BigRed350x

I have a set of 20" 10 paddle haulers and they are a fun tire. Lots of grab and go. Really fun on open dunes with a decent motor. bump!

How much for that AC looking bumper you got in your pics shipped to 82901? thanks

Just curious... do you have the stuffers on your vforce, or the restrictive stock round opening on the intake side? edit: I've got vforce3's on my bike in my sig with the stuffers and it seems to run better with them than with the set of carbon fiber dual stage stockers in ported cages I have. Might be on a smaller motor you aren't seeing the response because of smaller "signal" to the reeds?? just a thought/idea.

Get ready for a lot of modding to the frame to fit the belt drive and get your chain aligned correctly.

Maybe you got a bad batch or something. I run the same hose on one of my banshees and it has worked great for over a year and a half now. I'd try it again and just be sure you tighten the crap out of your hose clamps. Also, I use clamps from a local hardware store, not those thin stock ones... might make a little difference. - Jared

I run dual 35's on my old 4mil and run dual 38's on my current bike and it loves them big. I've run all the way from 33's to 39's on my 4mil duners and all of them run good, just depends on what you really want to do with it and where you want more power/response.

I have a set of those same carbs bored to 35.5 with power jets. Very good carbs! They would go well on a cub setup or duner bike! Free Bump!

In my sig...

Spend some coin on shipping and send some stockers over to gorr and have him do your porting. I've got a stock cylinder 4mil that will put a hurting on quite a few of the cubs.

I did a test fit a while back and if you can get just the silencers and want a cleaner setup, shearer silencers and stinger tubes fit with CPI's with a little tinkering and cleans things up a lot more.

I've used vise grips and pinch the ball joint into the hole and it holds it in place. Do it every time and it works good.

Dont try it with a dremel you will be there all day. Use a grinding wheel or grinder of some sort. Its easy to do at home.

Wiseco Prolite Piston kit LC Performance www.rockymountainatv.com www.cascadeinnovations.net Those should cover damn near ever part you could want.

yay for hq :thumbsup:

What stroke you want to run with those cylinders? I've seen a K&T 10mil with stock cylinders (quite a bit of epoxy work though) that was well above 100hp. I would think you could achieve 100hp quite easily with a 4mil and a good drag port. But remember its a complete package, not just cylinders or stroke. Carbs, pipes, intakes, dome design... there's a lot that goes into getting a good running package. I would think a 4mil drag port would be an excellent start. I'm sure it could be done with stock stroke as well with a good builder.

You could give an SOS pad a try. I've used those before to remove crap like that. Just polish them up when you're done.

How about a twin turbo dumping into a supercharger 8v92 2-stroke diesel? I've got a buddy with one of those in a truck-pulling chassis. Do a little swappage into a laydown chassis and have firehead pilot it. :woot:

I will up the anty by proclaiming firehead as a "douche barrel" :ermm: :biggrin:

PM'd ya, thanks!

Go with the CPI's. When I ran them on my 4mil cub I actually thought they made more midrange power than the T5's. I'd go CPI's for sure. If you want all top end go with shearers. Not as much midrange as the CPI's but they will pull harder and longer up on top. I felt like the CPI's dropped off where the shearers would keep pulling. Try a set of CPI's and if you dont like them you can always sell them on here or ebay for damn near what you buy them for as long as they are in good shape. - Jared

I agree, stick with the plastic gear. A metal one will get you in trouble.

U take paypal?

I wish I had one out, but the one that was in a sidecase I got off ebay was trashed, and it jacks them up every time I take them out. Its a small thick ass seal. I'd say around an inch wide and about a half inch thick. Its definitely the thickest one out of the seal kit.

I need the seal that the water pump shaft goes through. It sits between the bearing and the side case. My bearing is fine, just need the seal. Didn't know if anyone had one they got in a seal kit they didn't use and wanted to sell. Let me know what you have! - Jared

I had the same problem when I re-assembled my duner. Took me almost 3 hours to get the front brakes bled. It was a royal pain in my ass. Best of luck with it.