dajogejr

That is exactly how my pickup from Ricky Stator looked...as said, I used a knife to trim some of the plastic. Please read this and follow it to a T. That means warming the bike up on old plugs, and getting a 5th gear WOT ride out of it. 3rd gear aint going to cut it...there is more load on the motor in a higher gear...which is how you jet the bike. I understand you probably can't rip down your street in a residential area to hit 5th...so, hit the trails. Please read this....and follow it to dial your mains in. Normal riding for 15 to 20 minutes will get you plug coloring, but...followed properly, you will get a smoke ring from a 10 or 15 second WOT run. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

Well...if you or someone rides it a few hours a day nonstop...and a lot on weekends...yeah, you got a ton of hours on it. That's a lot of riding. When Ricky rode for Honda, he put two 45 lap motos in a day at their supercross track. Average lap times were just over a minute (compared to most supercross tracks of just under a minute) Keep in mind a main event is 22 laps I believe... That's less than what he practices daily... So...that's an hour and a half a day...give or take... Plus what he rides on practice/race sessions at the event. RC is the GOAT, no doubt about it....I've watched his career since he was a Jr. Rider....I've followed supercross for over 20 years. Stewart is fast, but I don't think he will ever have 3 perfect seasons outdoors.... Plus whatever he ride

Somewhere between 60 to 80 passes on mine, 10 mil on alky....all sand, no problems. 2 quarts of ATF Type F, change it every other race weekend...so, after every 30 passes or so. I probably could wait longer, but...a few bucks for a quart of tranny fluid.... It's still red when I drain it. No, no case modification is necessary for a dunable.

Shitty deal, sorry... Next time look around. Minkia38 has a TON of frames lined up, could've saved you some money..too.

Why would you have to send your cases out for a duneable tranny? Do you know something I don't? I have a 1-5 Neutral down override, dunable...nothing special as far as the cases go... You're putting a lockup on while you're at it, right??

I call BS. 2500 to 3000 Hours? C'mon....splitting the difference at 2750 hours, that means since it was new, 3 years old, it's been ridden 10.4% of the time. That's 10% of the total hours available on a 24 hour day, 7 day week, 52 weeks a year. That means you ride your bike every day for 2.2 to 2.3 hours a day roughly. 7 days a week?? Ricky Carmichael has (had before he semi-retired) the toughest training regiment in the sport. He only put about 2 hours day on the bike....during the week, and the hour or so on the weekend when he had an event/practice, etc. Here's the math...not taking into account Leap Year. 26208 hours in 3 years. (24 a day X 7 X 52 weeks a year X 3 years) 2750 is 10.49% of 26208 10.49% of 24 hours (in a day) is 2.51 hours a day...EVERY DAY. I want your job... Last I checked....125cc two strokes rev pretty high, I think in the 12k ball park.

You are correct... The Toomey (Dynojet) needles are a bit longer, but skinner...they richen up a lean spot in the middle with stock needles once you remove the air box. I didn't know they make a K&N two into 1. I know they make a foam Uni 1 into 2....Toomey sells it. And when I had my stock motor, piped bike it was the same jetting for the 2 K&N individual pods as it was the 1 into 2 Toomey foam air filter... EL... Fatties tend to like a fatter pilot. 27.5 with .5 to 1.0 turns out or a 30 with 2 turns out will probably be about right...

35s on gas are a fine choice for that motor. Air Strykers are a little nicer, run of the mill PWKs are fine as well..

Bob...that is EXACTLY what I find around here, same mods. My 96 was that with a stock head and stock cages/boysen reeds. On the dynojet needle, you mean 4th clip from the top I think, they have 6 clip positions...or at least mine did...

Long, Long, Long, Long term maybe....same could be said for race or regular gas too. It's a wear item, they eventually wear out, chip, etc.

Did you OHM and check the stator? I had a brand new RS stator go bad on me in less than a year. I ohm'd it, one side was dead...and I sent it to RS. No questions asked, sent me a new one within a week. As Snop said, you can read all you want....but I can tell you off the bat you want .015 to .020 air gap between the flywheel and pickup coil. More than .020 is too much, IMO. If it fails the ohm test, send it back to them. If it ohms fine, look towards the jetting...as said. This is your new best friend for dialing the main in: http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html

If the machine shop does the sleeves correctly, reliability won't be a factor...however, I'm a little fuzzy on this one, but big 68mm sleeves in a stock cylinder isn't a great idea because of the transfer port area... They're limited and undersized once you put a bigger sleeve in. Maybe someone else can chime in if I'm way off base there....but if memory serves me correct, that's why most people don't put big bore sleeves in an OEM cylinder....

