dajogejr

Well...unfortunately the poor, kept down by the man piece of shit trash is back. grandnational is his name now. And whaddya know, pulling the same BS as before. Here ya go. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=124479

The problem is you fucked over a member here, and one of my brothers that I ride with personally. It's the same as fucking over me. Not only did you not do shit about it...all you did is run your mouth. So much you got the boot and came back on here (which...you said you didn't need to do, big balla, big bank) under a different name pulling the same bullshit as before. Did you fix the mess you had with Damian? (Sheefreak)? No...didn't think so. So you changed your name but not your game....

There's the regular and lite version (which both need an extended cover) and an undercover version. My understanding from Kevin is the Lite version is not machined as much or as pretty as the regular version. Physically, it's the same, but he doesn't put the baby smooth machine or anodize them, etc.... I could be wrong...but that was my understanding when I talked to him before I bought mine. Then again, it's been a couple years...

Kimbo himself is pretty humble and I give him credit for going on TUF and earning a spot in the UFC. The man was as big as day...and got smoked by a no one, which caused that brand of MMA to fold. I think at best the only thing he'll ever be is a 50/50 fighter. He'll pull out an impressive victory now and again, but...I don't think he'll ever be sensational or hold a belt. That being said...his entourage are ghetto ass hood rat thugs. When he got KTFO by Seth P, his entourage were totally ghetto, running their mouth...and crying because their gravy trail meal ticket just got smoked. Without them, Kimbo is an ok guy. I just hope after that loss...the media hype dies down. The best fighters have proved themselves time and time again...and they didn't do it by being Youtube back yard brawl sensations. Brock Lesnar...should he get well and fight again...is another one. Big mouth. But I actually like Brock. He's an animal. But put him against Fedor now....not years from now when/if they fight, and he'd get schooled. However, that would be the biggest PPV ticket ever in MMA, period. Before Brock handled Randy...that would've been the draw... Too bad Fedor's management will probably never let this happen until he's past his prime. Sorry for getting off the Kimbo Topic...bored at work, just ranting a little...

Ryan, What is done to the transmission and clutch? That's a crucial point in your pricing...stock or lockup with override??

Loco... If this guy was banned as Utley Banshee I don't know why you're giving him another chance. This lying tool bag is a big bank wanna be balla.. Truth is he is a piece of shit lying sack of fuck. How basic is it to check to see if a set of carbs fit a set of intakes you're selling with them? I thought you didn't need this site or any other site, cause you got so much mad loot you piece of shit. That's obvious by the fact you came back around to pedal shit and had to change your name. Ban this thief and clown Loco....

I have the light model as well....

Hey slick, for those of us that are uninformed and misunderstood...how did this bike turn out? Did you need John's help to start or get running any of the other bikes you've purchased? I don't wring daddy's pants dry, I work and pay for all my own shit...so is it ok if I inquire how this went?

Learn to read the heat the plug is making if you're not getting color. But I get get color even on methanol and benoil/castor oil.

You guys and your ball talk.... As said, the outer plate stays put, the inner plate with the balls, ramps and grooves pushes against the clutch pack. I've used one for two years now Tyler... I have to be honest, no difference between the two for our sized motors. The slingshot is known to hold bigger motors better. I tried my slingshot with a single row of balls per groove (instead of two) and my clutch on my 10 mil cub slipped big time. The next pass I put them all back in. There are two ways to look at this. The slingshot is heavier than the DD style. That can either limit or hold back the RPM...OR...it can help get the power to the ground by now allowing the motor to spin as quickly and as violently. In all reality, my 10 mil cub runs the same numbers as other 10 mils done by A&S with DD Style lockups. Kevin Gigot offered me a smoking deal on one a few years ago to try out, and since it gets the job done AND he's a sponsor over on ATVDragracers....I have no reason to take it out and switch.

I personally don't see any point in going to E85 other than you can get it at the pump for 20% cheaper than premium fuel. You don't get the power advantage of Methanol, yet you still have to purge a bike and run a methanol/ethanol compatible oil. You only net a 7-8% increase in power from race gas to methanol...so what is E85, 3-4%? Why not go all the way?

I would go cub over super cub. I haven't seen the super run any more impressive than the cub, and with the super cub you're going to have to buy more expensive pistons (72mm) and the head is it's own design, it is not a standard banshee bolt pattern. If you were going to go 72mm super cub, I'd rather go 10mm cub with a 68 mm piston if it were me...

brand new OEM they're expensive here too. Get a used one on Ebay....save your money. Without a dyno...no one can tell you which, if any of the curves, suit your motor the best. It'll be real world testing...and I'd bet you could barely feel the difference between the three curves. When I ran one at the track, any of the curves preset from the factory didn't net anything different in my timed 300 foot runs. So...I stand by my statement of unless you have the tools to tune it/program it, it's a waste of money. A stock used OEM CDI and timing plate are a better investment. No one in the US buys brand new OEM CDIs from the dealer, they're about 300 to 500 bucks as well. But you can get them for less than 100 on ebay...

