dajogejr

Man that's shitty... I don't always see eye to eye with the Passion group, but that's besides the point. Hope Jim and his family/loved ones are safe and keeping warm... (Hope that shop has some generator heat of some kind... )

I would love to just beat the ever living shit out of those bastards... I'm not a PETA activist, but that's cruelty, any way you slice it... That clip is disturbing, I couldn't make it past the first few seconds of the vid.

Justin... You still over in Italy? I got 4 or 5 of them laying around. You've hooked me up...5 bucks shipped to the US. Where do I send one?

Nope, none of it is sold. I've got two 13 tooth and 1 12 tooth. What do you want?

Actually...I can make this easier than hunting down and listing parts. Here's the auction I won...it's already laid out on the ground what's in the box. I've tossed the trashed clutches, the stock exhaust mid pipes...a trashed basket and inner/outer... I literally sorted through this in 5 minutes.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...626446&rd=1

One of them looks ok, the other is missing the bulb and trim ring. The one that looks good...I can't see the fillament broken or anything...no real way to test it. Can take whatever pics you'd like... I only found one clamp, the billet one. I have two new rubber seals, though...if that helps. No chain slider...sorry.

Bought a bunch of parts off a local guy, really wanted the box o parts for the crank. Got a bunch of stuff here....one of the two kill switches I promised to JT....he gets first dibbs. See anything you need in the pic, let me know... I'll sell it for peanuts plus shipping... To be 100% honest, I just got home and barely rummaged through the box. Two kill switches, bunch of levers, stock pipe mounts, carb boots for the carb/airbox, new Scott Hurricane MX grips, all the rad hoses including the one from the water pump to the back of the head. A few overflow coolant bottles (great for purge gas/oil for the alky guys) If you want to get rid of that stupid boost bottle, there's three crossover tubes... a couple of 13 tooth front sprockets and one 12 tooth... Let me know, I'm sure it's in there.

Take the top of the thumb throttle off, push it all the way, stick your finger in the back of the carb and make sure the slide is all the way up. You should fee the top of the venturi even with the bottom of the carb slide. If not...see if the lever that the throttle cable hooks to is hitting the inside of the throttle housing. If it is...grind it so the lever can be pushed further...

Still have your airbox?

Uh...huh huh huh...you said "Polish"... Sorry...that was just too damn funny to let it go...LOL.

What are ALL your mods to start with. Are the carbs perfectly sync'd? Running a LOT of premix oil? Fresh gas/oil in the tank. Fresh plugs? Clean air filter(s)

Fitting bigger carbs, aftermarket pipes and an airbox is always a tight fit... Most people that start getting motors ported, better pipes and bigger carbs will remove the airbox and get pod filters. Wes is 100% dead on, cutting loops off the spring only changes the ratio, it'll be easier to push at partial throttle, but the same at WOT, making it feel stiffer... Sand the edges around the spring (LIGHTLY, as suggested) and it'll be better. Make sure you are getting WOT by holding the throttle wide open and checking to be sure the slides are going up all the way too... When I had my 35s, before I had my SRP aftermarket throttle, I had to grind a little material out of the stock thumb throttle to allow the lever to travel all the way and get WOT out of the carbs.

Not saying you're wrong, but I'm 99% certain only one of the stock carb float bowls has that tube.... I tried looking up on Riva Yamaha Parts fiche, they only show one carb view exploded... If you don't need to start your bike dead cold with the choke, it's rich on the bottom. Once it's warmed up...you shouldn't need your choke. Or...if it's very, VERY warm out, you may not need the choke on a dead cold motor. Try turning each air screw all the way in, till they're lightly seated, count the turns. Then turn each one out 1 full turn farther than they were in the first place. See if this helps. If you have to turn the air screws farther than 2.5 turns out to get it to run right at low RPM, normally that means smaller pilots. But stock 25 pilots are the smallest they have, I'd bet you just need to turn the air screws out... IN addition, as said...check the float level. Make sure the needle and seat in the carb are clean, too. I've seen the rubber tip on some needles have a ring worn in it from normal age/wear/tear and replacing it made the needle/seat seal properly again....

I don't think so on stock carbs, Shane. One bowl has a tube (for the choke/fuel enrichment circuit) the other doesn't have a tube at all. I'm pretty sure (not positive) the only overflow tubes on stock carbs are the ones on the body on either side of the carb. On other carbs (say....PWK series) they're overflow. You snap that overflow tube off and run your power jets off them for us alky boys....

No. This is the drain tube for the carb bowls. Remove the screw on the bottom, clean that all out. I think there is a rubber oring on that drain screw...clean that passage out with solvent and compressed air, tighten it back down. Probably got dirt in there, or the oring is worn/torn... As far as it running like crap, it's probably either a clogged up pilot or misadjusted air screw...

FBTs, some GI Joes with the kung fu grip...LOL... Thanks for the update Cody...sucks, but that's part of business. Hope the Family is safe and ok...

Not as much as you would if you had static 8 degrees advance all the way across the RPM range..But in reality...yes. I had a dyna, and in my opinion, unless you have the time to get to a dyno and program it yourself for your motor, it's not worth it.

You've got PM.

If he was going to ride his bike at a 45 degree angle all the time, I'd agree with you, but for the occasional sloshing of fuel around the bowl, one float is suffice. To me, this thread is not about the functionality, it's about disclosure of what he was getting...

What was done to the banshee....?

I'd bet his reserver is higher than 200 bucks...

I agree...but you can't throw cranking compression out the window as one of the most important factors. between timing and cranking, they are the most important two. Squish band % to bore diameter is another...for example.

Honestly, you're better off selling them outright on here, Planet Sand, Everything 2 stroke or on ebay. Find a used 4 mil cub from one of the same places... I don't think you're gonna have much luck upgrading for someone else to down grade... Good luck...!!

There's a few guys on here that run Power Valve RZ motors on their Shees...try searching for them. I think rzbansheeman is one of them, he's in MI somewhere....

What are your mods, current jetting, temps and elevation. It should idle without giving it any throttle. Do you still have the tors on?