dajogejr

Water, soup and a lighter? I'm coming trail riding with you for sure!!!! LOL... Phillips and straight screw driver, plug wrench and extra plugs. ZIP ties for sure!!! Don't need bolts with enough zip ties.... :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Call Toomey and get their jet kit, just use the needles. Or call Vito's and get their needles. I know you can get them cheaper than that... Or...like I mentioned, put up a wanted ad for parts, someone's probably got some laying around for cheap...you can buy used carbs with ALL parts for less than 100 bills.

There are a few guys selling them in MI...you can get a perfect frame for that much, just pay for shipping too. minkia38 has a SHIT TON of frames, and I think BIG BLUE has a mint, freshly PC'd Jarm as well...look in the for sale.

Matt...upload the photos to imageshack.us, cut and paste the embedded link for forums into here.... Blah...here's one picture... Shot at 2007-07-09

Let us know when you get it dyno'd out there...just curious. I might have...are you banshee379 on PS??

I think we've all come back to the truck/camp with a part or two in our lap at one time or another. Usually, the less and smaller of the part the better.... Usually when somebody leaves, and their bike comes back MUCH louder than when it left...it's always a good campfire story....luckily there wasn't a crash involved in yours.

Thanks for the info....appreciate it. Do you have these ready for production? Pricing info on these?

Nope...you're fine.... I see alot of silly questions....like trying to make a trail type pipe a drag racing pipe by "removing the silencer"... When in fact the pipe was designed to be used in conjunction with the silencer...that's all... If you rode with it back in your lap, I'm assuming you didn't do mach 3 for hours on end. I think you're just fine!!!

No one can answer that question... You're asking if you can run the pipes that are designed to run with silencers without them? Is there a specific reason why you'd want to do that? It will accomplish two things 1. be loud and obnoxious 2. Offer no performance gain, if anything it'll hurt performance.... If that's ok with you...proceed.

Well...I'll take a stab at this. The Cheetah vs. the cubs are more than just power valves. They are different intakes as well, which are CR500 style I believe, which will flow more... For drag racing, the powervalves will not matter... the bigger cheetahs have the powervalves blocked off anyways. However, the cubs are less expensive and stock components will fit..intakes, head, etc....

For my bro on PS: I got a 4 mill super cub cylinder and head (72 mm bore) all brand new 950 shipped. Also I can have a set of cases bored to accept the larger bore cases are clean no chain break, 1250 to your door. http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...ge/1#Post644665

Look on the needle....it's on there.

Here's the fuel page... Am I the only one that giggled when I scrolled down further and read "engine diaper"... http://www.milandragway.com/rockyspitstop/index.htm And I think Grainger carries a hand pump that works for methanol...too.

My cub was actually uneven from the factory. The top and bottom had to be slightly decked to get it flat. It's part of the sand blasting/finishing products from Millenium, the platers. I assembled my motor 3 times before, more and more carefully each time and it was still a problem. Get a leak down tester to make your life easier... Bob from R&B Racing sells a nice kit for 50 or 60 bucks...you can PM him here @ machwon. Great guy to deal with.

I wish I had the problem of 104 tq... I wasn't asking IF it could hold it, I'll take Nate's word for it... But even on Direct Drive's site, it mentions tuning their lockup via weights...and I was wondering what the equivalent to Kevin's design was...that's all. We all know what happens on the dyno doesn't always equate to what happens at the track. Nate...and Boston... You guys ever tune the lockups to allow a little more slippage out of the hole...while still allowing locking up down the track at higher speeds?

considering it's 35 bucks (a few bucks off retail) for 5 gallons of VP...yeah, that's a deal. Also, you'll need a drum pump with NO rubber in it...cause as you know the alky will eat those parts up. 125 for a 55 gallon drum? Too late in the season this year, but I can tell you that'll be the ticket next year for sure!!! At the rate I'm riding that bike this year, 55 gallons would last me 5 or 6 seasons...LOL....

Corner? they have corners in drag racing? Shit...I'm screwed....LOL. I think it'll be helpful to go by a light and shift, rather than by feel which can be inconsistent at times...plus another screaming loud bike next to you can make it hard to hear your own motor and "feel" how it's pulling....

Nylock nuts on the bottom....

You could probably find one, but I haven't run across one yet...they've all been "pass through" bolts. I'd be worried about snapping a bolt of in the swinger if it was threaded...

I think it'll hook up just fine. I ran 10 paddle regular haulers on my 421, gas...6 over arm and it hooked good. Who/where you getting that motor from? That's exceptional numbers for a 4 mil cub, on alky...right?

Very nice... I love the old retro black and white YZ-esque color scheme...

Yep, some nice allen head for looks, but anything that fits the holes will work. I had to get some for mine, no big deal. Washer on both ends is a good idea so you don't tear up the arm.

Josh...did I sell you those reed spacers? I can't remember. Free bump for a good guy and good seller.... These are great prices!!!

I don't know about that needle...I ran CELs in mine when I ran gas on my 4 mil cub. It ran very crisp...and I think I had a 158 or 160 main. If you're at 2.5 turns out on the air screws, you probably want to run a smaller pilot. Have you checked the motor for leaks? Compression test? Tested the electrical?

I got a feeling once he lands in the clink, Bubba will have no problem sticking it to him...but then again, maybe that's his style....