Animalman294

Ya, might get a carb sync tool from Jeff at FAST, I use one and it takes all the guess work out of it..................

Ya, I was thinking 330 or close to it myself..............

Try a 280-300, but start with the 300 because you can always come down, the pilot would be a 27.5 and ratio at about 32:1...........

I've always ran 32:1 and may try runnin' at 40:1 just to see how shee runs.............

Ya, I think my dad is runnin' like a 280-300 on his FMF's and at a 200 on your main and 25 on the pilot I think you are just a tad lean, putting it mildly.................

I'd definately go to a 30 on the pilot, but start with a higher main and check the plugs. That'll tell you which way to go from there...............

I use a can of ether or starting fluid, but you need to have the bike runnin' because the change in idle tells you where the leak is located. Check the basics, spark, fuel and air.............

I would also ditch those 28's and get a set of at least 33's...............

Ya, I think the bottom end of mine is similar to when I ran it stock. I mean I think it has a lot to do with the way my shee's set up, but I really love it when that power band hits and it hits pretty hard.............

Ya, I mostly run the sand, but occasionally I go down to the river and race my brother through trails. There has been a few really hard hits that have gotten my attention and I only have the stocker on their to protect the chain and the rotor............... But I don't run it there enough to get another one, the sand is my playground...............

You should be able to make what you have into it on Flea-bay or craigslist................ Good luck man...............

Sounds like a balancing act..................

Right on, cool thanks for the info............

Any speed shop or motorcycle shop can get it, but the question is how much are they wanting for their precious fuel. I have a guy locally that is the buyer for a local logging company and the company that they get their fuel from sells race fuel also and he just has it shipped in for me and it is a pretty good price at that. Cheaper than all the local cycle shops..............

Oh, man that sucks to be those two................

Very nice.......................

12,500K man, that does seem high..................

I used to get AV 100LL from the local airstrip and just pump it into cans and pay with a credit card. They made you type in a tail number so I just looked around and typed one in, but nobody ever bothered me................

Ya, but where did you get it and how much?

Ya, Trinity relies mostly on their name any more and that is kinda crap now too..............

The T-6's are best for not modded shee's, if you plan on doing any mods in the future I would go with the T-5's. The T-5's are an all around pipe...............

Its the compression that determines the use of race fuel not the dome size. Now don't get me wrong the dome size mixed with the rest of your mods will increase compression requiring higher octane, but some of the responses above state that if you run this size dome you have to run race fuel. NOSS had a compression chart available and if you searched on here you would find it and it stated what elevations and what size domes put your compression over the edge for pump gas. Even 20cc domes at 3500-4000 ft would allow pump gas still, but you still need to do a compression test.............. For example: T-5's and a NOSS head with 20cc will cause you to run 50/50, because it puts you at about 150-160 and to keep it from detonating you need to run higher octane fuel, but you don't need to jump straight to 100% race fuel either. If you don't need to run race fuel it is a waste of money until you get higher compression and need it....................

I have a set of Edge's but they rarely get put on. I just take them as a spare set in case something happens to my Brats............... :biggrin:

Sorry about your shee man, that really sucks. Hope you get it back on the trail soon................

Man, ain't that the truth...............