fastbanshee8

What do the plugs look like? That will help us tremendously.

Damn man, that's bad. Hell, a few weeks ago, someone walked up in our backyard, and stabbed 5 holes in our 15 foot pool, that is for our 7 year old daughter. Fucking thieves, and vandals should be shot, hung, taken for a drag, and repeated until death.

The link you found on ebay, is the wrong one. The axle I have is up to +2 on each side, and besides, it's the wrong seller. I'm not eating the shipping on the one I have. I'll let it sit in the corner, and rot.

I said $150, plus shipping. Take it, or leave it, because it's not negotiable. I'm already losing $50 on the axle, and I'm not adding another $20 or so to it.

This axle also uses the stock hubs, and rotors.

The axle can be adjusted from stock length, to +1 each side, to +2 each side. The total length on the axle is 40 1/2", outside, to outside. Here are the pics.

I've got a brand new extended axle, and I think it's a plus 4. I gave $200, plus shipping for it. I can get pics if you want. I guess I can let it go for $150, plus shipping. PM me if interested.

That's real funny. Those are my pics, and my bike, and the bike, and the pipes aren't for sale.

I found out that Ebay isn't the best choice. Try Fast Racing for your parts. Sounds like you need to go with a 4mil stock cylinder, instead of a cub. The stockers will be more trail friendly, and can still be used for dragging.

Is your timing advanced? If so, how much?

Have you tried replacing the spark plug boots? If those start screwing up, it can cause all kinds of weird crap to happen.

20 ft. lbs, and the torque sequence is the same as the stock head.

The K&N for the stock airbox is the one that fits the filter plate adaptors. As far as I know, there's only one K&N filter that will fit the stock air box.

Check with FAST Racing, he's a site sponsor. Your cylinders won't last as long with cheap pistons, because the pisons wear out, or break quicker, and making you have to bore them faster. Cheap is nice, but nice isn't cheap.

It'll end up costing you more in the long run. Run Wiseco Pro Lites. The others don't last, and it will cost you more for machine work, and top end kits, not to mention the fact that your cylinders won't last as long.

Take both carbs off, one at a time, and remove the float bowl. Take out the main jets, and the pilot jets, and clean them really good, especially the holes that run through them, and also clean out the passages that they screw into. Put everything back together, and adjust both air mixture screws 1.5-2 turns open. Make sure both are opened the same, and don't forget to put the choke tube back in place, if you're using the stock carbs. Hard starting is usually a sign of being too lean. Try the stuff above, and let us know.

Part of your problem is your pilot jets. The Fatty's like a richer pilot jet. You are going to need some 27.5 pilot jets, or even richer, if it's ported.

That's FUGLY as HELL.

Damn man, that's real hot. I just converted it over to Fahrenheit, and that's 302 degrees. You will be lucky if you don't end up having to rebuild the top end. I'd pull the clutch cover, and make sure the water pump impeller, water pump gear, bearing, and seal is okay. Now would be a good time to put in a billet impeller. The water pump may have failed causing it to get that hot, and then mess up the o-rings. The head may be warped also. Good luck.

Hard starting, revving up without applying any throttle, staying revved up after letting off of the throttle, or dropping RPMs very slowly after letting of the throttle are sure signs that you have a lean condition. It could be caused by plugged jets, air screws opened too far, or an air leak somewhere. I don't know what made him spray the carb cleaner, but what I mentioned above are sure signs of problems.

Start by checking with one of the site sponsors, like Fast Racing. Somebody will have them, or should know where to get them cheaper.

Hard starting is usually a pretty good sign of a lean condition, and since the carb cleaner made it rev, you can pretty much be assured, that you do have an air leak. Your pilot jets could also be plugged, so now would be a good time to take them apart, and clean them, while removing the intakes to check everything there. To be safe, I'd say to change out the gaskets on the intakes, and reed cages, and make sure the intakes aren't cracked, as someone already mentioned.

When you race the DS, launch in 2nd, and don't look back.

Check the gap between the flywheel, and the pick up coil. You should be able to fit a match book cover in between them.