BigRed350x

Are you running resistor plugs too?

Are you getting resistor caps or non-resistor caps? It sounds like your higher reading is with resistor caps...

Do I see a funny car in the background? lol

The way i look at it is if the guy is too stupid to know what parts he has, then guess how smart he probably is with maint and tuning... Im not going to drop that kinda money just to have to spend more on repairs and fixing his crap. Thats just my opinion though. Maybe it looks like a better deal in different parts of the country.

Thanks for the offer, but id prefer to wait until i pay you. I'll hit you up friday. Thanks!

You got any buddies with a coil you could borrow for testing?

I love it when people don't even know the names of the parts they have on their banshee. "CPI inline big bore drag pipes" WTF is an inline pipe? They are called in-frames. "skat trek haulers" "Lonestar hub carrier" wouldn't a hub carrier be an axle or a spindle?? lol "over-sized carbs" wonder what size that equals??

For starters... clean filters, clean carbs, change plugs, check electrical connections...

pressure washer for most stuff except around the filters and gasket surfaces. Spray it off with the air hose. Then catch any tight spots I missed with a rag.

Its yours. Sent you a PM with my paypal.

I would trade the billet side-cover for a stock transmission if anyone has one... Thanks - Jared

LOL! Awesome! I'll have to wait till next friday though. Had the washing machine take a crap on me last night and had to go buy a new one today. I'll pick one up from ya friday. Thanks! - Jared

Keep an eye out for my Twister bike out there guys. jmarquez has it now. K&T lightened frame, +8 swinger, Twister small-block, shearer pipes... Let me know how it does! - Jared

Not a 10sec setup. LOL Cub cylinders will be the cheapest aftermarket cylinder you can get that would give you the performance you're looking for. They are around $8-900. A 4mil crank is about $450-500, a 10mil crank is around $1k, cool head is $200, reeds are $200, good alky carbs will run you anywhere from $350-500 depending on who does them and what kinda options you get on them, pipes will put you back $350-700 depending on which ones you go with and if you get chrome or bare metal, lockup & cover is about $350, straight-cut gears are about $300-350, billet basket is about $150-200, or you can get the spring-loaded billet basket/straight-cut gear combo for $600, intakes are $100-150, a good override will run ya around $350-400. Then you will have all the misc odds and ends to get it all put together right. Give Kevin @ HJR a call. He can hook you up with any of the stuff above & get you a good bang for your buck. Great guy to deal with and fast turnaround time. His number is in my sig. - Jared

Just because it clunks into gear doesn't mean that your dogs aren't getting worn. I would start with replacing the eccentric bolt AND the big heavy spring on your shift shaft that rides on the eccentric. If either one is worn it will cause problems. Pick up a shift-pro and put it in instead of the stock roller. Re-use the stock heavy spring on the roller if you have a shift star mod. The spring that comes with the shift-pro is usually too soft for most people with a modded shift star. If you are going to split the cases, go ahead and get your gears under-cut. (Make sure you have a good reputable shop do this, not just some random dude with a mill. If the under-cutting is done incorrectly it will put more load on one or two dogs than the other and will make things worse. Just make sure you use someone who knows how to measure and do the under-cutting correctly.) I would also get the end of your drum machined down so you have a bearing on both ends of the drum. - Jared

Don't use both, it will cause you more headaches & leaks than you want to deal with. Make sure you check your squish clearance before you take off riding. Depending on who you talk to good squish is between .035 and .055" I like mine around .048" If its too tight or too loose, change your base-gasket thickness. - Jared

That's ok. The key should stick in there pretty good. Its not a bad thing if it stays in there when the flywheel comes off. Whats the resistance on your stator wires?

I wouldn't use either one. Just buy a new top end kit if you need new pistons.

Bingo! They were just trying to copy someone elses work, and failed at that too...

Too bad its not in a suspended hill chassis...

Post me up some pics RZ...

Check the bottom end assembly walkthrough in my signature. It will show you how it all goes together and give you an idea of where to start checking stuff... I'd be willing to bet that your clutch is out of adjustment and your missing the keeper on the top of the arm. Might be time to pop the clutch cover off and check things out. The clutch accuator arm also has a little tab that gets bent down to hold the cable in place, that might be broke off on yours. - Jared

Check the resistance across your primary and secondary coils on the stator, and check the resistance across the pickup. Check that your CDI ground wire is grounded to the frame good, check that your coil has a good ground. Run a ground wire from the frame to the engine. The resistance readings on your stator will tell you if your stator is good or not. The flywheel should never just "fall off" you should have to use a flywheel puller tool to get it off. Double-check that your flywheel key is in place and that your flywheel is seated correctly. Next would be your spark plug caps and new plugs. Have you checked your compression yet?

3k isn't much of a budget for a good fast bike. A good start would probably be a 10mil cub, straight-cut gears, billet basket, override trans, vforce reeds, cool head, timing plate, alky carbs, lockup clutch, good pipes... That right there is probably going to murder your 3k budget and might not get you where you want to be.

The kicking back out of gear is a sign that your dogs are getting rounded. If you are going to pull everything apart and split the cases, get your gears Under-Cut. You already said that you have your gears side-cut, the next step is to get them under-cut. This locks the gears in place once they are engaged. Do you have a shift-pro? Shift-star mod? Is your shift-shaft modded? Have you done the bearing mod to the end of your shift drum yet? These are all the next logical steps to take if you haven't already done them. I would replace the shift forks and do the above mods if you haven't already done them. Give us a list of all the trans mods you've already done....