dajogejr

Well...if I read that right, he's talking about the drain line...not the overflows (he said longest and closest to the swingarm) There should be a phillips screw on the actual bottom of each bowl, tighten it. If they still leak...remove each carb bowl, remove the screw...clean it out free from dirt/grime, and put the screw back in tightened down. These guys are talking about the two "spigots, or nipples" on both sides of the carbs...these are overflow vents. If the floats stick...it will come out of here. I think you're talking about the drain hose on the very bottom of the carb...no??

The most important thing is talk to whomever is porting your motor...and be VERY specific about exactly what you're going to be doing. One man's dune port is another man's drag port, another's MX port might be their dune port.... That's why I never buy into the "Stage1, 2...3...etc." porting. It's like a pair of shoes, get what fits (of course...you can't just go try 'em on...the only downside...)

Homie... Put these up on PS and Everything2stroke.com... If I had extra cash (yeah, looking for some myself) I'd get them in a heart beat...let me see if Evan needs any... Ah...I got your back homie. http://forums.everything2stroke.com/sale/2...html#post211418

And get rid of the air box....put some pod filters with outerwears on...let it breathe. I agree...aggressive dune port or drag port.... I'd probably lean more towards the dune port because you won't be holding it WOT the whole time...you gotta slow down for the curves (a little...he he he..)

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What are you worried about ...you got a drag bike, you're only using the clutch to stage and launch...then click, click, BOOM (oh, that's my race...LOL) J/K... I have the EZ pull lever and perch from Jeff with the roller bearing, it works fine. As said...you'd be surprised how much crap gets in the cable, I usually take paper to make a makeshift funnel, insert it in the end of the clutch cable, and give it some WD40 or Liquid Wrench till it runs out the other end. Put a dab of grease on the pivot points and the bolt as well. You'd be surprised how much easier it'll pull probably oiled....

Bambi will wait....the track....won't... C'mon down....

Saliva flat out rocks... How about "Ladies and Gentlemen"...

Are you using a spacer plate or cut domes? Did you get the engine port timings redone to match the 4 mil crank? What is your gearing? what gear are you leaving in? Have you tried slipping the clutch instead of dumping it.... There could be a number of things...mechanical OR Rider....

Gonna try my ass to get there by 12...or very shortly there after.... No leak down test on this motor, just gonna check squish, compression...and run this bitch... Silver Dodge, my bike will have dual chromies out the one side and I'm coming out NAKED baby....

Very nice...LOL. Things are looking up...as long as I can get it running ok tomorrow/Thursday, I'll be there all day Friday...stumbled upon a few food stamps to cash in...

You will soon....

Still need the gear...a few of them. Here's a pic...

This one has two, 4 wire outputs. I think the 4 wire on your will plug in. The 6 wire plug has two extra wires, they might be for the TORS, I'll have to look at a wiring for the newer bikes...though.

Funny how this clown worded that...amazing. I thought something was fishy with this deal...shitty indeed.

I'm 99% sure it will...but you might have to swap (cut and solder/tape) the wire plugs off your old one. Can you take a pic of the two plugs that go into your CDI (under the back grab bar, the big black box)..

Not every time...I've always had a problem sealing the aftermarket heads. With RTV, without, with grease, without, dry...etc.

Got one for sale if you're interested. The good part about a dyna is you don't need a plate....unless you already have one. If you never get to program it, it has 4 preprogrammed curves that are pretty good for a stock motor bike. To get the most out of it...programming software/cable and some dyno time should be used. The Nitrous crowd likes them...cause you can program a fuel only curve, and a nitrous curve.... They have better/stronger spark signal, etc. I'm selling mine because I don't have the time to dyno/tune mine in...and to be 100% honest, could use the cash for other projects right now. 180 shipped to you...instead of 250 to 300 brand new. Let me know...

JB Weld....makes everything work....

Will cover shipping and paypal fee for HQ members. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...em=270169945980

It's probably a trade off....to be honest. Not revving as high will probably cancel out bigger gearing... Unless that TRex has EXTENSIVE porting done by someone who knows what they're doing....it's not going to make the power a cleaned up cub will.... I know rossier makes great 4 stroke products. I'm unaware of their 2 stroke capability....

I'd ask Rossier...they could tell you. Porting, pipes, compression, intakes, timing....all play a role on how high it'll rev... But remember, doesn't do any good to rev to 11K if the power falls off at 9... Dyno baby...the only way to go.

Bump...

I'll know...uh...Thursday...LOL. Boy, them new pipes sure look purdy...though...LOL... I've already got a dog sitter, already have the day off...just gotta figure out how to afford it and finish the motor...