dajogejr

You won't feel one jet size, but you'll be able to tell by the color/thickness of the ring on the plug.

It's not an argument by any means, merely a discussion...fueled by each other's opinion, nothing wrong with that. Noss and Chariot both make fine products!

If the bike is jetted right on the main it will leave a smoke ring on the base of the porcelain from a proper WOT chop. The rest of the porcelin nose will take time to color...trust me. If it's white down at the base after a warmed up WOT run on fresh plugs, then yes...you are lean. But don't mistake the rest of the porcelain for the small ring you want to see at the base.

A rich bike is blubbery, like it won't take the throttle... A lean bike sounds "revvy" or tinny...like it's revving just no power there. a lean bike revs quicker usually too...too quick.

Every bike is different. Every stock motor with bolt ons, pipes and pods have been just that, 320 to 340 mains. As long as you follow this properly, whatever the main jet ends up being is it...but I'd much rather start a little rich and buy a few plugs vs. a top end... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

The pod filters and aftermarket pipes increase your need for jetting. The 55 degrees and 1400 feet of elevation cancel each other out. You could very well be ok on the pilot, etc. But putting around compared to a WOT run under a load is different than putting around. Do a proper WOT plug check. Better safe than sorry... 35 pilots are WAY to big. Try the stock 25 pilots with .5 to 1.0 out on the air screw....

With pod filters and 55 degree weather, I'd say 320 to 340... And ditto on the pilots., 27.5

There ya go...I'm in the minority...

Andy, Most of that is personal opinion which we're all certainly entitled to. Regarding the coolant volume. Do you have any 100% concrete proof that one head design offers improved cooling than another? I've heard, read, heard, read...etc. Never has anyone given me concrete proof... I disagree, (again, purely opinion) about pinching the oring for the dome. I've found the Chariot easier to work with, and less Orings to actually pinch than if you had a top and bottom shell (more Orings). I just use RTV or grease on the rings (three per side) and put spark plugs in the domes, domes in the head, lower it all on. The best advice I could give anyone is to stretch the dome oring a little for the big bore domes. Just a little, not much, so they don't "roll" over the lip.

That phone is Sweet. Faster than shit. I'll never own one, I don't like touch screen...but I used it for about an hour yesterday, email, surfing the web, etc. 5MP camera takes nice pictures as well. Here's that commercial Tyler, comical!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YCbYTrYD5y8

Our Construction guy is getting the Droid. I'll literally have it in 1/2 an hour. I have to set it up tonight and tomorrow for our company email, etc. You bet I'll be test driving it a bit... Loco, you hear ATT is trying to sue Verizon for the "we have a map for that" about ATT's shitty 3G coverage? Hilarious.....

Sonny... It might have run that at Gilbert, but I know what it ran at Ionia, I was there...and watched him make the pass. I honestly don't remember if it was 3.44 or 3.54...I know it was one of those two.

BBIII forgot to tell you all his wife weighs 38.90 pounds and he imported her from Ethiopia... J/K. Good luck to ya B!! Somebody needs a drag race beginner motor that will run with some much bigger dogs!!!

I have the Chariot Head and throttle. I've got a few buddies that run his intakes and his bearing support. His products are top notch. His service is phenomenal. I don't know alot about metal or coatings, but I'm going to assume TiN means Ti Nitrade coating. That's the same stuff the factory teams use for the forks and shock shafts for supercross bikes. I know Brandon @ Mull Engineering makes impellars as well as Chariot. I've used neither, but if I needed one I'd be hitting them up....

I thought it was kind of odd, gregrob smoked a set of cases and bigred had a mint set freshly sandblasted for sale on PS...why wouldn't you help your buddy out??

Replace the whole tranny after a shelling like that. A used trans is 100 to 140 bucks.

Pretty tight knit group here Alf, and as said you are the new guy... I've noticed some smoking deals you've posted, your time will come. Work the boards, PM members, the more members who buy from you start spreading the word. Do something to distance yourself from the others.... What your doing is very tough. I tried to do something similar in a much smaller scale, this economy is just terrible and you're in a cut throat business... Just keep plugging away!

