dajogejr

I would let your builder tickle loco's bung hole with a feather, as long as he wore a blindfold and was chewing on a tic tac. But he'd have to use both hands on the feather, otherwise, it'd be like cheating.

http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/...=372&page=1

Milo... These are questions you should be asking HJR...take nothing for granted. Too many times people just slap something on and go.... Ask him what gasket to use on your setup.

Sell your bike please....

Guys...unless he's going somewhere else to ride...he needs the flag for Silver Lake. And there's hardly a tree in sight at the dunes, and this is going on a drag bike if I'm not mistaken. If so...a regular old mount works fine. Your bike goes over that far...you got bigger issues than breaking a flag off....

They do not. Banshees are not a recirculating system like on a car. It is just that...an overflow or catch can. I would start it up with straight water in it...run it and see if you can see coolant passing through the radiator. If so...you could have a head gasket leaking slightly, bad cap as said... If you don't see any coolant passing, it's a plugged passage, hose...or most likely a shot impeller or stripped gear.

Yep. Clean the bejesus out of the carbs, clean and oil the air filter and get fresh spark plugs, as well as fresh gas and oil. Start there.

There is a lot of numbers that can account for popping Orings. Squish, squish band, dome stepping, cc volume are a few of the main factors. I run 20cc domes with a generous .050 to .055 squish (ran .055 and .056 in my motor last time, but fresh build, etc.) You'll find tighter squish with a slightly larger band will be fine for short runs (a la 300 foot) but that same dome won't last long on a trail bike or pavement bike that is held WOT for longer than a few seconds. cc those domes if you can, it sounds like it might be too late for a squish test. David Noss will have to know what kind of piston you are using, a banshee type (WSM in a big bore) or a blaster type (Wiseco) The dome angle has everything to do with the shape/crown angle of the piston you're using.

Scott...as I'm more than sure you're aware of this (more or less a note for other members) cranking PSI should not be used as a true indicator for race/pump fuel. It can barely be used as a guide. UCCR or static compression should be used, not cranking compression. No fuel on the face of the planet says it's ok to run at 180 Cranking PSI. It will, however, be cleared for 13:1, 14.5:1, etc. Generally, I've seen stock heads run 22 to 25ccs. If you're going to go more than .020, I would strongly suggest rechambering the heads.

Good thing you set us all straight on that...cause for a brief minute I thought I was going to have to go to my plantation and whip a few people into shape..... Give me a break, it's 2009. You pull a shady deal, and fall back on that shit? He's not doing shit for you Damian....and then he pulls out the race card...unbelievable... You sent him cylinders that according to you only needed plating, ended up needing welding too...so besides from not knowing the difference between needing plating and needing welding, water damage (still don't know what the f that means) and pitted pistons and dome, and you still think sheefreak owes you something, and he's in the wrong. Loco....axe this bum... I don't know of his other bad deals, but I've done a tone or business with NYUK, good and a bad one, and we worked shit out and made things right. He's the straightest shooter on this board, no BS. Loco, I'm sure you're tired of reading this crap, we all are...but IMO sheefreak has legitimate gripes...and this guy is laughing and clowning, them big bank ballla tells us about how many bikes he has AND a big motor he's gonna build....but can't fork out change to make this right. That deal wreaks....period.

Location, Location, Location.... Banshees that sell her in MI for 1500 to 2Gs sell in California or out west for double that...

Buy the YFZ...sell it for a 500 to 1000 dollar profit, then buy a banshee and use that profit to mod it. The YFZ is a better deal, hands down. You can find stock pipes banshees all day long for that kinda price.... This is a banshee site, so of course many will tell you to buy the banshee. The YFZ is a stellar deal, and they're great bikes.

You can delete it...but I'm posting it up. yea ok i did b/c i thought thats what caused that.. when he said pitted i was thinkin about chunks of metal stuck into the piston like i've seen before.. You have 5 bikes in your stable, but you don't know the difference between water/moisture marks and pitting on a dome or piston? And you're building a big ass DMX???? By the way...what is moisture damage?

You also said a piston and dome had moisture but were ready to run with no damage....when they were clearly pitted.

It'll be a real ear catcher with no pipes just silencers on it.... Sometimes you just gotta laugh.

Honestly Utley....I wouldn't take a used piston from you anymore either. It's clear you're passing off junk AND you think it's a fucking joke.... maybe we all don't have the money for 5 to 6 quads laying around and/or we are a little more careful on how we spend our money.... I don't know if it's the light, but this piston looks like the dome/edge is starting to come up (deto) http://img15.imageshack.us/my.php?image=0012y.jpg

Seriously....that was some funny shit right there, I don't care who you are.... Bump!!!

Damien... What kind of cylinder is this exactly? I know it's a cub... But is it a 10 mil, 68 bore, 115 rod cub? Does it need WSM or Wiseco Pistons? My buddy ordered 5 sets of domes, he only needs 3 sets. I will give you pistons at my cost to try and help out. PM me however I can help you....

Polish them up and use then as some type of holder on your desk. Unless you have bigger carbs on stock jugs... Behind the reeds (towards the carbs) is the common use. In front actually does increase crank case volume a hair. That may benefit some motors, some it may not. Probably nothing you'll ever see or feel in the trails or track, MAYBE on a dyno...a big Maybe. That doesn't equate to a larger combustion chamber volume, it equates to a bigger crankcase volume....where the fuel is delivered from, not compressed and ignited. That's why I asked where he came up with that equation...

You can also put a check valve cap on your breather hoses. they'll allow fluid or air to escape, but not enter the cases. Kinda like the one in a stock gas cap.... Though I really doubt that's the issue....I agree on the water pump seal. While you're at it, remove the water pump and check the fins/blades on it. The plastic ones are known to wear and start breaking/chipping apart. If you show any signs of this, pickup a billet impeller.

I've gottena TORS removal kit from him. Any chance you fuggered the holes when you drilled/tapped them, and/or didn't use the locknut they supply with the kit. Did you grind the carb boss flat so the lock nut could seat properly? Never had a problem with their stuff.... I don't buy into their "power piston" or "ported piston" crap they push, but they make good products overall, and have just about everything OEM you'd need without having to go to a dealer (like specialty hoses, lockwashers, etc)

I run a billet clutch cover so I can take off/remove/replace my clutch if it goes out, without having to take the whole side cover off (read kick starter, pegs, etc.) I run a billet stator cover for the same reason. I can take off the center to remove the flywheel, etc. I can remove and replace the front sprocket by removing that small plate, vs the whole cover.... Are they for everyone? No... But that wasn't the question. You asked about it's functionality....so there you go.

Please tell me exactly how you came to that conclusion.

I've dealt with all parties involved on one occasion or another. I can tell you I got a stator from utley in a pretty timely manner and for a fair price (I've yet to use it...however) I know sheefreak personally. And I see him all the time at the track, etc. I will vouch for him and his character 100%. I truly wanted to stay out of this....but Damian is my friend...and I back my friends. Whether my opinion belongs here or not. I myself would be VERY weary of sending him the parts back after all this BS. What is the guarantee he'll refund the money? And refund it in a timely fashion? Then he's out parts (albeit junk parts) and money.... Damian....I would DEFINITELY send the parts via USPS with tracking and confirmation or Fed Ex/UPS. If he does not refund your money, that's mail fraud and a federal offense. Keep all your information gathered up.

Zep and Sred making their rounds again....WOW... I can smell the Ben Gay and Geritol in the air.... then again, that could just be NYUK. Good to see you guys...