fastbanshee8

Really loud pipes don't do anything, but get more people bitching about our sport, and wanting to close down riding areas. If you want loud, stick your head in an empty 55 gallon steel drum, and have someone hit it a couple of times with a sledge hammer. Loud pipes have caused some riding areas to enforce a 96dB maximum exhaust sound level. Loud doesn't always mean faster.

The 795 series Wiseco pistons are to be ran if, and only if you are running a +5mm longer rod. And yes, you can get a 4mm stroker, longrod crank. Stock rod length on a Banshee is 110mm, and the longrod is 115mm. The 795 series Wiseco's have the wrist pin moved higher up on the piston, so that the pison will not hit the head. Now for the stroker crank. To be able to run the 4mm stroker crank with your stock cylinders, you have two choices. 1.) Have the domes for your aftermarket head cut, so that the pisons won't hit them, or 2.) run a spacer plate. The 4mm stroker crank has the pin on the crank moved out 2mm, which adds 2mm at TDC, and 2mm at BDC. If you run the 795 series Wiseco's with a stock length rod 4mm stroker crank, your compression will end up being a lot lower, because the 795's are made to accomidate the 5mm longer rods, and you are only adding 4mm of stroke with the crank, so your pistons would end up being 1mm lower in the cylinders, at TDC.

I did some reading on the Duncan site, and I did find this bit of info about the Pyramid Reeds. "Reed pedal life will vary depending on the RPM range used. The higher the RPM range of usage, the lower the reed pedal life will be. Life can vary from 10-100 hours and should be checked during regular top end maintenance. " I've had a set of V-Force II's almost since they came out, and I've only replaced the reeds once. In my opinion, if you have the money for the V-Force's, then buy them, because you won't find anything better.

I'm surprised that no one has said anything about the air mixture screws yet. How many turns open are they, and are both of them open the same amount of turns? If the air mixture screws are not adjusted correctly, it will make it run like shit.

No, the plastic piece with the foam on the front, is a stock part, but it's probably been modified, so that the K & N will attach to it. You need this part, select Yamaha, Pro-Flow Filter kit, and scroll down, and look for banshee K & N filter plate only.

"Hard to find in this condition"??? Looks like it's been rode hard, and put up wet quite regularly. Check out all the slack in the chain. LOL.

Do what you want to do, because it's your bike, and your money. As long as you're happy, nothing else matters.

You might be able to find something that you like here, Graphics. My bike used to be the color of yours, but since those colors are fairly old, it's harder to find very many graphics kits for the 1996 red/yellow. I looked for some of the companies that used to make them, but it appears that they don't carry them, and/or make them anymore.

Just be carefull when you "whack it ", so that you don't bust a nut, or a bolt. :biggrin:

If you're talking about the stock Banshee silencers, there isn't any packing in them.

Jesus, talk about robbing someone. Nice bike, and one helluva deal. :biggrin:

Could be the spark plugs, and/or spark plug boots. Try new plugs, and if that doesn't change anything, then get some new plug boots, cut about 1/4" off the ends of the wire, and screw the new ones on. New plug boots should only be $4-$5 each, at the most.

I'm running the FAST clutch, with all 6 heavy springs, but I got an E-Z pull lever, and perch from FAST Racing, and now it pulls just as easy, or easier than a stock clutch. I got the lever with the needle bearing in it, and I highly recommend it. It cost me around $40 for the perch, and lever, but don't quote me on that. You can check the FAST site, and get the prices.

I found out 6 years ago, that sand, particularly wet sand will break bones. I broke 5 ribs on my left side, and that really sucked. A couple of years later, I shattered my right collar bone in one place, and almost twisted it into, in another spot, so I know what kind of pain your going through. Keep taking the pain meds as directed, and get healed up. Good luck.

Either your float in the right carb is set too high, or the needle, and seat above the float is dirty, or worn out. If you have a Clymer's manual, it will tell you how to set the float height, and/or take out the needle, and seat for cleaning, or replacement. There are several threads on here, about adjusting the float height, and cleaning carbs, so try the search function for those. If the float height is correct, and cleaning the needle, and seat doesn't change anything, then you will have to replace the needle, and seat. If the needle, and seat needs replaced, it would be a good idea to change them in both carbs.

If you are going to own a Banshee, one of the first things that you should buy is a Clymer's manual. It tells you how to fix a lot of things, step by step, and with pics. It's a great investment.

Other than what's been listed for you to check already, it could also be worn sprockets, and chain. The chain may be jumping teeth on the back sprocket causing the noise. Look at the teeth, and if they are rolled over on the tips, then you need a new chain, and both sprockets. Just something else to check out.

Mine does the same thing, but I never had to pull start it. Try turning on the gas, a few minutes prior to trying to start it, and choke it also. I think that hauling them, tends to make the fuel in the carb bowls, either run out the over flow tubes, or evaporate.

If your compression tester is known to be good, then 60 lbs. is very low. Personally, I wouldn't even start it, let alone ride it, until the top end was rebuilt. A top end rebuild is recommended at 100 lbs. or lower, and if you can turn the motor over with your hand that easy, then it's definately time to rebuild it. By running it, you could end up breaking a pison skirt, and cracking the cases, and/or destroying the crank, besides tearing up the cylinder walls, and breaking a rod. If you keep running it with that low of compression, then you will have a huge repair bill.

The CPI silencers are bigger in diameter, than the Fatty's are, so the fit will be really sloppy, plus the length is probably wrong, and the bend on the silencers is probably not right either. You could do it, but it might take some cutting, and welding, plus you would have a HELL of a mess, trying to seal the silencer to pipe joint up, since they are different sizes.

First, and foremost, make sure both carbs are clean, and are put together correctly. Most of the time, hard starting is because of, being too lean on the pilot jet. There are two things to do; 1). turn your air mixture screw in on both carbs, a quarter of a turn at a time, and see if that helps. If you get down to one turn out on the air mixture screw, or less, 2).install a bigger pilot. After turning in the air mixture screw, you will have to wait 20-30 seconds, to see what the difference is.

I realize that, but from the reading I've done, what I stated will be the case 90% of the time. You will always have a few cases that differ. :beer:

I had FMF Fatty's, and switched to CPI's, and if you plan on switching back, and forth, plan on rejetting with every pipe change. The FMF's like a fatter pilot, than the CPI's, and the CPI's like a fatter main, than the FMF's. It will be a lot easier, to pick one set of pipes, and figure your jetting out for those, than it will be, to switch back, and forth.

I got an E-Z pull lever, and perch from FAST Racing, and it was about $30-$35, plus a new clutch cable-$15. I'm running a FAST clutch with all 6 heavy springs, and my clutch pull is easier than when it was stock.

The Clymer's Manual says SAE 10W30 SE motor oil, but I tried it years ago, and it won't last very long. I've ran Gear Saver, and ATF Type F in my transmission. The ATF is cheaper by a lot, but you have to change it more frequently. You asked what to run, and people told you what they recommended, but if you want to go by the book, then that's fine too.