So get busy on a better design already, will ya?

Amazing how they magically found it... Get your money back now. Both my RS stators failed just short of the year mark. Luckily, the second time I had a spare OEM stator (thanks to NYUK) on a timing plate...so I just swapped it at the track. Get your refund while they still have it instead of being stranded and broke down later.

The stock motor mounts are designed to hold 35 or so HP. They do a fine job of that. Triple or quadruple that....no so much anymore. When you hammer the gas, the sprocket side will get sucked back by the chain toward the rear axle...this prevents that. Yep, we all run it...

Yep...I'm too lazy to go in the garage and take a fresh pic, I'm on a vaca day dammit...LOL. Here's a pic from the back 1/4 of my bike, you can see it pretty clearly and get the idea.

Did you put the rubber plugs back in the bottom of the cylinders? Unless those are bad, it's only going to leak coolant into the cylinders from the top (barring and cracks in the cylinders/water jackets internally, of course). You probably have a dip or uneven spot on top of the cylinder or the bottom shell of the head. before I assemble a motor, I take a medium grit wet sand paper on a sanding block and remove the head studs. I go in a figure 8 5-10 times and then look at the deck surface (top of the cylinder) if I can see a scratching all the way around, I'm good. If I see an area that is not being scratched, I sand lightly till I do. I take the domes out of the head and do the same thing with the bottom shell of the head. if either of those surfaces are not flat, you're fighting a losing battle. Usually it won't break an oring unless you've got it pretty warmed up and a load and RPMs to it. Just warming it up or idling in the garage won't break an oring unless the head/deck surface is WAY out of whack. I built a cub motor 4 years ago that had a dip in the center of the cylinders and a base gasket leak. Some times...you just learn the hard way....LOL.

Do you have a link to what you're talking about? never heard of 'em. are you prepared to purchase new shocks to go along with the arms...?

If you sent it via the USPS without a tracking or delivery confirmation number, yep...here's the creek...here's you with a paddle. RM stator is using the same parts/source as Ricky Stator. China. Their merchandise is junk, just as Ricky Stator's products now are. In their heyday, when people actually cared and took pride in this stuff...you couldn't beat his prices or quality. Now, they're not worth the box they came in. After two RS stators went bad on my drag bike (yeah, drag bike, no trails, no mud, no bouncing around or jumping it), I threw the second bad one in the trash and went back to OEM. No issues since. Since Chariot makes a nice billet timing plate for 15 bucks more than a cast Ricky Stator timing plate, I'd have no reason to buy anything from RS ever again.

Keep in mind, a lot of my advice and ideas are for bada, who's having crank and/or vibration issues. We run engine stays on stock cylinder drag bikes. I consider then an absolute must. I have a 1/2" thick stator cover, I bolt my stay from the upper chain roller mount (stock frame bike) right to the stator cover. I used to run it to the cases over the sprocket, but I got my cases with one whack. After my buddy bit it on the ice two years ago, it chunked more of the case so I've got nothing left there to work with. Take a measurement, use two heim joints, left and right thread...and a small swaged rod. Drill and tap accordingly. It should NOT be tight. You should be able to move the stay with your hand or rotate the heims once it's tightened down to the bike. I know that's hard to think about...but think about a heim joint. It twists a little bit even with a bolt through it. You should be able to twist it that little bit when tightened down... Pour in is the way to go. It just fills the gaps better, period. Some have tried to weld cases...and the issue is they warp. It can be done...but it's not for everyone. Dan @ A&S uses the pour in epoxy. I'm not an epoxy fan, I like welds. But, I also have a bro in law that has been in the family biz of welding for over 40 years. He actually went to school for it and metalurgy, he's not a back yard buzz box arc welder, and his work shows. I absolutely wouldn't run a bike without cushions for the basket. That's probably a big part of the issue right there. Something has to take that shock out of the crank to the transmission, without cushions, that's metal on metal and something's gotta give.