dajogejr

I'm sure you could coast for half of that.... Yeah, you get the picture. IMO it's just not worth running in the trails... But for duning and drag racing, hell yes...all over it!

As long as you get the porting to match the longer stroke....7%, give or take.

I get about 10 to 15 passes on a full stock tank at 300 foot a time. That's pushing the bike to the starting line, firing it up to warm it up...staging, WOT for 4 or 5 seconds, then idling back the return lanes to the pits or to line up and race again... So....yeah, it's pointless for trails.

No...as long as you are VERY close to the truck (which...when I ride trails I like to go on a 30 or 40 mile loop)... I think you should keep alky at the dunes and the track, people use alky yes, because it runs cooler and it makes more power. Get better pipes, porting and carbs before I'd use Alky for the trails....

For alcohol, 30mm carbs, in my opinion..yes. And do it right, get two pods. I know people that have chopped the airbox off except where the filter is and the boots are...still have sealing problems...

Bizzump for my homie...

Triple TWISTER...

With an airbox and modified lid your main should be fine. Put the needle back in the middle clip. See if that helps.... If not, put the air screws at 1.5 turns out and put 27.5 pilots jets in there. Fattys love fatter pilots, but don't go bigger than 27.5 (one size bigger than stock 25 ) because you're still running a box w/ lid.

If you got rid of those geckos....it would feel like you already had Alky.... bump the timing to 7, drill the main jets and dump tubes out, larger pilots jets and install power jets in the carbs. You'd be wasting your money converting those carbs to alky....get a new set. 35PWK, 34PJs or 35TM carbs would be fine for that motor.... Is your crank already trued and welded, as well? And get rid of the airbox and get pod filters.

10 mil, done up by Nate McCoy... More details on PS and ebay....

Looks badass and definitely different, but I'd be damned if I paid a 100 or 150 dollar "documentation" fee...just because they're a car dealer.... BS....

Yeah... Take the pipes off, tip the bike on it's front end and remove the spark plugs, kick it over and get that oil out. You guys ever hear of hydrolocking a motor? I realize it'll burn...it could also pop a crank seal, etc... Get that shit out. We all make mistakes, just tip it up an kick the bike over without plugs for a few minutes to try and get as much of you can out of there....

Yep...AutoZone and Pep Boys carry them around here....can't see it being any different out west!!!

Any way you can retrofit TDR reeds on them? Mossbarger...geez, that's a blast from the past....had them on my old 85 quadracer (case reed induction, of course...)

DG pipes all the way... :thumbsup:

Any way you'd trade for a 10 mil cub top end and some $$?

That's not a deal, that's a Steal.... I WISH I had the extra coin, I'd swap that for my 10 mil cub in a heart beat. Good luck...I was just drooling over this on PS....

why would I buy a different kind of oil to purge with than what I run in my methanol?? Too much BS buying different oils, etc. Once I burn what I got, I'll just go SuperTech year round and be done with it...

Ask whomever is going to port your motor what they recommend...for your build and riding style/locale...

If I was a personal injury lawyer I'd tell you to buy it....

At least it only got bid up to like 500 or 600 bucks...so, obviously everyone else thought he was a tool, too...

Well...I won't be riding till we have ice...I just got my fixed Pipe back last week...and Jeff @ FAST still has my Lectron carbs he's fiddling with... With some exceptions, I'll always loan parts/tools out... That's just how us MI boys roll... bad/good of MI. If you like the 4 seasons, you're set. But if you ride a drag bike, you're severely limited in ride time and places...

I rode a buddy's with Bill's pipes and a K&N Filter, no lid. I didn't like them...they seemed to flatten out sooner than my T5s did. They were smoother without the hit of the T5s, though...

I got one he can borrow if he pays shipping....

On cub motors, I try for .040 to .050... There are others that run tighter...but it really depends on a lot. Squish angle, depth, dome cc, bore size, etc....