dajogejr

Check compression and reeds....

Tell you what, look at the jetting links in the stickies across the top of the page. I think you will gain and absorb plenty of knowledge from that alone, rather than one of us retype everything all over!!

D'oh....yeah, sorry. The pilot is snug in the seat just like the main jet. The air screw is adjustable....

Well...this thread was from September...so, I hope he's found an answer by now. I'd talk to John @ DynoEdge and see what he recommends for a clutch, he's got enough knowledge and some pretty fast drag bikes over the years.... That being said, I don't think you need a lockup until you start pushing the 80HP range or so. I bought Jeff's clutch last year, beat on it...beat on it this year with my cub, and it's still doing just fine. 6HD springs make a big difference, add an extra steel in there....and a pancake bearing.... However, once you go lockup, you can go back to lighter springs for easier pull..

Hey...no prob. I wouldn't say it if I didn't just do it!! All my buddies ride 450s, and I felt like TRYING to ride some trails. Just no fun, frying the tires, a little water, and no place to really open it up. Funny...my buddy just build a BIG 564 kit for his TRX 450, and he wasn't impressed with my banshee at all with the knobbies on. We went to Silver Lake a few weeks ago, with paddles....and he admitted. He has a WHOLE NEW respect for a cub banshee....with paddles and actually getting traction. I told him wait till I get the override and I can actually shift it...LOL... I know Loco is big on those Kenda Klaws with every other row shaved, maybe he can offer insight on how these work in trails!

Without the clutch cable hooked up, push the arm it connects to under the left carb with your finger. The arrows should line up. If so....the clutch adjustment is fine. If not, you'll have to take the right side cover off, and adjust the screw/nut in the middle of the clutch basket. If it lines up properly when pushed, the only adjustment on the cable is at the lever itself. If the adjuster backs all the way out, and there is still slop, it's the wrong cable. You should have about 1/8 inch of free play at the end of the lever when it's adjusted properly and cold. Or...be able to put a nickel in between the lever and the perch before you feel it start to disengage. Hope this helps...

It will not run right with the air screws turned all the way in. Yes, they need to be turned out.

Where do you do most of your riding? Trails? T5's. Dunes/drag strip? CPIs. I think either pipe will work with an MX port job, but they both have different characteristics.... more bottom and mid from the T5, more mid and top from the CPI.

If all these fail, remove your flywheel and shake it. See if you have broken up or scattered magnets inside. My cub did the same thing. Started easy, idled fine, reved out good until it hit about 6 or 7K, then it just broke up and fell on it's face. This is after a fresh build and seal....ended up being a bad flywheel.

Do you have the TORS removed or still on? If Off, did you replace the carb caps and drill/tap your carbs for the idle screws? Plug chops won't help the idle circuit...which is the air screw and pilot jet. Try pulling the choke out half way when it's warmed up, and see if it will idle. If it does, chances are you need to turn your air screws in further, or...you need to bump the pilot up one. What are ALL your mods, including air box, no airbox, lid, etc. Riding temps and elevation. Current jetting you have in it....and the question above about the TORS.

Swap coil wires. See if the problem goes to the other cylinder...and try fresh plugs (again) once you swap the wires. That might help isolate the coil lead.

Not to sound like a jerk...but good luck getting a cub to hook up with any kind of knobbies and a swingarm... I have year old holeshot XCRs I used last year on my stock motor, piped, etc. They didn't hook up great in dirt and sand, but...on grass...they hooked like a mofo. With my +6 and cub motor, it will fry them on any surface, grass, dirt, pavement, you name it. Tried different gearing and air pressures, too. You'll be able to tool around, but forget about traction once you lay into it. Wonder how those Kenda Klaws with every other knob removed would be?

You can probably have a custom aluminum air box made up....at a good cost. Most of your top end drag style pipes, a la Shearer, CPI, etc., don't account for an airbox. Big Pipes, little room....

Yep....your engine is MORE than broken in. I had the pods and Toomey filter (foam 2:1) and they didn't make a bit of difference, one to the other. I just had 'em both for long trail rides up north last year, when the pods get dirty, I'd switch...vice versa. However..mine's no trail machine anymore. Here's the plug chop, and it ONLY dials in the mains. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

The ice drag strips I'm very interested in... Keep me posted, please!!

