dajogejr

I'd second that hands down.

No one is going to swap you Lectrons for PWKs. If they do...let me know. PWKs are about half the price. I love my Lectrons...but there is nothing wrong with PWKs. Dan Hull, one of the premier and fastest builders on the planet will tell you PWKs are the best carb, proven...time and time again, period. Just pay to get yours converted. You just need to get a richer needle, a power jet added and drill the main and dump tube. To get a good Lectron set of carbs you'd pay more than just the price to convert yours. A setup pair of Lectrons on alky the right way is 500 or more used. New they're close to 800 or 900. You can get a brand new set of PWKs, polished and setup for alky for less than a used set of Lectrons. You'll need money and/or parts to swap for some PWKs to Lectrons.... The good thing about Lectrons vs. PWKs is you can convert them from Gas to Alky and back very easily, and from gravity fed to fuel pump just as easy. Once you setup a set of PWKs for alky that's it. The dump tubes are not removable...

If this is your first cub IMO you are wasting your money spending money on getting them ported. Learn to tune with what you have first. Even if they do a WORLD CLASS port job, in 200 foot you'll get a tenth or so. Just because someone else runs a 3.2 doesn't mean you will. Pipes are holding you back as well as 36PJs. I'd have CPI or Shearers and 39PWKs. That 4 mil cub on alky can handle those easy. Here's the best suggestion I can tell you. Do ONE THING AT A TIME. And do it over, and over again. Look at your slips, they don't lie. One day work on the carbs and getting a good reading on your plugs. The next time work on your gearing...the next day air pressure. It's going to take 5-6 times at the track to get a good baseline tune... I also think 17cc domes are too small for a 4 mil on alky if you're less than 1,000 foot in elevation. I'd shoot for 19 or 20cc domes. What is your cranking compression, what is your Compression Ratio and your squish?

This is a tough pill to swallow...but 85HP is pushing the limits of the stock trans, even trail cut by HJR without an override. I can't see how that cut tore up the shift forks, however. In my opinion...it might be something else worn or not adjusted properly. I followed that thread about the extreme dunable. I'm surprised to hear of the troubles they're having. That cut on a tranny should shift MUCH better than a stock tranny in an 85HP, but there is no substitute for an override. I never could shift my 4 mil cub which dyno'd right where you are at, give or take a few HP. You could try an easy shift assembly, but if it trashed shift forks that bad, I think the problem might be somewhere else to be honest. Without seeing the parts AND knowing how you rode the bike, it's really hard to say! The overrides we've had come back ...just about all of them told me they backloaded the hell out of them to see how much abuse they can take. Well...it's only so much. I don't care how it's cut. You might have to throw a dunable override in there and just change the way you ride a little, less motor and more brakes to slow it down.

Gotcha. By no means am I trying to stir a pot...this is honestly the first bad thing I've heard about them, and as you said..entirely possible it's not the tranny. Andy @ M&M has had great success with them AFAIK.

Really? Interesting...

I have a dunable in my drag bike for that very reason....forgiveness.

IMO...that shouldn't have done it. However...anything is possible. You normally can get away with backloading a standard override a couple times, but if you pull it part (which, you have no choice) and a fork is bent or broke...then yep, backloading killed it. Should've gone with a dunable...

After splitting the seam on my Shearer pipes 3 times, I had a professional weld it with stainless wire.

Even if it's a brand new override (non-dunable) you should be able to backload it a couple times without breaking anything, they're NOT that temperamental...or they shouldn't be.

I'd be willing to bet you put the forks in the wrong groove upon installation...if something does't end up being broken, as said.

Notorious.... Go to the hardware store, get some good brass washers and get acorn nuts. I always had issues with mine, especially in the center studs. Put a dab of RTV on the threads, get 10 Acorn nuts, and you'll never leak up the stud again.

I think your approach, being a shop/merchant is right. The only ones that differ (at least around here, not sure about anywhere else) is gas station. They list a cash and credit price. I think this thread is more geared towards the average Joe who is not a racer or doesn't own a business. Guys/gals that just sell parts to support their next build. Let's face it...we're always in between builds...LOL. I understand your point completely, but from a casual seller, etc., I think as long as you're honest and up front it's fine.

So you'd rather the guy/gal paying by MO or check to pay the higher price? I can understand CC and merchant fees, that's part of business...and it's highway robbery. Sorry, we'll have to agree to disagree...I'm not eating fees on a few hundred dollar sale. As long as you're up front about here's the price, shipping is X and if you want to use paypal, add the fees, that's up front.

I always say add paypal fees on items over 100 bucks or so. Here's why...people pay with Money Orders, etc. Why add the fee in if they're going to send a check or MO. I don't think there's anything wrong with it. With the "gift" option on Paypal...it got much more convienient real quick. It'll only be a matter of time before they lock that down or do away with it. 3 cents on the dollar for millions of dollars worth of transactions is big bucks....

If I didn't run a Nology Coil w/ hotwires I'd have one of these...keep up the good work.

Looks good JD... I'd think drilling the frame and self tappers would cure the ground issue...no? Did I miss something?

I think Kevin and Jeff (HJR and FAST) are both site sponsors more than capable of putting a healthy 70ish HP or more to a set of 4 mil ported stockers. Keep in mind...once you get up in the ponies...you need to look at EVERYTHING...like clutch, transmission, gearing, tires. I just can't see that kind of power handling a stock length swinger very well...if it does, you're not using all the power of the motor.

I wish I could say yes...but I'm going to run my trusty old 10 mil cub again this year. We simply have a ton of 10 mil cubs around here with the guys I race with. NO real reason to go bigger. I just gotta lose the lbs.... However.... My next motor I've been saying will be a 10 mm DM. Glad Kev's got his hands on one...can't wait to see how it turns out.

I would also add...and not trying to sound like a smart ass...where and who have you raced? Most of us have taken down bigger bikes and been beat by smaller bikes at one time or another... It's rider and setup/tune when they're that close.

IMO...nothing noticeable. It will increase clutch fiber/steel life.

100% been lied to.

28:1.

Get your stock cylinders ported...you will be much happier. Do a search on this. The general consensus is Cubs are not trail friendly. On a good running 421 cub, a stock swingarm will not cut it. You'll either be frying the tires or pointed skyward...no inbetween. Cubs have a lightswitch BANG power band. You either have ALL the power or none. They are not very linear. When I first built my 4 mil cub, it was on race gas, stock carbs and T5 pipes. That's about as nuetered as you can make a cub. It still made 85HP and the power hit like a ton of bricks. I would rather see you spend the money on a well built 4 mil stock cylinder motor. It would be MUCH more user friendly for the trails and still have some ass in it to go out racing around the dunes.

Porting and cleaned up are two different things. I can tell you I have an HJR port job, my good buddy has a K&T on his 10 mil cub. If I didn't know what a stock cub port job looked like, I'd swear his K&T wasn't ported. Cleaning it up is just removing some casting flaws...but porting is changing the size, location and/or shape of the holes in the cylinder. Since your friend went to MMI, tell him to put the motor on a degree wheel and give us the durations and blow down numbers. Cubs dont' need drastic porting...they're pretty damn good out of the box.