wayfst

any advance on his timing? if his plug was fried he needs to check his piston.

this is a money question. how much do you what to change and spend? i had more fun with my banshee when it was just piped, ported with nitrous. just jet it once and ride, want more power just push the button. now i have to watch everything all the time, timing becomes critical, octane in the fuel must be right, grab the nos at the wrong time and you either stretch the chain or wipe out. no buying used parts to much money in the motor to take the chance. i check the plugs all the time, all day long, temp will change my jetting 1-2 steps here in idaho from morning till 2 pm. all this and i still lose maybe 5% of the time, but now i don't think of the 95% that i won, i think all that power and i still got beat!? so think about it as much as you need, nos is cheap, dependable power. start there and know memories are made on the sand not in the pits.

sorry 2 c that. i've heard of cold seizure, but dude, holy crap. top of the piston sticks and yanks the wrist pin out! imagine the force it takes to do that. it's not dead till it's in the ground.

well u don't look lean. so if something hit your plug it had to come from somwhere. lower, upper bearing or a piece of the ring. if it is your ring or a stuck piston, it would have done it no matter what, a loose bore would cause this. we will rev our snowmobiles for 30 minutes at a time on a stand to make adjustments, i doubt that your couple of minutes had anything to do with your misfortune. just destiny

5 grand in 10 months on just the motor. had some issuses last season.

tm, no question. 250 to 300 bucks worth of carb there.

+4 or +5 you should be ok. higher than that you'll need race fuel. watch your plugs, if they turn yellow turn it back down.

better yet, turn them upsidedown and point the stingers staight up!

this is the tire we use in idaho for the grass drag. 1st or 2nd 3 years running.

You are going to throw your old airbox away, it is outdated, overused, and inefficient. 34 tms won't fit on your airbox. Dual air filters and manifold to raise them up away from your clutch arm. Good luck, enjoy.

i've had that happen to me. check the top end, everything was fine, decided the packing was old and getting hot-flying out. shrugged and kept riding. never affected the bike.

had a set of fat bastards from vitos that the a arms hit. didn't bent them horribly, but there was no way to fix the problem.

if you are going to weld your crank just pull it out and get a 4mm stroker off of ebay and sell your stock crank. the 4mm will show up welded and true. a minor amount of porting and they are getting as much out of these 4mm as i am out of my 7mm. if you are going to spend some money go for something that is really going to wake your bike up!

what are you the race fuel salesman? so what will happen to my banshee, that hasn't happened in the last 3 years, if i use octane booster? will it burn down, detonate, melt a plug, change the color of my plastic, throw my tires out of balance, bend my handlebars, make me ride naked in the rain, forget where i park my bike, lose my car keys, eat bad food, make me go on and on to some guy on the internet who has a thing about race fuel. a banshee motor is much like all 2 stroke motors, a piston, a cylinder, a carb, a crank, and some other words that start with the letter c. it dosen't care if it's chevron gas or micky 120 race fuel, the fuel just has to do the job it was mixed for. drag racer have a very short distance to decide the out come, they are looking for max out put, not longevity. if there bike blows up at the end of the day, but they won, thats cool. i just need enough to stablize the fuel, so when i push the button it doesn't detonate. now my advantage is i ride at elevation, this gives me a larger safety window as far as compression. i've ran 110 race gas and av gas, i wasn't impressed. so use whatever you like and leave the cap lock button alone.

ya, just a stock crank. i had 165 psi at 4500-5000 ft. so whatever that is at glamis ca. at the time i also ran stock piston and a stock clutch. your clutch is going to slip before you twist your crank. i've put alot of stress on a stock crank and have never see one twist.

gets used to it? i ran 18 domes at sea level, 4 degrees advanced, nitrous, and pump gas. i had no issuses, i may have run some octane booster, but there was no way i was over 100.

i ran 18 domes at sea level pushing 20 horses of nitrous on a stock crank everyday for a week, never twisted the crank. your clutch is going to slip long before your crank moves.

try a hydraulic store. the local one here has made for me brake lines and nitrous lines as i waited. all out of stainless.

if your axle slides in your carrier from side to side, then use a couple for cresents to tighten. i use locktite( the blue stuff) and stand on the wrenches. can't get them to tight.

start with the stator. pull the flywheel check the wires. vibration will break the solder. next check the wire harness. this is the common areas to start. good luck. let me know what you find.

call fmf. they will tell exacty what to use.

two turns! wow, thats alot. 1/2 out will be plenty to tell what is going on. get crazy with your adjustments and things get confusing.

if you're only out 1/2 turn what happens when you go out further? if the hesitation get worse or starts to backfire you need to go richer. if neither help let me know, i have more ideas.

look out for sharp drops, they = a ride on the med-air transport. OR. has those nice roly dune with no issuses. Idaho will try to kill ya. on a busy weekend you'll see life flight at least 2-4 times. i have my membership for my ride already paid. hope i don't use it, i hate hospital food!

amsoil saber 100:1 mixed 80:1 riding, jumping, racing, pushing nitrous and the edge. never a problem. more gas less oil, if it doesn,t make it fast,it just weight!