dajogejr

beat me to it Jeff... YOu said these are new carbs...as in new...STOCK carbs? 200 main is too small for a piped bike. But you have other issues. If the carbs checkout ok with what fastoys suggested, start looking electrical again. Your bike will be LEAN as all hell up top, but....it should at least run past idle. Broken magnets in the flywheel, failing stator, failing CDI....bad coil caps...test 'em all.

I think they should compliment your motor fine...however, to be honest, I have no Easy way of telling you how much porting is done. You can tell what surfaces have been touched, but you'd actually have to measure size and shapes of ports, port timing in relation to piston travel, etc. to find out how much has actually been done. Problem is with porting, if you don't know what you're doing, you can very easily be worse off than no porting at all....

ask wesw...he's the resident expert with PJs...

You know you can get a set of marvin comps all the way around for 500 bucks or less, right?? No way I'd pay that much...

Roost boost, garbage...you don't want to get into PVL. adjust your timing via the plate. 4 pokes need boxes to raise the rev limiter, two strokes don't have limiters via the ignition. If your motor is ported, 1 of 3 things is the problem here: a. Whoever ported it can't port shit b. The bike is out of serious tune (you said it's fresh...so worn out should be ruled out) c. You can't ride ... A mildly ported shee in good tune, fresher motor that can get traction with a decent rider should beat an HRC 'quipped 450R. If your bike was bolt on only, I'd say this is about par....

Yep...sure is. Thanks JT...

If that doesn't work out, home skillet, I've purchased this before. It's the whole kit and kaboodle, tube, bearings, bushings, seals...etc. http://www.magicracing.com/Pivot-Works-Off...p_462-4343.html

200 shipped with a title? What planet are you from??? pm minkia38...he has a ton of frames and will ship them via greyhound bus, which is the absolute cheapest you can ship them. No way you're getting a straight, usable frame with title shipped for 200 bucks...

Replied. NO Lockout, this is for the cover only, what you see in the pic is what you get!!!!

Upload the pic to imageshack.us Copy and paste the thumbnail for forums(1) link here....

Hey guys like it says, direct drive lock-up cover with billet water pump cover and water pump internals, 250 shipped PM me for details of if interested.

First thing I'd try is another flywheel, see if that cures your problem. Then...if the gap is still that different, time to check the true of your crank.

Posting up for my buddy...PM me for details... 68 mm bore cub top end. Ported by Tyson racing, cut domes, cool head, 4 mill standard rod crank, pistons, studs, 35mm intakes, and V-force 3 reeds. The cylinder bores will be honed and have a couple small marks but the nickisil is in good condition, the pistons do have some wear but can the set-up can be run as is. 1500 shipped

Some tracks are more stringent than others... Obviously, you can't run a motor without oil...but, coolant takes time to clean up, since you're only running WOT for a few seconds at a good clip, really don't need antifreeze/coolant, water works just fine.

As well as water in your cooling system instead of antifreeze.... Check the rules of the track you plan on running on... Generally...NHRA has rules, but the track may have it's own outside of NHRA....

Call Jim at Passion and see what he recommends. He will know better than anyone where his motor likes fuel. The pilot jet and air screw work together. The pilot jet allows fuel into the low speed circuit, the air screw is adjusted to mix air with that fuel supplied by the pilot jet. Pilot air screw effect idle to just past 1/8 throttle....that's it. I think 30 pilot is too big for a motor still running an airbox, but....if the Passion motor likes a TON of fuel at lower RPMs, then it could be ok. I think it's too rich off idle, by the time it gets to the needle (past 1/8 throttle) it is still cleaning itself out. Once you get into higher gears/RPMs it is cleaned up and starts to pull.... PLEASE, only adjust one circuit at a time, pilot/air screw, needle or main. Changing multiple circuits at the same time will only complicate things. Start by putting a stock pilot in there at turning the air screw out 1.0 turns. Usually too much fuel causes a bog. When it's lean, it'll "surge" or raise the RPM, it'll sound like it wants to rev but no power.... Tell you what, there's a couple great jetting thread how to's for stickys at the top of this forum. Read them, twice....they could probably answer all of your questions and guide you best.

Put the stock pilots back in (25s) put your air screws at 1 turn out...

Power side of the crank (Power Take Off). The majority of the stress on the crank is on the clutch side, it is the side that transferrers power via gears to the clutch, to the transmission. The other side only spins a flywheel to create spark/energy.

You figure sleds run on gas....but they can be held at 5 to 8 K for miles and miles if the trails are right...so, they gotta have a pump. If you had a small motor for 300 foot, you might be ok...for the price of a pump though, I sure wouldn't chance it... Bad things happen at 10K with no fuel/oil...LOL...

I don't know if they're interchangeable or not. They sure as hell look cool though!!! My buddy just told me they won't work on cubs due to the extra material on the intakes and exhaust sides (triple exhaust and boost ports intake side)... So...that's out for me...

All depends, Shane... How long the run is, gas or alky.... I'd say for long runs or alky, no... Shorter runs, gas...probably be ok. Shane, the pump we all use is 47 bucks, I can get it for you...Sport Mart over by me. Drill your cylinder near the intakes....done. Never worry about running out of gas... I'm sure not all sled carbs are pumper carbs...but due to the tank location, I have to think the majority of them are.

Yep...was kinda thinking the same thing. One man's loss...another's gain.

Reinforcments. Notice the 4 extra holes on the 4 corners, the stud screws onto the base stud of the cylinder...and it reinforces it.

Sorry to dig up the past, but I remember you recently went through a NASTY divorce. Are you back up and running 100% now? What is the price, and do you have any big bore domes as well?

Odd... I worked on a bike that the guy removed the orings, put a stocker back on and it made a terrible clatter...he neglected to tell me he removed them until WAY later in the job... Racked my brain big time, inner and outer hubs looked ok, basket had slight grooving, not too much, every thing looked good. Had him buy a new set of fibers and steels, and by looking at the new fibers something was just off... Measured them both and sure enough the stockers have a bigger ID than the aftermarket. The stocker fibers and steels weren't smoked, measured within spec... I put the aftermarket in, no more noise...and to this day he's still riding it...was a few years ago. weird.... I'm not saying you're wrong, but after measuring them up...I can't see how they won't clatter without that O Ring there, I mean there's a mm or two of difference that has to be made up...fluid alone can't cushion that much.