J.J.

4mm Serval

Hi Snop, 05, PC's are also preferred by a few here in South Africa and the original thread that you guys posted up showing the loaded runs last year is often referred to and very much discussed. There are still a few who are skeptical, but there is not much doubt that for the set-up used in THIS case, (28mm Mikuni's etc) the PC's dominated the run. As far as I understand, a huge benefit of doing a loaded run is that you can accurately determine the A/F ratio across the throttle range which should translate into improved performance in real world riding conditions. To give added credibility to your runs, would it not have been possible to confirm a base line A/F ratio for each pipe tested, just to prove that one pipe was not better jetted than the other? That way there could not be any argument about the issue. From what I have heard the A/F ratio is not easily plotted on a graph same as Torque and HP? I would love to see the results of the same run with 33PWK's! cheers & keep up the good work! J.J.

I know what you mean, I bought my Snipers from him and as you say, communication was not his best attribute. I expected that though, hope it's all worth it in the end.

I buy all my parts from F.A.S.T. Exhaust Couplers

ask Jim!

here's a set, $150 http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=152107&st=20 wacko2000 is a fantastic seller, you won't have any regrets dealing with Joe

would you be willing to split the pegs from the heel guards? I already have IMS pegs.

I have a set of snipers for my serval, haven't run them yet. My motor will be set-up for fast, wide open off-road racing, with the occasional 2nd gear stuff. I questioned James Smart about pipes for the serval and here's his unbiased opinion, for MY application. Shearer's were not an option for me, because it is almost impossible to run an airbox with them.

Sure, the piston pin on the Aprillia RSA engined GP125 is blocked. The purpose of which as stated by Frits Overmars (google him, definitely no crack-head) is to prevent short-circuiting between the transfer and exhaust ports on the Aprillia RSA engine. The volume inside the piston pin can also dampen the system's resonance, as on the RSA engine the piston pin, during the stroke coincides momentarily with the aux exh ports... Can't comment on the rest of the 'modifications' on your motor.

Those are good in my opinion, to me it's the width of the soot ring that matters, not the color so much.

This has been covered before, nothing new there. I wouldn't believe the SKF salesman over Steve Rothwell, more balls can carry more radial load, period. Straight cuts and a method to retain the crank in its axial position are compulsory for running roller bearings. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=147971

Received my red c/f radiator shroud the other day, thanks for the excellent service JD. I'm in China on business at the moment, will fit it on the bike and post some pics on my return.

I agree with Magz; that is nice work for sure, but would look better if all the cross braces were welded flush, especially the one on the kick-up. Just my opinion though, please don't take it the wrong way. I already have a set of IMS kick-ups on my bike otherwise I would be in line for a set of these.

You do tidy work! Can't see the other photo's without logging into your account.

Most of the auto parts shops carry them

That should work. However: 1) You have to use the M14 adapter and this could interfere with the tank, meaning you have to remove the tank to do the test. 2) The adapter will likely increase the volume of the combustion chamber (when compared to the volume when the sparkplug is in place) Should still be good for baseline comparisons though. 3) Typically the range of compression in banshees will be between 100psi to 180psi, the graduations on the gauge in the pic are too large imo, making it difficult to see small variations. I bought a similar one from an autoparts shop and fitted a proper gauge. Was not expensive.

I got mine directly from Jerry through the pm system.

Thanks for putting that picture in mind... lol

Vryheid KZN, 'n paar japies hier! Kyk ook bietjie op extreme2strokes.com vir 'n bietjie local inligting.

Everyone should know how to re-seat a popped tire bead back onto the rim using flammable liquid and a spark. Search the net for a video, it's easier than you think and a very useful trick.

haha true that, we only have haggard rocks and shit in Africa...I've smashed through two sets of sprocket guards already, looking for something different...

IMS/Roll design...

Found a couple more photo's on my pc. This is what you get, forgot to take a pic of the bottom. One more!

You talking about these? I also like the design a lot.

Sounds ok, some dish washing liquid/water solution brushed onto the seals and case mating surface could show where the leaks are in the form of bubbles. Worth a quick check before you pack away all the equipment.