fastbanshee8

No, they don't go in, any certain way. Put them in, one set of reeds to the top, and the other set to the bottom. Both sets of cages are the same, so there isn't a right, or left.

You need to go to a bigger size pilot jet. What size, I don't know, because I have very little experience with Keihin carbs. One or two sizes bigger on the pilot will usually fix the problem, and then adjust the air mixture screws.

Yes, and that's why I said that you can over carb, or put too big of carbs on a motor. The concensus that I've got from reading on this site is, that 30mm carbs are big enough, for a stock Banshee motor, with bolt ons. Put porting, stroker cranks, drag pipes, and/or aftermarket cylinders, on one, and then you can use bigger carbs. The air flowing through the carb siphons the gas up from the bowl, so getting more air flowing through the carb, causes more gas to be sucked up out of the bowl. Bigger carbs=more air+more fuel, if something in, or on the motor isn't choking the air flow down. Personally, I say you have way more carb than you need, for your motor. I'm running 34mm flatslides with a 4mm stroker, and CPI inframes, plus porting, and a few more odds, and ends. You have bolt ons, with 35mm carbs, which is way more carb than your motor needs.

A bigger carb will pull more fuel through a jet, than a smaller carb, but the larger carb will also flow more air. More air, and fuel equals more power. It's not the same amount of fuel. Re-read my post. Bigger carbs flow more air, and fuel, and that's why they give the power increase.

A bigger carb doesn't always mean more power. You can over carb a motor. A bigger carb will flow more air, so the motor needs more fuel to keep it from leaning out. A 34mm carb will pull more fuel through a 250 main, than a 28mm carb will, with the 250 main. Porting, pipes, and other performance parts will determine how big of carbs your motor needs. Remember, your motor is an air pump, and the more air you can put into it, the more power you will get out of it.

If it's leaking out the front, where the exhaust hooks up, then it has to be the o-ring. The left crank seal going bad, will usually cause an air leak, and lean condition. The right crank seal going bad, will usually cause trans fluid to be drawn into the right cylinder, and burned, causing excessive smoking out of the right silencer. Is there any oil on the bottom side of the pipe, where it hooks to the cylinder? I had a minor groove in the spout, where the pipe hooks on, and I had to fill it with some epoxy, before the o-ring would seal.

I got my last set from FAST racing. Give Jeff a call.

Did you install the pipes yourself? Did you put the o-rings in the pipes before installing them? Every Banshee pipe I've used, requires the o-rings to be taken out of the old pipes, and put in the new pipes, before installing the pipes.

Try replacing the o-ring inside the pipe, that seals the pipe to the cylinder. That should fix it.

Lower the gearing. Put a 13 tooth counter shaft sprocket on it, instead of the 14 tooth that comes on it stock. That will help it a bunch, but will make you have to shift quicker.

Most people agree that the only use for the reed spacers, is to move larger carbs back, so that they clear the clutch arm. No noticeable performance gains.

You set up a riding trip days, or weeks in advance, and someone that's invited shows up with their friggin' ATV, that's broke, and expects other people in the group to help them fix their POS.

Jeff @ Fast Racing has them. Click on his add, and it will take you to his site, so you can get all the info.

If the hole in the case isn't real bad, then why don't you have someone weld it up? That would be a lot cheaper, and faster, than finding, and buying different cases. Just find someone that welds aluminum. My builder has done this many times, without any problems.

If you want to dune, and drag, then the CPI's are better suited than the Shearer's. The Shearer's are a top end pipe, and unless you like clutching it a lot, to keep it in the power band, then get the CPI's.

It can't be off of the idler gear, unless someone replaced it with the E-clip, because the manual shows a snap ring, and after I typed that, I remembered replacing mine, and it was a snap ring. It's got to be off of the water pump shaft, or, it's off of one of the shift fork shafts. So far, the only E-clips in the bottom end that I've found in the Clymer's are on the shift shafts, and the water pump shaft. Hopefully it's off of the water pump shaft, so it's an easy fix.

I just looked in my manual, and it can't be off of the kick start idler gear, because that part is a snap ring. The water pump has an E-clip that goes on the end of the shaft, that holds the gear on, and that's where it must have came from.

The 7mm crank isn't a drop-in, like the 4mm crank is. You will have to get your cases trenched, so that the crank journals don't hit the bottom of your cases. As far as cylinders go, I think you can run up to a 10mm stroker on the stock cylinders, but I don't know what all is involved, other than trenching the cases for damned sure.

When the belt in the tire broke, it only had the "shakes", between 45, and 60 MPH. It was fine at lower speeds, and fine at higher speeds, but it hated certain speeds.

I had that happen years ago on a car of mine, and it was because of a broken belt in one of the tires. We didn't find it, until I had a flat, and went to get it fixed. I ended up buying a new tire.

Go to Cascade, and get the replacement rubber, for their aluminum exhaust clamps. The replacement hoses are $4-$5 each, and then you can just use your stock hose clamps on them. Here's the link;Cascade

Considering that you're a newb, and are wanting info, the name calling probably isn't very smart. It just shows how damned immature you really are. I wasn't being a homo, I just gave you my opinion, and you got all pissy. That's fine with me, because I have no use for people that act like you.

Nothing is cut off of the domes, but material is removed from the inside of them, because the pistons come up out of the cylinders 2mm, and go into the domes. The main thing on the port job for a 4mm is that the transfer ports are raised, and lowered 2mm, to get the port timings correct, or so I've been told.

It allows the front edge of the remaining knobs to get a bigger, or deeper bite, since the tire has a bigger gap between the knobs.

I ran both types of FMF pipes, the Gold series, and the Fatty's. There is a difference, and you can tell it, if you put both sets of pipes on the same bike, without changing anything else. The Fatty's hit harder in the mid-range, and rev'd out further, than the Gold series, or at least they did on mine. It's kind of like comparing the T-5's, to the T- 6's. Some people like the T-5's, and some like the T-6's. It's all a matter of personal preference, and riding style.