dajogejr

Talk to your builder. He might tell you a lightened flywheel with his porting and CPI pipes is not a good thing for duning...(Make sure you mention all of that to him) You paid to have him port your motor. Kevin always answers the phone when I call, talk your motor and what you want to do over with him instead of most of us just guessing. And since Kevin's a California guy....he knows where you ride, too...

1-5 N down dunable in my 10 mil cub...3 years, and it still shift like butter. TONZ of passes on my bike... You still can NOT backload these transmissions like crazy...they will wear out sooner. But yes, you can pull the clutch and downshift and get back in it.

Bore X Bore X Stroke X an engineering constant / number of cylinders. I can't find that constant for the life of me. But here's an easy to use calculator. Use millimeter as the unit of measurement. http://www.bgsoflex....splacement.html Wait, .0031416 is the number. So, I have a 68 bore cub with a 64 mm stroke (10 mil cub) 68X68X64X.0031416 /2 = 464.8 cc...or a 465 cub as they're called.

I wish my buddy, who bought the bike from the dealership in 1996, told me he used future prototype carbs on the bike when I bought his 96 from him back in 2005. I would've had it equipped with a Mr. Fusion as well. Seriously, I've converted a shit ton of stock carbs to non-TORS. I've never seen that tube in both bowls.

ON stock carbs both carbs don't have that overflow tube.

I always tighten mine down to 10 ft. lbs in sequence, then 15, then 20 and finally 22.

Here's the problem, one if not more than below: Bad Ground Shorted wire Bad coil or end caps Bad stator (Ricky Stator) Bad Flywheel (If you take it off and shake it, it'll sound like a maraca...the magnets inside are broken up) When you've gone all over the jet range like you have, it still runs like shit, it's one of two things. Air leak or electrical. You covered the air leak. It's electrical.

Unless you want to personally buy someone a motor, that's bad advice. What was your UCCR for that motor? Compression ratio, not cranking PSI dictate the need for higher octane, along with timing. You could have a 13.5:1 motor with 150 PSI is the exhaust port are raised enough, still need race fuel but not according to the "cranking compression" theory....

The single tube on the bottom of the carbs is not an overflow, it's a drain. That honestly...never gets used. Take the bowl off, one carb at a time so you don't accidentally swap bowls (there is a right and left bowl) Remove the screw all the way, and clean the bejesus out of the bowl, the hole and the drain screw. Then...as said, check to see why the fuel valve isn't shutting off/sealing properly. You can get a used fuel valve cheap...probably less than 20 or so shipped if the valve is bad.

St. Clair Shores... Unless you're willing to go north or know someone with a lot of property, riding in MI pretty much sucks ballz now a days. Northern MI and the UP have some good riding still, and you can once again ride on the shoulder of the road...nice!

Out of frame pipes keep heat away from the motor and allow you to work on the motor easier. You'll get a few HP and ft. lbs of torque generally from OOF pipes as well, nothing that would set the world on fire. Here's their Big Bore, Small Flange out of frame pipes on a cut stock chassis, silenced, out the ignition side. I had pipes one out each side. I like two out one because if you get off the other side of the bike you don't have to worry about stepping over your pipes or getting the customary black hole on your jeans from running into your silencer...

http://www.skat-trak.com/paddletire.html

You always test a cold motor...then a warm motor. If there's not much difference between the two...that actually usually states a motor in decent health. if There's a large number in difference, that signals problems. Lastly, if you pour a cap full of oil through the spark plug hole(s) and crank it over by hand a couple times, then test again...if the compression jumps up considerably that signifies a worn motor as well. To answer your question, a compression tester will not show a leak. It has a check valve in it. Once it has pressure, it will stay on the gauge until you release it via the push button on the valve. To check for a leak, you need a leak down tester. Do a search. You can make your own...or buy one already done. I got one off a guy in MI that works flat out awesome. His name is Bob, and he ports out of his house/garage (like most builders) 517-388-3662

Nice one. I use the Nology Coil and hotwires too. Are you using the B8ES plugs, NOT the BR8ES plugs? With that much cranking compression, you should be able to run a normal gas gap on the plug, .028 to .030. Flush the gas tank and try a different, non-castor based oil at 32:1. Are you holding the throttle wide open for more than a few seconds? Stock carbs? might be time to upgrade to a pingle fuel valve as well. If you've replaced all the ignition components with stock, OEM items (not Ricky Stator Junk)...I think it's a fuel issue too. Either you don't have a rich enough mixture (jetting sizes) or you're running the bowls dry (pingle valve needed...)

With a bike setup equally as well a 10 mil would go high 9's. A 10 mil vs. stock stroke is definately worth a couple tenths, especially in a long run like that. Then again, I don't think Tedder has broke 10.00 yet (Damn close) and that man is flying on the pavement...and I think he has a 4 or 7 mil.

Scotty R (Scotty Too Hotty). I asked him for a few pics. He's not on the Internet too much...thought I'd help a brotha out.

Posting for a buddy. Big Bore, two out left side (Ignition/stator side) big bore, small flange shearer drag pipes with stinger tubes. They are powdercoated black. $400 plus shipping. Hit me up...I'll get you in touch with him. Fellow racer and friend whom I'll personally vouch for.

Exactly... Even a BONE STOCK bike should start and run fine with +4. I'd still be looking elsewhere.

Damian... Quick snapshot of what he sold you as promised vs. what you got and how much it set you back to make it right for all to read please.... I remember bits and pieces of the deal...but not the whole thing. The previous thread is a lot to read through... Cliff notes, please..

I've seen stockers separate with just bolt ons. With an HJR dune/play port, it's probably safe to say you doubled your HP or close to it give or take. Yes. Stock cranks care tough as nails, but...they need to be welded to prevent separating. They are splined, so it's very, VERY unlikely for them to go out of phase, but they do separate, then it gets ugly. Good thing is stock cranks are very cheap....the parts that it damages if it separates usually aren't collectively. I would get it welded when you can...sooner rather than later.

I run that perch and have the lever with the bearing in it as well. That coupled with a new cable or cleaned and lubed cable will do WONDERS for your clutch pull. I replace my clutch cable every year or every other year...on a drag bike with a lockup I've found they stretch a little more than a regular setup. I can't tell you how nice a cleaned and oiled perch and new cable feel. Like a new 125cc dirt bike....!!!

I know this don't help much, but a buddy of ours has powder coated black, ignition side small flange, big bore, stinger Shearers for sale. He's not looking for trades. Just thought I'd throw that out there.

IF the squish is .015...the motor will make a real nice noise for a few seconds before it grenades itself. AIR GAP between the flywheel and pickup should be .015 to .020. Squish should be at or around .045 (that is where the squish band of the dome and piston nearly meet..and the clearance between them) With 20cc domes, at or near sea level cranking compression on a healthy motor should be 160ish or so... Make sure you're testing it properly. dco...read above, he's got a single carb setup.

You guys ever leak down, compression test and squish test this motor?

Is this a running issue or a starting issue? If it's fuel delivery, pour a little premix gas into the back of each carb. If it starts, it's a carb/fuel delivery issue. If not, it's a spark issue. As long as you put the top end back together, and it has a reasonable amount of compression...it should at least start. If it doesn't start with a little fuel in the carbs, remove the end of the plug wires, trim back 1/2 inch, then replace the spark plug caps with aftermarket NGKs (about 5 or 6 bucks each). If it still doesn't start, replace the Ricky Stator Stator with a stock OEM one, used...of course. Stock coils hardly ever go bad...but the factory end caps do. Replacing them with NGK caps is one of the first things you should look at. Does this bike have a single or dual carb setup...me confused?