dajogejr

If you haven't already, invest in a new igntion. When I built my 4 mil last year, I got a Nology w/ hotwires and a Dyna.... With all the money I spent on the motor, why save a few hundred with the ignition? I've got a Nology w/ wires to test with should you need it...

Keep the pipes you have, get SSTs, T5's or Trinity's if you have the coin. The IV's are pricey because they're stainless steel. For trail you don't want a fat bastard, Shearer or CPI style pipe. You definitely don't want Rockets.

Tough comparison, considering there's a ton of different builders out there and different port jobs. keepin in mind, rider skill plays along that line too!!! From a stock ported bike with Toomey probably in the 40HP range, to an aggressive port job with Toomey's that can range from 55 to 70ish HP....it's a very, very nice jump!!!

Just do a search....people run from 20:1 to 100:1...depending on their needs and oil type. I think you'll find the "Majority" of people run either 32:1 or 40:1.... I personally never like Golden Spectro (Black and gold bottle, right? LIke 11 or 12 ounces in there) My buddy that races bikes (has since gone to 4 poke motocross bikes) used to always use it and swear by it. I used to use Super M @ 40:1, then switched to R50 @ 40:1. I'm going to be running Benoil at 24 or 28:1 in my alky bike....

Contact machwon, he's Bob of R&B racing on this board. I'm pretty sure he's around Saginaw...just outside of. Bob's a nice guy, very affordable and a straight shooter...!!

Sounds a little low, even at that elevation. I know this sounds stupid, but I have to ask. a. what kind of compression tester is it? If it's a 10 dollar auto store bargain bin special, throw it out and get a good one. b. Are you checking it warm or cold? Are you holding the throttle wide open and kicking it until it doesn't climb anymore? It often can take 15 to 20 kicks to get the last few PSI out of it. As said, on a stock head at your elevation I would at least expect to see over 100PSI on a slightly worn motor....if 90PSI is correct, I'd be putting a fresh top end on at the same time as the head...no reason to crank up the compression on a worn motor...

Is your bike a bone stock port, or does it have other mods? You want Pipes that compliment your porting and riding style.... If you look at Vito's pipe, it is very similar to a Shearer pipe. Older Vito's pipes were damn near identical.... What kind of riding do you do, and what is done to your bike. Everyone is going to give you their opinion of their favorite pipe....but it's your bike, not theirs....

Dunno bout that....he dicked me around over a flux capacitor till I filed a paypal claim with him.... LOL... Just kidding, bansheman is a good guy to deal with, no BS, straight shooter...good transactions myself with him!!! (I really should switch to decaf on the weekends...) :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

I'd say as long as you are jetted properly, +4 will be just fine!

Without markings, hard to say. And even the markings on the plate I'd have to say are the best guess at that... On the RS plate, each 1 to 2mm or so is 1 degree of advance... Here's a picture of one, so...maybe that can help a little... If you are looking at the plate as it would mount on the bike, you'd want to be able to turn the plate clockwise to advance the timing...so, grind accordingly... http://www.rickystator.com/catalog/product...products_id=131

Fair enough... I will have to try R vs. non R plugs this year. I'm running alky on my bike this year, and as you know...it takes a pretty good spark to light it off...hence the reason for a smaller gap in comparison to gas. Thanks for the input... Sorry to hijack the thread!

Look for cracks/leaks around the boost bottle...they're known to stress the rubber. Start it up, spray some carb cleaner around there. If it dies out...you've got an air leak. Try this, warm the bike up. Put real slow in first gear at a very, very small amount of gas. Pull the choke half way out. If it makes it better...you need to fatten the pilot. Do the same thing in the mid-range. Find some nice level ground (to hold the throttle steady) hold it half way open...pull the choke half way out. If it gets better, richen the needle....

Brandon, I'm as dumb as a rock when it comes to electronics....to further fry your noodle, here's one for you. As said, Dyna recommends R plugs for their ignition. Now...I run a Nology Coil with their hot wires. (Their hot wires have resistors built in) Nology recommends running NON-resistor plugs with their coil and hotwires. So...tell me....who is right? I can tell you I ran standard old BR8ES last year on my cub with healthy compression (185 PSI) and and a TON of timing, and never had an ignition problem.... I was just looking at your thoughts. Better yet, I'd be happy to send you my Dyna and Nology together if you felt the need to test it out....

We'll only crack jokes if Mr. Waltrip isn't standing behind you....turn around and look for us, please...

Might have another 300ft Sand Track to run at too...Rog. Gonna check it out in the next few weeks. Gonna be an hour or so drive for you...but, when Bob's isn't open...

Yep....same I'm hearing...too. You can get BB out of frames all day long, but...inframes has been a big time hold up for the last few months. I'm in the same boat as you!

Dan... Drive 20 minutes down the road and hit Magic Racing.... Otherwise, call Jeff @ Fast see how much he wants for 'em.

Call Jeff @ FAST. He sells K&N knockoff filters, great price, 6 or 8 inch and outerwears to match. I run the 6 inch angled on my bike last year and this year...

Not sure why you'd want a drag axle for a dune bike....why don't you just get a durablue X33 or other lighter axle...

Just say no... Crack is whack.... Seriously Chris, bansh-eman is right, as if firehead. There is a LOT more to just building a bigger motor than slapping it on. There's chassis setup, tranny and clutch, fuel and exhaust, etc. Best thing you could do...as said, is get to reading your ass off and learn as much as you can. Then...call a few builders. Call Jeff at FAST, call Jim at Passion, Call Cameron at Redline, Dave @ Dave Moore Racing, Rudy Kurtz @ Port Magic... There are plenty others. See how they treat you. See their pricing, etc. That's the best advice I could give you...

I'm quite sure one LARGE carb would be better than stockers, no doubt. But with a single carb setup on a drag port and FMF pipes, you're missing out on ponies for sure, and I'm sure you're aware of that. I'm not trying to start a pissing match, but don't you think some drag or opened up pipes would suit that aggressive drag port better, like CPI, Shearers or the like?? I don't think, for DRAG purposes, a single large carb will compare to a set of 39s, etc. Small motor or big motor...

Thanks Brandon...very nice info. So....you're saying I should throw out my booster along with my flux capacitor and muffler bearing? Geez...that boost bottle is gonna be awfully lonely on that shelf by itself...LOL. Thanks again!!! :biggrin:

I seriously just got a headache trying to read all that. Here's what you need to ask yourself. How much do you want to spend, and what are you looking to get out of it? If you get a Cheetah, you're getting different intakes. You're getting a different head, you're buying a swingarm, good pipes, carbs...etc. Lockup clutch, override tranny....etc. Have you thought about getting a good solid port job on your OEM cylinders? Too many people want to buy a cub or cheetah motor, and just drop it in without looking at the clutch, tranny...pipe selection. it's a lot more than bolting a motor together. Hope this helps...

Brandon, do you have any links or other to back that up? (I'm not doubting you at all, don't take it that way. Rather, I learned something if that is in fact the case....) I'm aware of the RON and MON rating system...however, never heard the 10 points to one number before..... If that is the case, you'd need a SHIT LOAD of octane booster to get just a few full numbers in octane. At that point, it can't possibly be cheaper than race fuel.... However, to the original Aussie that posted. My advice to you is if race fuel isn't readily or easily available to you, steer clear of large compression increases or timing advances (+4 is fine) to keep it safe...

You guys just ain't right I tell ya.... :biggrin: