dajogejr

Nah, no secret...if he looked around the forums, he'd know... Just gonna try out some Lectrons setup by Packard, Dan... I've gotten enough runs in with my current setup to know how it runs, if I can bolt on these carbs, tune 'em a bit...and do better, great....if not, no biggie...

I'm pretty sure they take a different cable. I'm going to pick one up from Packard Directly...it's 45.00...they make it them selves, each piece is replacable, teflon lines, etc... I can tell you JT's 4 mil handles 39PWKs no problem, 40MM lectrons shouldn't be an issue...

Well...it does have to do with Fuel Delivery...

I'm gonna be trying out something totally new...I wouldn't mind the weekend or two after to get a T&T session in...

Talk to badassbanshee479 He has a set of RDZ two out clutch side silenced, small bore, he runs on his 4 mil cub. They're black... http://www.planetsand.com/forums/ubbthread...true#Post705215

Pics

Well...I'm getting a set of 41's setup by packard for alky and a fuel pump in the next few days. I've got a ton of runs at the strip with the setup I have now, and I'm going to be hitting the track and dyno within the next couple of weeks. I'll have to let you all know how they work out compared to my dual 39PWK setup on my 10 mil.... If I'm not mistaken...Packard CNC machines his own metering rods to his specs.

How can you say that without trying it on several different builders version of their dune ports?? 1. Other people bad mouth it. 2. Those other people never got it tuned right, so they bad mouth it. About 75-80% of the 2 into 1 intakes with pwk's I come across on bikes have the wrong jetting and needles in them, and change the power delivery alot once we play with them a bit. I agree...but that could be said with just about any carb out there....

Here ya go...nice looking ride!!!!

You guys suck...just as our season is winding down, yours is starting back up...nice... Have fun out there, be careful!

To be honest...holding the throttle wide open will net you a few more PSI more than likely...so, it's a good idea... But even if it jumps to 100, it's still low. Did you keep on kicking until it didn't go up anymore (often can take 20 kicks or more...) Snap on is what I use as well....it's top end time.

Yeah, we know....but there's a picture there for you so go find your crayons and get to work... :yelrotflmao:

That would explain perfectly why it is so hard to start, if you used a quality compression gauge. It's time for a top end rebuild. With that low of compression...you need to take the cylinders off and have them measured. It could only need a hone and set of rings...but it could need to be bored to the next size and pistons/rings replaced. It all depends on the tolerances... When my old stock motor had 105PSI or so...it took 10 kicks or so cold to start, once warmed up it took one kick, but it was tired..... 120ish is stock, your top end needs to be freshened up....it's time! Magic Racing has a good combo deal, pistons, pins, bearings and ALL gaskets needed to do the job for 179 I think. You just have to get it measured (or mic'd as they say) to see where you end up... Good luck!!

Hold the press, I actually agree with Wes on this one. He already has the carbs...see how it runs with them. If it's a strong enough port, he has the correct gearing, etc...I think it'll run fine. He already has the carbs, I've seen plenty of stock motor, mild port OEM cylinders run well with 34PJs...not a big step from that to a 35PWK. At least he'll know for sure...how much hassle are we really talking..vs. selling them for something else and having to wait. I'd run them... I think you're gonna lose some bottom end, but with timing and compression you can make up for some of that. Run 'em...see how you like them. Snop...who's to say this guys porting isn't better suited to this setup than the guy you race...?? Who's to say this guy isn't a better rider, has a better setup, etc....

Hmm... I removed the TORS on a buddies carbs, that popped out. I just pushed it back down...screwed the main in...and no problems. Make sure the seating surface/seat is clean. You might have to "scuff" the brass where it sits and seat it with firm pressure...but since the needle slides easily in and out of that dump tube, I don't see it pulling it back out. Are you using the splash guards that the main jets goes through? (The little clear plastic piece) I'd try scuffing the dump tube a bit, rough it up...and seat it firmly...see if that helps.

This is good reading.... http://www.lectronfuelsystems.com/rod_adjustment.htm

Yes... But...they don't have the traditional air screw and pilot jet. They have a needle with a funky taper that you turn to richen/lean the mixture, and high RPMs are fed by a power jet...or as they call them, fuel enrichment circuit. And if I'm not mistaken, all adjustments are external, no need to pop the bowl off...

Bump... Jason...send me pics to dajogejr at wowway dot com and I will post them up for you....

Stick got jammed somehow. There should be a small piece of tubing from the choke on the left carb to the right...

The two industry standard names in Lectron tuning are Packard Racing and Fast by Gast. Lectrons are pricey...but anyone that understand how they work and how they tune (I absolutely don't) say they are the cat's ass. I've also read they are not as finicky about temp changes, etc., and the run of the mil carbs (Keihin, Mikuni..) I bet you Dennis Packard could get your carbs 95% perfect for your setup...you'd have to adjust the metering rod and power jet dial to fine tune it (both externally adjustable)... I've always wanted to try Lectrons....I'm just not shelling out 500 to 600 for a set....my pumper Keihins get it done for me...

Depending on how much porting is done...55 to 60 HP. If you're gonna dune it most of the time, 7 degrees. If you're gonna just drag race, shut it down...wait..then drag again, 9 to 10 degrees. With that much compression and timing run 110 straight race gas, no mixing to be safe. Pick up some bigger carbs for a little more power, 33PWKs would probably run real nice on that bike.

I'll try to remember to call him tonight. After talking to him on the phone several times....I really think there is some misunderstanding. I'll see what I can do...

http://www.av-comparatives.org/seiten/ergebnisse_2007_08.php

You guys are using yesteryear's stuff... CounterSpy is the best spyware removal/defense for that stuff. John...go to Microsoft's site, get Windows Defender. It's 95% as good as counterspy. Ad Aware and Spy Bot were king in their day...years ago... together they're not bad...but still lacking. The best Trojan remover used to be Ewido Trojan remover, but they merged with AVG. You can still download it for free and get a fully functional Free trial for 30 days I belive.... CWS Shredder, HiJackThis, McAffee Stinger and SpyWare blaster are all free and very good tools as well... Other free Virus defenders are AntiVir...and if you go to TrendMicro.com, they offer housecall, a free online virus scanner. Panda Online has a good free online virus scanner as well. Welcome to my world guys...

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