Funny you should say that....NYUK is probably one of the best, if not the best cat to do business with on here (next to myself, of course...lol) Here you go....a helluva lot cheaper than a new setup or a Trinity setup. Don't be fooled by Lectrons, they're a helluva carb. You just have to throw out anything you know about tuning a conventional carb....they are great carbs. http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=82664

Get the oil as close to exact as you can. However, I won't sit there and wait for the last few drips out of the quart or ratio-rite. One or two drops of oil aren't going to make a lick of difference per gallon, let alone 4 to 5 gallons.

A stock trued and welded crank is just as strong as anything out there for your needs. There is no reason at all to buy another crank, unless you're going to buy a stroker crank. My buddy charges 100 bucks to completely dissasemble the crank, inspect all bearings and the webs, true it and weld it. If someone is not going to check the true on it...probably 40 to 50 bucks. Just make sure the outer and inner sides get welded. Are you planning on rebuilding the top end anytime soon...or getting porting done? If so...then I'd wait. If you plan on riding on that motor as is for a while, yeah...my advice is to weld it.

If you have a massive air leak, it won't matter what jet you put in it....trust me on that one. I put 200 to 380 main jets on mine last year..and just about every jet inbetween...didn't make a lick of difference. the mains sound way too big...but, hey...a properly done plug chop is the key. Aftermarket reeds and/or reed cages actually richen up the midrange. You richened it up even more by bumping the needle. Bump the needle two slots leaner...see if that helps (one clip leaner than stock) My advice is find an oil and mixture ratio (technicplate @ 32:1 is just fine) and leave that. On two bikes I've jetted for gas running that oil at 40:1...it left a smoke ring just fine. What kind of terrain are you riding on, what kind of tires, what kind of gearing?

Snop...I think you'll agree no two motors are the same. 21cc is definitely safe...20 cc...it's a crap shoot. It also depends on his state of tune....he also has a boost bottle, so...well, you know. TJ... Get your crank welded as soon as you split the cases. I've seen quite a few stockers split, with stock compression and pipes/jets. There is no guarantee on what is safe, what is not. Stock banshees have 122 to 128PSI...you're increasing that... Welded cranks are a good piece of mind. Stock cranks are actually very strong and reliable, once welded and trued properly.... Snop...unless you're willing to spend your money for his repairs if something happens, that's not very safe advice...

Everything2stroke.com has a ride scheduled for this weekend coming up...should be an ok turnout. Labor Day weekend it will be off the hook...wish I could make it..

Blaster Big Bore pistons...the same as we use in our 68mm cubs. Jeff @ FAST has 'em all day long. You can get them from Vito's...as well as just about any site sponsor. VForce reeds work fine for gas or alcohol....not sure where that alcohol remark came from Justin. :shrug: Get a CPI pipe. You're getting a dune port...and In My opinion...CPI makes the best dune pipe. While not as violent or as much peak HP as a Shearer, it is smoother and has a broader power curve. Get some 21cc domes or have your stock head cut and Oringed and you should be fine on pump gas. You're missing out on some power by not going more compression and timing, but....if race fuel is that hard to get, you gotta do what is right for you!!!! Shifting might be kinda notchy...so, just be prepared for it. What chassis and suspension mods are you going to do/have you done to accomodate this new found power?

Anybody post a link to the correct way to do a plug chop? If not...here you go. http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html Looking at the end of the porcelin is not the way to tune mains. And...Dgrey...for Got's sakes. Can you shorten the subject line of your posts? It's the subject, not the complete technical explanation in this field. Plug Pics would've been perfectly suitable as a title.....

And timing... Compression and timing are the main factors in the need for race gas. Compression more so than timing! Get a good quality gauge, see where it's at...and let us know...

They are a nice bike... The same guy that had the pred on juice just got a 525 KTM motor for his second predator frame. Now...that thing should be a rocket once he gets it figured out!!! I don't have any pictures of his...but you'd be amazed with some of the shit he had on it. Flex bars and everything...it was truly a nice bike...

Not to split hairs...but everyone I know from stock motor drag bikes to 18mil cheetah/twister bikes run non O ring chains, both on the sand drag strip and the dunes... I can take a shit for 1/4 HP....hell, sometimes 1/2 if I ate Mexican... :yelrotflmao: Seriously though, an Xring is really the best chain if you're gonna be around mud, water, etc... Otherwise, a good old regular chain is just fine!

You either had a freak of nature Predaturd, or you haven't ridden or raced a 450. A piped and intake setup Predator would lose by a MILE to any brand new 450, bone stock...period. They are great trail bikes....they are very comfy and the ergos aren't too bad for a trail bike. They aren't in the same breath as a piped banshee or stock 450 racing wise... A "turd could probably take a piped shee in tight trails...if that's the racing you mean, than I apologize and you're right.

Just to add to Justin's point... Not all Non-Oring chains are junk. My non-Oring handles 120HP or so nicely... If you're gonna ride trails with water and mud, get an O or X ring chain. If you're gonna ride dunes or drag race, get a non-O or X ring chain.