odaen

I think Jim's price includes shipping. That's where I got mine from, but I ordered the show chrome version, so it was about $100 more. If you have a builder that's local, you might be able to get them to match Jim's price though and not have to deal with shipping....dunnol.

4mils are definitely trailable. you say yer cylinders are ported now though, so it depends what your port timings are at now. because when you throw the 4mm crank in, they will change.

for the money, it's hard to beat the price/performance of the NOSS head

If you want to see some pimpin' rides, go visit cascade innovations's showroom. i get wood every time I step in that place.

http://www.esr250.com/ I've seen some cheaper ones on eBay too, but not sure I'd trust them as much. My brother has these ESR ones on his son's racing carts, and they're nice liquid filled guages.

Well, he's running SST's, which perform very similar to T5's, fattys, gnarlies, and pro circuits. Also, your running a cub, which from the factory has a 197 duration triple port exhaust, hardly a good formula for low-end torque. I'm guessing the dune port is somewhere around a 192/128 flavor that should lend itself to quite a bit more bottom end with the SST's than your cub setup. Dunno :beer:

A long rod crank does nothing to displacement or stroke. A 4mm crank adds 4mm to the stroke, giving almost a 10% increase in displacement, and a good increase in HP everywhere. A stock bore 4mm has like 373cc's of displacement vs 347 for stock.

Does love exist? It can't be scientifically proven, but I'd guess that most people believe it does exist. Not being able to prove it scientifically, does that make most people idiots for believing that way?

Yes, but you still don't want to send a ball joint into an oven at those temps.

Are you running stock stroke still? What compression, elevation, etc? Also, what is your ignition timing set at? Compression and timing advance can make a pretty good difference in your bottom and mid-RPM performance.

I doubt that the coolheads provide that much improvement in terms of cooling. If you need more cooling, I'd look at getting an aftermarket radiator and impellar. Torchworks, Toomey, and a handful of others make oversized radiators for banshees that are bolt-on replacements. ESR makes a pretty nice inline temp guage for like $69 where you could test it out for certain.

You need to get a ball joint remover from Yamaha for an 87 warrior. Then, you'll need to turn it down some to fit inside the shroud. Apply some heat to the ball joints, cause they use use red thread-lock on them. Good luck :beer: Those badboys are like $35 each.

Well, there's definitely more than 1 way to skin a cat for sure. You can take a 7mm cub, and deck 1.5mm off of it, and throw a 4mm crank in and it will be a completely different motor than a normal 421 cub. From the factory though, I'd also highly not recommend a cub setup for anything other than drag racing or open dunes. They are monster motors with wicked power bands.

I'd imagine just fine. There are quite a few people on here with 100+ HP bikes that run them. The only guy with a 10mil that I know of is Loco though.

PM creamsickle on here, and ask him how he likes his cub setup. He's got the 2 into 1 carb setup and some Paul Turners, and I think he likes it. I'm thinking he had his cub decked to lower the port timings. Maybe he'll chime in here.

Can't say how much we appreciate your efforts and sacrifices over there, man. You should post up an address for us pussies and old people to send you some coffee, dvd's, and magazines to help make life a little more bearable over there. We do that for relatives of co-workers, and it sure seems to help out some. If you head over to everything2stroke.com, they have the user and service manuals for most 2 strokes, the banshee included. I'm a huge advocate of the 4mm's. For most of the people that own banshee's, they are the most cost effective route to go if you are building a motor, and you definitely will get alot of performance out of a 4mm. My dune ported 4mm with stock carbs and pump gas dyno'd at 76HP. To accomodate the longer stroke, you will either need to put in a spacer under the cylinders, or get some domes cut to allow the pistons the extra 2mm of clearance. For your application, I'd strongly recommend not using the spacer plate, because it will raise your transfer port timings too high for a trail port. So, go with someone that can machine the domes to your needs. If you would like an even better explanation, click the link in my sig. He's a top notch guy that will keep your costs down by not selling you shit you don't need.

Thumb throttles sell for about $25 Stock reeds and intake $15? Might be able to get 10-20 for your head, dunno, never sold one

Thanks, fellas. :beer: As for the Viagra......I'm confident Brooke can vouche for my natural 3" erection with no pills.

This was my sleeper...

So, you already ordered the 16mm crank and cheetah setup from Cameron? Where are you from? I wanna see this thing run.

I personally ran 32:1 yamalube, but you're not gonna hurt anything running 24:1. White smoke can mean you have a bad head gasket or O-Ring if you have a coolhead, and it's allowing water to get into the cylinder.

Looks like a hella good time, fellas. Nothing better than roosting your 4 choke riding buddies. :beer:

Whichever you need, you won't be able to find. It's murphy's law. The hardest ones to find though, seem to be the 95-96, because they were only used for the 2 years.

It depends, really. If you are going to replace parts with new, then I'd strongly consider the 4mm crank. You can buy them new for like $415 shipped off ebay from VIPRacing. They come welded and trued. For slightly less, you can get a new stock stroke crank, but then you gotta pay someone to true and weld it. So, the 4mm crank is actually cheaper in the long run. While the cylinders are off, do yourself a favor and get them ported to your riding style. Just a dune ported 4mm can make 70-85HP depending on your pipes, reeds, carbs, and head. You put a 4mm ported motor back in, and you'll be on a completely different bike. It was a night and day difference the first 4mm motor I had done. That being said......you can score some very cheap deals on used stuff. I've seen welded cranks go for less than $100. If you just want your motor back together, this might be the route for you.