nos, nos!!!! for less than porting and set of pipes you can nitous your shee and have, what do you want?, 20 horses, 40 horses? people can say whatever, you push that button the bullshit is over, you win. that is a bolt on that porting will never touch.

compression check, maybe a burned piston.

mine takes 124, if i counted right, on 13-40

well put nightrider, iv'e had cast pistons last 4 years, iv'e never had forged last over two and then, like you say, you must bore.

is that a new plug? if so, you could be a little fat.

yea, they look fine.

i was on clip slot 1 to start now it's centered.

2 late now, isn't it. for high performance stuff they are the best, but if your banshee is just piped i wouldn't use them. they r very noisy and don't last as long as cast pistons.

i moved my clip down 2 when i changed from vf2 to vf3. thats all. if your mid range is lean your pipes won't come on very well.

screw the other mods, you said "unstoppable". nos, nitorus, run the bottle, speed, cold fuel whatever you want to call it. dollar for dollar, pound for pound it's the best. what else cost 500-800 bucks that will give you 40% more power. nothing, i have it all on mine and when the race is close push that button, race over, i win.

change cdi boxes, reset his timing back to zero, richen up his jetting by one or two. i had this problem last year the cdi wigged out a took 4, count them, four motors and since you can't test cdi's its best just to change them and be sure. hope this helps.

how about this, cdi timing slips just before it goes out, the timing slips causes the cylinder temp to skyrocket and seizes the piston. now no spark. ?? just a theory. let us know.

what!!??

I have to apologize! My brother-in-law's Banshee was brought to me without any spark and I checked the stator, which tested fine, and since there was no history of the CDI screwing up on this bike, I went ahead and changed the stator and tested the secondary coil. To my surprise, there was still no spark. I changed the CDI box and lo and behold--spark! CDI boxes do, indeed, just stop working. My bad.

it goes carb., manifold, reed, spacer, and cylinder.

i have a 6" swinger. If I had to do it over again I would go with the 4". My 6" does not give me the traction for the hole shot that a 4" would and with a 4" you would not have to modify the rear shock.

cdi box's won't just quit, mess up your timing (oh yea!), but they are solid state and sealed. without physical damage you should still get spark. stators test good all the time and don't produce.