dajogejr

No, but I'm fairly certain Clymers does. If not...Tim from Titan can probably rattle off the measurement from memory. Keep in mind there's a LOT of flex in stock cases with this kind of power as well. That flex leads to give and clearances that aren't supposed to be there. Did anything else in the motor let go other than the trans? Crank bearing, rod bearing? How did the pistons look? The bore? The head? Any scaring or rubbing going on?

I run a TZ on the PTO side and OEM on stator side. I run stock helical cut gears. If you run a TZ on both PTO and stator side, you really should have straight cut gears. I honestly don't believe in straight cuts for smaller motors. But you guys are probably at the point they'd help with reliability if you don't already have them. I've run stock bearings on stator side the life of my 10 mil. You're fine with OEM on motors of this size...PTO is where I'd go at least maxload if not TZ. I don't believe in cryo treating a trans either. mainly because not many people do it correctly. There is a process that "shot peens" the trans I've always wanted to try....but I've never had a trans problem on my bike...so, why fix what ain't broke. I can not remember what the name of the process is called, but it basically kinda shot peens the metal and makes it stronger.

Other builders have put bigger bores and bigger strokes on stock cases with stock trannies. Who did the machining on the cases? Did they use mixable expoxy (2 parts mixed together to harden) or pour in? Or did they weld the cases? If so, were the cases heated up prior to welding? Stock transmissions are strong if left stock. They also just shift like shit under power. Do you have an engine stay, solid motor mounts or a center bearing support? If you still have it together, try and pull up on the chain. Does it cause the motor to shift in the frame? Are you using a chain tensioner? Are the forks in good condition? Did you break the tranny down and inspect the shafts for wear? Spin the bearings? Check the drum for any rough spots? Make sure all sliders on the gear work and engage/disengage? Any other mods on the tranny?

You definition of narrow power band and mine may differ. The bigger the motor, generally speaking the more torque which makes a narrow power band seem less noticeable. Bada... First thing I'd look for in your bike is the cases and the crank. It's possible the bore is out of align or sloppy for the crank and/or the tranny. It don't take much wobble or clearance to start shitting 2nd gears out. I know their full billet trans eats shift forks like a fat kid on a cupcake. I've not heard....however, that the billet 2nd alone will do that. A bad shaft, fork or worn case could be the reason 5th got eaten too... Or a poorly cut tranny (not accusing, just throwing out ideas.) Now, everyone thinks the billet 2nd gears are drop in, they're not. They have to have the matching/mating gear backcut to match. That could be a problem?? I'd also look at your crank. Have someone that knows what they're doing, perhaps crankworks or twister, check the balance on it. Most of the time, you get it to within .003 to .005 of being true, weld it, done. Truing the crank does not check balance. That could explain the violent shaking, etc.

I call a spade a spade, and a fat douche a fat douche. The shoe fits ass clown, and you're wearing both of them. All you did was try to poke at Fast, you know it, we know it...your bluff was called. You couldn't explain the difference between black and white, moon and stars...BigRed's nut sack and his taint... Just because I can type fast and speak clearly, and am willing to help people...oh well, I guess you wouldn't understand. Somewhere, there's a box of Twinkies with your name on it...get to it. Nom Nom Nom Nom...mmm...good. Good to see BigRed come around and eat his words too. All he did was talk about how SLOW that FAST motor was, and the truth finally comes out. A drag bike is a drag bike...purpose built. Of course it had a narrow powerband...that's how you make the most power. It's not rocket science... It's a wonder both of you can tie your shoes and function.

Well brotha, don't know how far you want to travel, but Lapeer drag way is open till the end of the month, test and tune on the weekends. Check it out. You roll out this way, you better hit me up. Evan was just up there with some work cars testing a few weeks ago. http://www.lapeerdragway.com/

Hey...Smart Guy, news flash. I've been here since February of 2005. You've been here Feb. of 2008. I've got 15K posts, you've got less than 1K. I'm NOT trying to insinuate that I know more than anyone with less posts or less tenure, my point is people know me and know how I am...I have been around long enough. I've maintained then as I do now...if you don't like me (and this goes for anyone), fuck off, I could care less. I sleep fine at night. If you're one of the many friends I've made on the site, because of the site or somewhere else and caused them to join the site...you know how I am in person and on all the forums, not just this one. And once again, you're a liar. You said you're not going to participate in this shit talk....and yet here you are, running off at your chins...once again. I've got a life, it's a fine one...and it suits me just fine. Thanks for your concern. So you want creamy or extra chunky?