Put bigger mains in first. 280's are too small for no air box, even though they came in the jet kit. 320 to 340 is the norm. You said Toomey 1 into 2 high flow, I assume you mean their 1 into 2 foam filter that removes the air box all together, right? No one can tell you for certain how much timing and compression you can run for sure before needing more octane. If you leave the compression stock, and advance the timing +4...you should be ok, but...LISTEN to your motor and check the plugs often. The motor will tell you if it needs more octane..but, not for too long! Once you get the jetting spot on, you rarely have to change the jetting with a timing or compression increase...

I use a Nology coil and their hotwires....and still used BR8ES plugs. Between that and my Dyna ignition, they provide a better, hotter and quicker spark. No need to change the heat range. That being said, since I'm going to alcohol, I'll be moving to a colder plug, a BR9EGV... I think Aaron it'd be in all our best interest to let this thread die. You've shown in your last two posts you've got legitimate questions and want to learn.... I'd start a new one if you want advice, rather than digging this one up over and over again.... agreed??

Thanks, but I can't take credit for that LONG paragraph...I just copied and pasted it from the jetting faq up top on one of the stickies. (YOu all know I like to type...but, I took the shortcut this time...LOL ) :beer:

It seems he's had a change of heart, and a reckoning of sort. Fair enough to me.... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...=40#entry591099

More than fair enough... It's unfortunate things get sold off the shelf when it comes to items like these. You've come to the right place for research and answers. Mathematics and theory will only go so far. Theory is just that, if it were otherwise, it'd be called fact. No hard feelings, water under the bridge. :beer: By the way, the shops I've listed in MI are really drag banshee shops. I'm thinking if you want an all around builder, my choice would be Jeff @ FAST Racing. Sure, he builds very fast drag banshees too, but....the other guys are 99% geared towards it, and I'd say Jeff is much more well rounded.

Your manual is telling you how to adjust the jetting for the temperature, not how it effects the bike. Trust me on this one. When it gets colder, you must richen up the jetting to compensate for it, and when you go higher in elevation, you must lean it out. Here is an excerpt from the Jetting FAQ on top of this page, taken from Dirt Wheels: For our first example let's say we find a new riding area WAY up in the mountains. Our jetting is dialed in for our usual riding area which ranges from sea level to 1500 feet. Our NEW riding area starts at 4000 feet and goes up from there. Going to a higher elevation will require will require a jetting change but which way? Like our fuel density, air density can also change. Higher elevations have less air density then lower ones. At high elevations our engines are getting less air, so they need less fuel to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Generally you would go down one main jet size for every 1750 to 2000 feet of elevation you go up (info for Mikuni carbs). If you normally run a 160 main jet at sea level you would drop down to a 140 at 4000 feet. Something else goes down as you go up in elevation is horsepower. You can figure on losing about 3% or your power for every 1000 feet you go up. At 4000 feet your power will be down about 12%-even though you rejetted! For our second example, let's say we are still at our new 4000-feet elevation riding area and a storm comes in. We head back to camp and ride it out overnight. The next day there's a foot of snow on the ground the skies are clear and it's COLD! Aside from getting the campfire going and making some coffee you should be thinking about jetting again! Cold air is dense air and dense air requires bigger jets. If the 140 jet ran good the day before you will need a bigger jet to run properly today. If the temperature is 50 degrees colder than it was the day before you can actually go back to your sea level jetting, a 160 main jet! If you don't rejet you can kiss your assets goodbye when you rebuild the seized engine. Air temperature makes that much difference!

Once you go cub, you'll need paddles for sand, or slicks for pavement. Good luck getting a set of knobbies to hook. Kenda Klaws with ever other row removed might be ok. My holeshot XCRs which hooked like a mofo in grass with my stock motor just fry in everything, grass, dirt, pavement, you name it. I put 'em on the bike to transport it if I'm not going to the dunes, that's about it....

You can't, really. If you have too much compression and/or timing, by the time the plug looks like a silver coated sparkler, it's too late. You have to listen to your engine.

You can count on it. JT (badassbanshee479) lives in Brighton, and they're always on White lake with a group of guys. So...I plan on hitting that a bunch, too!

Just because a 750 may do 150+ in a streetbike chassis, doesn't mean it will on dirt in a banshee chassis... I call bull too. You forgot Trav....it's on Razrs. I'm sure it's hooking up pretty good on NOS...