IrideA250R

I would take the head off and measure the stroke, then you'll know better what crank it has in it. It sounds like you don't have matching parts to me.

I would run 35mm Keihin PWK's

whoa wait a minute..you rebuilt the banshee with a new crank and pistons, and the pistons hit the head? That doesn't seem right to begin with...also, while judging fuel requirements on cranking PSI may be decently accurate with a stockish Banshee, with one that has been modified you need to be more concerned with compression ratio. A high exhaust port may show lower cranking compression, when in fact the actual compression ratio is high enough to require race fuel.

good choice, you will like them a lot.

:biggrin: I'm glad someone else found it useful! It's a great add in!

I install Ad Block in Firefox, and right click the annoying sig pictures and block them. Really slims the forums up and makes them much easier to read.

T5's? if so, good choice.

well, here in MN the high temps have been struggling to even hit 0. I have my stock carbs jetted with a 280 main, 2nd clip from bottom on the needle, and 30 pilots. I've just run it around the block a few times though. I have real similar mods as you do minus the head. I would probably start in the 320 range on the main and go from there.

I agree, sounds like it could be a little lean to me.

they are matched, but I've replaced just the left side on several 250R engines without any problem. Best price on the case half I've seen (new) is servicehonda.com good luck

I'll take the 19's. Do Paypal? PM me the addy if you do

the plate stripped, not the bolt. Then the bolt fell off inside and ruined another flywheel and stator. They were always real nice and warrantied the stators, but enough is enough. There are other companies out there winding stators like Ricky Stator used to back in the day. This is totally off topic, but I'm considering winding my own stator when I decide to go high output. It shouldn't be too hard.

I have a friend who has had 5, yes 5 different Ricky Stator stators and timing plates. Each time a ride of his was ruined by the screws breaking, stripping, or falling out. The last one had the grade 8 bolts, he applied loctite and torqued them to spec, and they still stripped and fell out. Since RS started getting their stuff from China and not rewinding them themselves, they have totally gone in the gutter quality wise. It's really too bad because I used to really push RS products 4-5 years ago.

severe detonation from an airleak or too lean of jetting.

it might be anti-seize?

I received my billet timing plate from Chariot today and it installed flawlessly, much better than stripping out screws on the cast Ricky Stator one!

generally, the colder the air temperature, the more oxygen it will hold. This means as it gets colder, you richen up your jetting. You can definitely harm the bike by running summer jetting in the winter, as it will lean the bike out a lot and cause it to seize.

sounds like a set of T5's would be right up your alley. $505 shipped with silencers in chrome from Rocky Mountain.

I understand just fine how a snowmobile clutch works. I've been around ATV's and snowmobiles all my life living here in Minnesota. My point was (and seems to have been lost) that snowmobile engine technology is leaps and bounds ahead of what is in a Banshee, and in sleds that still use carbs, they have twin carbs because they perform better! Hell, your own carb test on a mild engine shows an impressive power gain just by switching to dual carbs on a mild motor. Imagine a fully built one, damn! Anyways, I see this going no where. I'm agreeing to disagree here. I'll take dual carbs on my Banshee any day over a single.

port layout, intake design, reed design, head design, pipe design, ignition design, carburetion/fuel injection, oil injection nozzles in bottom end just to name a few. Basically modern 2 strokes have a lot of years of innovation, engineering, and trial and error put into them. Look at a car engine of 20 years ago even, compared to todays engines, at least double the power, and probably half the emissions. It's much the same with 2 stroke designs.

it looks to me that the material between the water jacket and where the dome goes is pushed into the water channel a little bit.

I couldn't disagree more. Using your analogy, why would snowmobiles bother to have powervalves? Modern snowmobile engines are close to 40 years advanced to our OEM style Banshee cylinders. At a constant speed and throttle position, yes snowmobile clutches do maintain a constant RPM, but if you are off the gas at all, they downclutch and the rpm's drop. The transmissions are different, but the idea is the same. Anyways, my opinion is that a single carb is NOT worth it.

you don't? Where we ride it's not just pin it and forget about it, I can tell you that.

I was just pointing it out for the other guys posting in this thread, as they were saying you should have more compression.

100LL is fine. I ran over 300 gallons of it through my 250R's in a couple of years time, and it works great.