odaen

probably so both tires hook equally off the line, helping you launch your quad in a forward direction as efficiently as possible. even if it doesn't work as intended, what's the point of being a jackass about it?

cameron@ redline racing does all my work. dan@ patriot racing would be my 2nd choice.

I sat my bike in the sun for quite a bit to soften the plastic up, and used a carpenter's knife. Then, went back with a flat file and squared everything up.

partsdirect has them priced decently. PassionRE would probably cut you a nice deal too.

Just for my own understanding. Would the guy be considered a sponsor, if he's doing the work on BFS's bike in trade for use of the land? Just givin ya shizz, BFS. Hope you enjoy your yfz

smi motorsports had better prices when I looked last

I'd be hugely surprised if polished cylinders dissipated heat better than painted or powdercoated ones. The cylinders main cooling mechanism is the water. The temp of the water is going to be the gating factor in how hot the cylinders get. On top of that, simply painting soemthing black will make it dissipate heat better. Someone educated in physics can explain it. Here's a link to my cylinders fresh from getting powdercoated. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=52323

Someone mentioned Patriot, and I'd concur with that. Cameron at Redline Racing is top notch too. He's done both of my motors, and will do the 3rd if there is one.

Cameron at Redline Racing would be my first pick. Dan from Patriot Racing also has a superb reputation as well.

make sure you order a clutch cover gasket when you order the springs.

3 I think cascade innovations sells them for like $3 a piece.

even better, cause the cub put a hurtin on the bank acct

even better, cause the cub put a hurtin on the bank acct

lemme know what you want for the fullbores.

I dunno, I'm kind of mixed on this one. I feel for you, but I understand their point. We, as consumers, have demanded the lowest prices and have therefor agreed to get shitty customer service. 15 years ago, you would go to the local bike shop and pay a larger mark up on it, but not have to mess with the mail order problems or paying shipping. Alba sent the merchandise, so really, they did nothing wrong. You made the choice to pony up the $$ to have another sent out, and that's where you went wrong, since you didn't have the cash to sit on. Again, I feel for you. But if you put yourself in their shoes, I believe they performed as paid.

for colder air, I think you need to richen your jetting. I dunno how much, because I've never delt with that extreme of temp change.

Just follow the clutch cable into the perch (the clutch lever on the bars). You'll see a threaded adjustment there. Loosen the round jam nut and screw the adjustment into the perch until you can see or feel some slack in the lever, not much, but just make sure all of the tension is off of the cable. See if the clutch still slips.

I think it depends what part of the country and what time of the year it is. That bike would sell for $4500 in Oregon in the spring and summer. Could probably sell it for $3800 now if you were patient. But I know that Cali and Oregon have the highest resales on quads. I've seen many nice banshees sell for 2200 to 2600 back east in the MA and NY area.

yikes, the timing plates are $35. you could get material taken off your head and a new set of reeds for your $300.

what he said. I ran my 30's with the stock intakes.

I'd try to adjust it first, quickly. Tighten the adjustment screw on the perch, until you get a little bit of slack in the cable and see if it still slips. It may not wanna idle in gear, but you can take the adjustment back out a little til you hopefully can find a happy medium between no slip, and ease of shifting at low speeds and idle. If you do decide to throw a new clutch in it, find some toomey clutch springs and alternate them with stocks (you'll need 3 of each).

Mains will probably fall within the 240-260 range at sea level

Yeah, I agree with starting rich. But starting rich by 3 or 4 jet sizes is no fun, so if we can get him in a better ballpark, it'll save him time and headache. This bike with the CPI's, it has no porting, correct?

I think what he's saying is that the LT arm has the shock mount moved out, which would require a longer shock body for the same travel. The +2 comment was separate and implied you would get longer travel from any +2 arms.

stock mains are 200's. i didn't see a mention anywhere in your post as to what pipes? stock pipes too?