Just to clarify a few things. A standard Direct Drive style lock up does NOT replace the pressure plate, nor does a standard style slingshot type lockup. (I have and have run both). Gigot makes a lockup, slingshot style, that fits under your stock clutch cover which does replace the pressure plate. That being said. You don't need one. You can get a clear cover (if you're stuck on the looks) but I would strongly advise against getting the lockup itself. Personally, I think it'd be a waste of a few hundred bucks for the cover, but that's just me. Get your stock side cover stripped and polished, then get a billet water pump cover if you're on this about the looks. For a woods banshee, polish and chrome doesn't exactly make good sense, however. With a lockup, you are putting max pressure on the clutch, which can make shifting gears near impossible at full throttle. With your mods, a few stiffer springs and GOOD clutch components should be just fine. The swingarm pivot bolt is probably the toughest bolt on the bike. Here's what we used to do...for trail riding. drill and tap both ends. Put a allen head screw plug in one end, put a zerk fitting in the other. Put the pivot bolt in a drill press and vice, and drill 3-4 small holes down the length of it so you can grease it. A trail bike that gets muddy/dirty/exposed to water needs to have the pivot tube greased more freequently. This made it a snap. get the shocks revalved for your weight/style. You already have almost 3 gallons of fuel at your disposal, you're running a single carb. IMO...a 5 gallon tank is unnecessary unless you know you're going on long extended rides where it's a must. That would have to be one helluva loop on a single carb. They are big, bulky....and...ugly.

Is it possible you swapped carb bowls from left to right/vice versa?

My buddy has a powder coated A Arm hanging in his garage to remind him of this very reason. Do Not PC a stock a arm. When people don't believe him, he tells them to go pick it up and move the ball joint. Enough said... And this is a buddy that paints, polishes, chromes or powder coats EVERYTHING on a bike....

You could use a seal pick and go around the shift shaft, could be stuck dirt, etc., causing it not to seal right. But...if you're going to go through the trouble, replacing a few dollar part is prolly the best answer.

My opinion, get a stocker. Unless you have a dyno to tune the bike and make custom curves...a cheap timing plate will net you the same difference for less money.

Amen. I believe in the science of the carb with the slide/metering rod being in the "shit storm" instead of before it. In other words...the needle/metering rod is exposed directly to the manifold pressure, instead of in front of it like a D slide, flat or round slide carb. On a trail/duner bike, needle selection and adjustment is even more critical....not many have the patience for it. And needles/metering rods are not cheap, mind you. But if you have the cabbage and are good at tuning or have a dyno near by to get your guideline/basline...I say go for it...

No Offense Wildcard, but slopoke you need to contact Kevin @ HJR and ask him what to do. Normally, if you port a set of stockers for a dune port they're too far gone (too much metal removed) to report them for a 4 mil stroker. That's not gaurenteed to be the case, however... Call HJR first...my advice.

Simple...because even with the power jet you still have a main jet to worry about, a pilot jet and an air screw. Lectrons have none of these. I will agree with BigBoybanshee, if you're not drag racing...don't do it. I have a set for two years now with zero problems. I take that back, I did have my fuel pump overflowing one of the carbs after the first year. I am lazy and instead of putting a dual feed pingle in place and putting gravity needle and seats, I just went to a smaller pump. Once I got my carbs dialed in (took about half the day at the track, being a Lectron newbie) I've had to adjust them twice. Once when I got my motor back from HJR (his porting on my cub likes more fuel) and once for the last race this year in October (it was easily 30 degrees colder than our normal racing temps)... Otherwise...you can ask anyone at the track, my bike is always crisp, strong running and consistent. That being said...you'll get more support from Keihins or Mikunis. They're all good carbs. I really like my Lectrons, easy to tune and understand...and as I've said before, you not only have to understand how the metering rod works, but you MUST have the right one. Otherwise, you'll throw them in the trash. As far as the quality/hardware, mine are a few years old from Packard, top notch. I did replace the three screws up top with some phillips...but that fix did cost me about 75 cents. I hate slotted screws, they should be outlawed... I've had mine two years, love 'em...you'd have to pry them from my cold dead fingers. But...they are not for everyone...especially if you're not very good with carbs/engine tuning to begin with (Not pointed at anyone, just a broad statement...) camatv and one other guy told me in a single paragraph how to tune them (they both practically said the same thing, word for word). They're easy peezy lemon squeezy.

I agree. I heat cylced my motor this year on purge gas @ 28:1 4-5 times then took it to the track on methanol and beat on it all year. I smoked my crank last race of the year (it was way past due) but the pistons still look great...and the motor is on it's third year on the nikasil....

Unless you're using Crisco Or Mazola, type of oil is hardly, if ever the failure. Lack of oil...sure as hell is though.

You lost me on that one...

No offense, I'd be amazed if they got the Iphone. I don't know if they're big enough to afford it from Apple, and their coverage map is spotty at best. http://www.metropcs.com/coverage/ However, after looking at their pricing...WOW...cheap. I have a paid for work phone, but I travel all throughout the state, including Northern Michigan... I couldn't do it. But if you're covered in the area...DAMN they're cheap.