That's too bad. I honestly would take a shit in a box, with or without peanuts....and send it to you on my dime. Since you had the nads to call me fat, only to find out you haven't passed up the chow line at all in your life...just makes you look like an even bigger clown on all fronts. You did in fact, like usual, try to take a stab at FAST. This is what you said, word for word. "It would wheelie in 3rd gear at will whereas the old FAST drag ported engine the same chassis (100hp mind you) would only MAYBE wheelie in 1st in sand if you got the weight transfer just right." Weight transfer just right?? You've got more than enough weight to transfer...get off the handlebars sissy and sit on the seat. Nowhere does that say anything about tires, traction, etc. You just called out on it, making you look like a clown once again...and now you're trying to back peddle like usual. If the twister motor is in the same chassis, unless your dumb ass was running 4 paddles...it would wheelie the same. It probably didn't have the torque of a bigger bore motor...duh. Glad you figured that out...might be the smartest thing you've ever said here. But bottom line is you got called out on an attempted stab...and now you're making excuses. Seriously, I can send you a Baby Ruth (with nuts) or a Butterfinger (without). Your call...fatty.

10 mil stroke by 75mm piston by my "fuzzy" math...

You're going to get that noise from clamp on air filters. But I think you need to do a compression test and a leak down test to get a handle where you're at.

Put that up on CL if you haven't already homie... Two seasons that will be helpful for. Hunting and golf. And around here...firearm is right around the corner...

These guys are professional riders and tuners JD...just look at all their success. I'm 250 and had a cleaned up 4 mil cub putting down around 95 HP give or take. It would wheelie at will. Now I know fatty has a few cheeseburgers in his gullet over me, but it just goes to show you what circus clowns they are. If you have a 100HP bike that you can only get to wheelie sometimes in first gear, you are a tard. Plain and simple...period.

What are ALL of your mods, elevation, temps and rider weight? Start there. You shouldn't rev it out when it first starts. But it is liquid cooled, a blip of the throttle here and there to circulate water is fine, notice I said blip.

Too bad you guys are such ass clowns.... I'd get you a trans dirt cheap and a set of cases. But I'd rather piss in a bottle and send it to you and watch you fail yet again... Maybe you guys should send it to either HJR or to Firehead since they are the only people you guys can actually get a motor from that runs right.

I agree. It's always better to buy a matched set. You can roll the dice and mis-match, but it's not worth the gamble to save a few bucks IMO.

OK fine... let me just brush MJ off my sack, that'll make room for you loco.

If you have holes in the stinger tube core (in the middle of the silencer) leave the packing in. The ONLY reason to run pipes with stinger tubes (NOT silencers without packing) is to hear your bike better for racing, to not miss shift points, hear if it's lean, etc. There is NO performance to be gained by removing the packing other than the half pound of weight you may loose. And as said...if you ride in an area that is touchy about sound, or has mandates for it, that's an even better reason to leave it packed. No bike with silencers I've ever seen (Toomey, PC, FMF, Trinity, CPI, Shearer, rockets, PT and DG) has a straight through pipe, they all have holes so the packing can deaden the sound. I have one buddy that welded straight through pipes on his out of frame Shearer drag pipes. It is obnoxiously loud...louder than stinger tube bikes....but that's only because the original pipes cracked/broke and he didn't want to buy new silencers. I had stinger tubes on my bike for one race. Put the silencers back on right after that. No performance gain...only sound. And I run at closed course drag race tracks...not public riding areas.

I usually derail the chain on purpose a few times to break off all that unnecessary metal, it saves weight you know... Seriously, if it's just a crack, brake clean the hell out of it, rough it up a little with a file or sand paper, and jbweld it. Chain Whack is actually a banshee phrase....

