dajogejr

I run straight water in my bike in the summer...so, it's just for color alone. In the winter, since it's cold round here, I just run 50/50 green antifreeze so the motor doesn't freeze and crack...

Shipping will be 15 bucks or so... If any of those guys are too busy, I can get r done for you...

Be here in a second. He was just practicing the one handed swordsman duel.....

Yep...I think we all have...LOL... What about the air gap between the pickup coil and flywheel magnets?

Honestly, it's luck of the draw. Some have run aggressively ported motors on stock cranks for a while...but I've seen stock motor bikes with an air filter and pipes start to separate the crank. When you start getting aggressive on the compression and timing, it's just good sense and piece of mind. Normally...when a crank comes apart at 10,000 RPM, things won't be pretty.... 75.00 to 100.00 is the nominal charge.. Just make sure they weld the inner and outer webs... I've seen cheapo Uncle Ed's shop with the buzz box arc welder only do the outsides, and done poorly...

I've talked to him pretty much all week...I think he works nights, 12 or 14 hours shifts and he just got back from 3 or 4 days off... As said, PMs work well...he's always quick to answer.... You could call him if you want, just leave a message. He doesn't answer the phone for numbers he doesn't know. The ONLY reason I'm posting his number is because he lists it in all of his for sale ads and on ebay...so, don't want anyone to think I'm hoe'in J out... 215-880-1990

I've scrapped two Motion Pros I think, Shane....it's all in the luck man...what can you do?

I bought my used 10 mil crank beginning of this year, 200 bucks. I put a TZ bearing on the PTO side, dissasembled and checked all other bearings, and pressed/trued/welded it. Ran fine all year... Will be checking bearings and the like again once I tear it down to freshen it up...but, no problems here.

WAY too much paddle for your bike.

Yep, and it was a year old Ricky Stator flywheel off my 4 mil from last year.... What a waste...

Did you line the case half split with the mark on the plate you desired your timing to be at? (+4 is the norm) Did you reset the flywheel to pickup coil air gap? Should be .015 to .018, and check each magnet on the flywheel... With your temps and mods, here's where I'd start. 1.0 turns out on the air screws. Leave the stock pilots in there. 300 mains. Needle on the 4th clip down from the blunt end (if it's Toomey/Dynojet needle, there are 6 grooves total, 4th from the top is the starting point) Do one jetting change at a time...and warm the bike up completely before you ride it for the results. If changing the pilot and/or needle clip position don't improve things, go back to the electrical system. You hooked the carbs back up correctly, right? Choke tube in place, didn't swap bowls, slides in the right carb....

Yep...ditto. Had to weld that puller on two flywheels to get them off though....sucks when you lose a 10 dollar tool AND flywheel all in one shot...

Use A&B Epoxy...by Moroso.... Until you can get a new axle and hub.

That is EXACTLY how the addiction starts...I promise. To be honest, it's cheaper if you tear it down when it's worn (lower cylinder PSI) then waiting for something to break...but that's on you... Anytime you start to mod anything, look at the big picture. More HP you'll need better tires, longer swinger, gearing, better clutch, freer flowing exhaust to compliment the carbs, etc... You'll spend $1 for every .50 cent you thought you were going to spend....

Odd... Bonbon...don't take any of this as doubting you, it's not. It's more or less my mechanical curiousity as to "why"...that's all...

Nope...sure won't.

Kevin Gigot, Gigot Racing...give him a call. http://gigotracing.com/index.php?option=co...ct&Itemid=3

In addition to what Jbooker said....yes, you can use them. I've used fuel pump style 39mm snomo carbs setup for alky on my bike all year until I got better carbs. They work very well.. But you'd be wasting your time...

If it squished out right, something else it wrong... Either a worn bearing or the head/dome was improperly installed and it moved..etc. What did it squish out at...just for conversations sake...and did you check both sides, parallel with the wrist pin? Loco...I'm thinking Mike's side is tails right now...that's sure what he's getting kicked in...

bonbon...sorry about your luck. But...if the squish was good on one side, why was it tapping the dome? Only other thing it could be is a bad bearing on the big or little end of the crank... Sorry to hear... I've seen quite a few people get raped over the whole clean up thing. I didn't pay a dime for clean up from Jeff on my 4 mil last year, and he did a fantastic job on it... I'm sure SoCalinIt will vouch, he has my old motor. I cleaned up my 10 mil, but no where NEAR as good as Jeff did... As said, I haven't done a lot of biz with Mike, but my boy has...however, my buddy never had a motor done by Mike. Sorry to hear about this... I'd like to hear Mike's response to be honest....there are always two sides to every coin.

While I can't speak for Mike or Kiel regarding their dealings, myself (only a few dealings) and more so my friend jankab have had a TON of dealings with Mike and have always had good results. if there was a problem, which...hey, no one is perfect...it got worked out and it was all good. I know Mike has had some personal things in life take a bad turn lately...and it's not my business or place to say any more than that about it. He's always done right by me. I'm sorry this happened to Greg, I'm sorry he had issues with Kiel...but let's not all jump on the bandwagon and kick him while he's down. He's made plenty of people happy as well... Now if a bunch more people chime in and have legitmate gripes over past business with him...than so be it. But I think all of you know I'm on the forums all day long, not much gets by me. And Greg and Kiel are the first I know to have issues with him of this size.... We can't make all make everyone happy all the time...

Since it doesn't have a lockup, I'm going to assume it doesn't have an override in it yet...right?

How well did you search?? http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=65674&hl=

Take the air filter and air box off and start it up. Now obviously this will lean it out...but you should be able to start the bike with the seat removed, touch the throttle... If the slides stick, you'll see it. If the slides go down as normal...then you have a serious air leak.

I would lose a couple of bucks on buddies jobs just fuck with them like that...if I could paint...