dajogejr

I used the ones from my T5s and they were a TAD tight, but not much when I put 'em on my Shearers....they should be fine to use.

Peter, judging by the mods to your bike in your sig, you don't need one. You could probably put 3 HD springs and 3 standard springs in your clutch and it will have more than enough holding power. Direct drive will tell you a lockup is a good idea for any bike....but I personally think it's overkill for stock motor'd bike. Once you start getting into some pretty aggresive motor work, yeah...you need it.

Honestly...unless this motor has a TON of time on it...I can't see a bone stock 06 needing rings already... I'd measure them up....but I think a new head gasket is the key. It'd be a good idea to block up the head as well, to make sure it is not warped. You need some wet/dry sandpaper and a flat steel plate, move it around on the sandpaper in a figure 8. Normally, take a black sharpie marker and color ALL of the mating surfaces (not the domes) and figure 8 it on the paper for about 5 to 10 seconds. Then look at it...when it scratches ALL of the marker off, it's flat.... With 60 and 90 PSI, I'm surprised it even starts...

Yes..but, correct me if I'm wrong. That kit...the smallest it goes is 3/4". Wheel nuts are either 13mm (1/2) or 14mm (9/16) Will that kit work with a smaller AND rounded off nut??

Yeah, no kidding Travis.... I think we'd both be singing in the 3's...he he... Send jankab or cubshee on PS a PM...he's got a couple motors he's ready to get sell that will drop in. As said though, be prepared to lighten a chassis, drag axle, longer swinger or wheelie bar...etc. 140HP in a chassis that doesn't get that power to the ground isn't worth squat...LOL.

If you sent me a PM...I haven't gotten it yet...and I got a TON last night AND this morning...

Sorry...but I've done a lot of motors with cool heads and pro design heads. They leak from time to time, that's all there is to it. That's why I put a dab of RTV on each stud when I'm threading it into the jug, a real thin coat on all the orings, and I even put a dab on the bottom of each head nut, too.... If it's worth doing, it's worth doing right.

Dave, I could be wrong but I'm fairly certain it's either Mull or Mullen Engineering... He's posted it up before...just too lazy to poke back in old threads...LOL.. DJ

In his title it says Missouri...under his name it says St. Louis... band-one, if that bike is half as clean as it sounds that's a smoking deal. If you have pictures, send me a PM..I'll give you my email and I'll be happy to post them up for you for all to see!!!

I know exactly how you feel...Why spend thousands to save a few dollars... Pretty much why I bought all new ignition... Don't get me wrong...when I had my stock motor bolt on 96 bike, I wanted to try a tusk. However, RMATV was out of them back then (summer of 05) and was out for weeks...so, I said screw it...called Jeff after talking to a few on here, and we've been friends since... Over a 90 or 100 dollar clutch...it just snowballed from there... I probably would've stayed with an OEM cylinder bike if it wasn't for that damn phone call....LOL... (Just kiddin buddy...left you a voicemail, you should enjoy it...)

Tell you what...I apologize. I should've PM'd you....which I will do now and delete my post. Not fair for me to get on others for trashing a for sale post, then I go do it to yours...pretty damn hypocritical of me.... You'll have PM in a few... And...no...you could price shop one of the most expensive retail/race shops out there and still get lower than the prices you posted...

Yo G...you know Silver Lake is my hood... I don't think he's on HQ...but I KNOW he's on PS. His name is speedrip. I think his real name is Don, but i"m not 100% on that. Real nice guy...that's his little bike, his 14mil cub (in the back of the truck) rips pretty good!!! PM him on PS...he'll tell ya...

Dealer... I would say carbparts.com or sudco.com...but, I think they have like a 20 dollar minimum order. Hit a hardware store to try and match it up... Good luck.

No no no...NOS or a Turbo...dammit... LOL...

Yep...they'll tell you what the db limit is for 2 strokes and 4 strokes. They don't care...they're gonna test you or they aren't. I've yet to see them check for db, even on a holiday weekend. But rest assured...you gotta have sparkies....they check you at the gate, every time...

Strut it for the track. Remove the front brakes. get the lightest tires/rims you can. Get a 13 tooth front, launch in 2nd gear. Get CPI pipes, and bore the carbs. I know you want to trail ride...but at least take off the hush kit for the races.... I'm hoping it's bracket racing...in that case...I can see you wanting a dual purpose bike. Otherwise...there's gonna always be cheaters...and you're gonna lose...

I think the other clutch components are often overlooked. I won't put a 40 dollar clutch in my few thousand dollar bike. Sorry...not to save a few bucks...but that's just me. Spring/spring pressure is often overlooked. If you have good plates and fibers, but the springs aren't holding for crap...it will quickly ruin even the best clutch. Also...just as theshee said...his inner and outer were bad. When I bought my 4 mil cub last year, I bought new inner and outer and basket all at the same time. 3rd year now on my FAST clutch. From my bolt on stock 96 motor, to my 4 mil cub on gas in 06 to my current 10 mil alky motor....the clutch is still going strong....

Yep..grind a slot in it, get a BFS, and tap the end with a hammer. I normally try to tighten them more just a hair, then crack it loose. You'd be surprised how many times you can get it to budge a hair tighter, then it loosens right up...

This is true out of the box....but, I don't think cub cylinders or cheetahs were perfect first go around either... More and more are building super cubs...and you'll probably see some pretty good numbers out of them...and CP will make a change to reflect these better running motors. Rog...I've heard/read/seen the biggest problem with the super is the smaller intake with such a big plug going up and down...what do you think? I bet 4 mil or 10 mil super cub would make a helluva torquey dune/drag bike!!! That's one reason the Cheetahs run so good, bigger intakes with bigger pistons....

Sorry...but I disagree. Bolt on vs. bolt on, and I'm talking reeds, pipes, cams, air filters, timing...etc. A YFZ will beat a banshee in a drag race. Maybe not on the very top end...but no drag races last that long. It is very...very hard to beat a new 4 poke off the line. And then the race is done...and you're playing catchup. Now...once you get into porting, forgetabouit...banshee all the way. I've rode with a TON of 4 poke guys....they're coming out of the box 50 pounds lighter and with as much or more HP...and they hook up like a tractor and go.... Now...I'm talking like a 200 to 400 ft drag race, sand or pavement...close or equal weight riders of similar skill. I'm sure a 120lb experienced banshee rider should smoke a 250lb novice on a 4 poke...and vice versa....

260 mains...and you'll be a little rich at the higher elevation (2500 ft. or so..) Normally, removing the lid with pipes is 280 to 290 around here, 65 to 85 degrees....and 0 to 800 foot above sea level. You're up higher, and you're leaving the lid on...so...leaner is going to be the ticket. 260 should be a safe starting point. Then plug chop. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

What mods do you both have done to your bikes...? Traditionally...Shearer will pull more on top and longer than a CPI...in most cases. However, either pipe on a non-ported bike with bigger carbs is a total waste in my opinion? Dirt or pavement? Rider weights? A lot of variables you didn't list out...

I had both air filter setups, 1 into 2 Toomey foam w/ outerwear, and the pod filters. Same jetting for both...I used one as a backup on a long weekend of trail riding, instead of having to clean one or the other....

ttt

No pics...