dajogejr

With today's products, type of oil usually isn't the problem, lack of it sure can be... I ran Super M and R50 Klotz in my gas cub, I run Benoil in my alky bike. Most of the alky guys use Benoil or 927 because it stays mixed longer with alky... On a side note...in building a cub...make sure you measure the following before you fire the bike. 1. Squish 2. Compression 3. Leak Down...

So...I should plug the TPS sensor back into the flux capacitor on my banshee? Geez...I knew I was missing something... :yelrotflmao:

Hell of an offer, and I appreciate it Roger. However... My company is putting on the Grand Prix AND Jazz Festival in Detroit this weekend. The odds of me being on site for one if not both events is pretty good, since I'm the only one that does this kind of support/work at my office... I told E to blow it up for me, so I can get a 10 mil cheetah...LOL...

Just make sure you don't pass our first around this group, Rog...you never know what'll happen...and get posted on the net!! Sorry I can't go, killing me not to be able to. Sunday is me birfday...so have a few for me!!!

You know damn well you wear one on your harley and like it...don't be a pointy helmet playa hater and be in denial... :ohmy:

I should email him and tell him if he can produce receipts for a 450 dollar clutch and 1100 pipes and jet kit, I'll drive to him and give him the 7K he's got "invested" into it.... How sad....

While you're at it...I put RTV on the studs. Put a dab on the threads when you screws them into the head....and put a dab on the studs before you put the nuts on them and torque it down. I've always had issues sealing aftermarket heads in the center studs...a little RTV can go a long way...

Dave Moore Racing, called the Legalizer...

Honestly...why don't you just have Bob Port them for a 4 mil, and get a head cut to run a stroker crank. You already like the drag port, fixing the ports for a stroker is no big deal..plus these are already polished, quite beautifully I might add. Unless you're going with a cub, cheetah, etc...then, I understand.

You can buy a nice gauge that threads in your hole from JJ&A for 200 bucks, to check stroke....or you could make your own...makeshift for next to nothing that will crudely do it. I'm assuming the motor is together, correct? Find a small, metric ruler that will fit in the spark plug hole. From BDC to TDC it should be roughly (and I say roughly because you're using a ruler...) 58mm 54 is stock.... Here is the tool I'm talking about... http://www.jjandaracing.com/ Click on "Other Stuff" on the left... It's the first tool, the "lie detector"... How fitting...

I meant WOT like 2nd through at least 5th included... You should be able to hold it WOT that long.... Some guys say they hold theirs open WOT for like a few miles....that would make me beyond nervous....

Yep...sold my 4 mil to SoCalinIt earlier this year, I got a Steal on the parts to make a 10 mil, and hey...I'm 250lbs, fat guys need big motors!!! Very little investment to build a bigger motor... Had it out to the track probably 4 to 5 times, still tuning it in but getting better and more used to a brand new bike every time out. The only thing I have from my 4 mil is the thumb throttle, rear brakes, front tires, gas tank, plastic and the seat. Literally that's it... Oh, the ignition from the last bike, too... Hopefully all this bad weather rolls over, we can make some passes in a non-mud pit sand drag, I'll post up some vids...

10 or 15 I think...

You will have to pry my boost bottle out of my cold, dead fingers....

Honestly, Donny...at this point, you've asked for our help. Were' giving you that...if you're going to do it on your own your own way, fine...but why bother asking us if you're gonna do something else. That 1 or 2 ft. lbs you may have just did for free isn't going to do a thing..... It is time to tear it down and look, or pay the bigger price later...your call.

Talked to Roger... Track is ok. Shut down area is a little soft, return lanes are muddy. Hopefully...they get minimal to no more water. He said it'll be worth our trip out...if anything changes, he'll call. I'm leaving the crib at 7, hope to get there 9:30ish and take my time. Got a feeling it'll be a delayed start. Hopefully they make it worth the wait!

Honestly, I think it's gonna be just like the T&T/Race a month or so ago... Rainy start, track maintenance...late start for T&T, late start for racing... But Redlight Racing won't be there...he's Grounded...LOL. Rog, if you don't mind and remember tomorrow...give me a call in the AM. I'll be up early...on the road by 7AM. I'd hate to call you and wake you up, etc...

If he don't, I will...LOL... C'mon out...big or small crowd, we always have fun!!

Nope, sorry. Dissasembly and inspection time. A compression tester will tell you cranking compression, the tester has a check valve in it...it will not check "bleed down"... And who's to say it doesn't start leaking when the motor is cold OR hot. A leak down tester (25 to 50 bucks) won't tell you if a head O ring is leaking...only that your losing pressure somewhere, so you're back to dissasemble and inspect. You said it won't run with the cover on. 2 holes and a lid removed are two different things. Figure out how you want to run your airbox/lid...and jet it accordingly. Don't assume just because the setup ran good on one bike, it automatically will on another. At the very, very least...once you get your coolant issue sorted, buy new plugs and do a proper plug chop. Follow these instructions... http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/plugchop.html I know you're trying to do this with as little effort and $$ as you can. But trust me...you can go broke saving money. Fix it right, cover your bases, you'll be happier longer, promise!!

Alcoholbanshee lives 5 minutes from the track...I've been keeping in touch with him as well... Thanks dawg...appreciate the heads up!!

If it was a catholic church...he probably could've bought a lot of candy bars and lollipops for the alterboys with all that loot...

You stop Bullshitting and lying, and we won't have to call you out on it. See...problem solved for everyone....

It's gonna cost you 50 bucks to check. 10 to 15 for the clutch cover side gasket. 9 for coolant. 5 to 10 for gear oil. 20 for a new set of Orings for your head. Plus your time.... You can pay a little now and guess, or pay more later... Then it'll cost you 10 to 30 for spark plugs and jets to get that figured out.

Not if I put my nitrous/methanol blaster motored banshee on your dyno to get the correct a/f...you will get half tracked....

Damn I needed that one for today....I almost forgot that. I don't know what is more memorable...Mr. Force or the look on JT and my face when we realized what just happened and looked at each other....classic!!!