I laid the challenge down for Kevin earlier this year and sent my motor to him. Please, no one take offense by what I'm about to say...read it all. On a stock cylinder stock port to a nicely ported stock cylinder, you don't have to do a TON of work to get them to run well. You can take a stock motor and go from 30ish HP stock to 60 HP EASY and it will obviously be night and day different. I'm a little different. As you know, I drag race only. My bike has been a healthy runner for 07 and 08. Never the very fastest, but it more than holds it's own and has been just flat out reliable, easy to ride and fun. Everyone knows what my bike runs and damn near everyone has ridden my bike at one time or another. I set that all out before him, and he guaranteed I'd happy and tell the difference with his work. He couldn't have been more right. The bike went faster for me this year and more consistently than it ever has. I did waste a crank bearing the last race of the year, but just before it did that it went it's fastest pass in Michigan ever. It was a 3 year old used crank...and I beat on it...it was due. I'm sending my motor back to Kevin soon for some more work. Just as soon as I get off my lazy duff. Now that season is over and it's getting cold....I'm losing motivation. Here's what really got me. His 3 week turn around from CA to MI was really 3 weeks. Not 2 months of promises and excuses. 3 weeks. Including shipping back via ground. Pound for pound I'll put my motor against anybody's out there, the big guys...A&S, Titan, K&T, etc. Put mine in the same or similar chassis they run with similar jockey weights, it may not beat them every time, but it will run right with them. Thanks HJR...

I've used both NOSS and Chariot. Dave Noss is a great guy who will help you out on a second's notice. Jerry @ Chariot puts out a lot of great products and is a fellow MI guy as well. I currently use the Chariot head because of two main reasons. Functionality and looks. It has less Orings to begin with, comes with nice brass washers and heavy duty 14mm chrome acorn nuts...and is one piece instead of two. In my opinion...and it's only my opinion, I like the looks better as well. His chrome is top notch. Either way, you're making a good choice. Both sponsors of the HQ, both very helpful guys with great products. But you can only run one head on your bike at a time....so you have to choose... Unless you want to buy one of each and make them both happy....

Oh hell yes, I'll take it...LOL. When you know a bike is A LOT faster than yours and you can't hear/see them coming at 280 feet, you know something went wrong. I let out at the very end and almost ran right on my dial time, so I was on a good pass and would've broke out if I didn't let out.

I raced Rob Earl (RDZ Racing) on his personal 14 or 18mm DMX bike and beat him. My bike runs 4.2s, his was either a 3.40 bike or a 3.50 bike. He got sideways off the line and almost hit the wall and had to let out...and didn't get back in. It was a bracket race and I was on my game...earlier this year at Ionia. That's about the same spread as me racing a 450R or YFZ with a pipe and air filter...over half a second difference which is huge in 300 ft.

Actually....wait till next year when the Curve 2 comes out. All the good stuff of the Tour without the price increase. WiFi, 3G, more memory, track pad instead of trackball and it'll be the budget based blackberry. We have hosted exchange (business email but we don't have it in-house) with a Blackberry relay server attached. I get my email on my phone most of the time quicker than outlook. it's a good and bad thing. I have a habit of replying right away...but, that's easier on a full computer...if I just wanna wait. My rep brought one by today. Despite how sleek it looks, it's a brick. I'm talking heavy...which tells me it's constructed right. It still had the cellophane on it and wasn't activated, so...I didn't see any reason to turn it on and test drive it yet. I'll hit the store and try out a live one.... There is one bad thing about the heat activated phone. A coworker had one like that before, heat activated. Pressing it against his cheek cause all kinds of issues. Now...there may be setting to lock the screen when it's on a call, but he's kinda savvy, I'd be surprised if he didn't figure it out.

At 70 to 100 MPH nothing short of metal protection would've stopped that. He had insulated carhartts on. You know how tough the material is of Carhartt overalls, his looked like wet shredded paper towel after that. He had cuts from his ankle to his asshole, literally... That was the last time my bike was on the ice, and it might be the last time ever... We all take risks just riding period, but the images in my head when that happened bothered me for quite some time. When we're at the track and he's got shorts on...those images come back like it happened yesterday... One of our friends said, well...looks like his modeling career is over... He's a trooper though...he's just a good story to tell now from the scars.

Frank did get vengence, however... A few months later, I sent my bike down for a buddy to just ride at Planet Sand 2008. Frank jumped on it and ended up taking 2nd in the class 0-475cc and took home some cash. That doesn't remove the scars...but it helped, a little