BigRed350x

He had a handfull of posts in the for sale section. Seemed like an honest guy on the phone and in all of our messages, and even in person when I met him. Once I got the bike home and started taking it apart to check everything is when it turned shady. None of the things I found wrong were visible from the outside and all of the parts he said the bike had that you could externally examine were there so I had no reason to think foul play. I don't know of anyone who would let you sit there and tear their whole bike apart and split the cases before you trade with them, so I only had the external look of the bike to go by. Just shows that he wasn't being honest and up front when it took me getting my attourney and police involved to get him to respond to my messages and calls.

Funny, after I made this post and sent him another PM here, he finially started talking to me. Says he ordered a billet basket from FAST today and I should have it in a few days. We will see if it comes through. Waiting to hear back from jeff at FAST to see if he actually ordered the basket or not.

He's not really using the "partial trade" terminology right. He wants your YFZ AND cash for his banshee. I tried to trade the guy a built 480yfz with hotcams, 98mm cylinder, cp piston, head porting, esr intake, hmf pipe and header, +6 swinger, etc and he wanted cash on top of my yfz for his banshee. Price is too steep sandnut. I've got a 10mil Big Block Twister drag bike listed for $8k and no one is interested. You're going to have to come down in price or be willing to negotiate on trades a little more if you want to move that banshee.

Got a 4mil from him that he gave me a parts list on. When I got it, it was missing half the parts he said it had. Water pump gear was broken. Had water in the cooling system (which froze) and cracked the radiator and cracked the water pump itself in half. Said it had a billet basket and a HD clutch, it actually had a stock basket and worn out stock clutch and stock springs. The nut that holds the clutch to the front trans shaft was welded to the shaft. So the entire front trans shaft has to be replaced, the nut replaced, and a new inner hub. He said it had ported 4mil cylinders, which it didn't. The cases were cracked below the front engine mount, which he tried to hide with epoxy and didn't tell me about. He agreed through text messages that he would send me a billet basket for the bike. Its been 2 and a half weeks since then and I have not received anything from him, and he has stopped replying to my texts and won't answer calls. I am turning this over to his local police and my attourney as fraud. I'm into this engine over $1000 so far in parts and labor he said it had that it doesn't. I will post the guy's address tonight when I get back home. Maybe someone local can stop by and talk to him and at least get the billet basket he promised me. That would take it below $1000 and reduce the felony fraud charges to misdemeanor. Maybe a little incentive for him to get off his ass and make things right.

In short... These are stock stroke dune/drag ported cylinders. With a .020" base gasket and a set of custom cut domes you will have a good running set of cylinders. - Jared

Yes, titan racing ran all sorts of combo's for me. They won't work with a 4mil. Period. These are stock stroke cylinders. Here's what titan said about them in the open forums on PS. "I wouldnt worry about the floors, the piston will become the floor, you could run the right amount of base "space" for a stock stroke and the would do fine just as long as the port timings are right and the head fits right. ...there is no popup on those and with those measurements at 0 deck you would be at 198* ED with a 54 mm stroke and 206* at 58 mm so it looks to me like they are a set of drag ported stockers unless the cylinders were set up with no plate .080 pop which would put the timing at 198 but with a 58 stroke the intakes are to high i am getting 140 even with pop 134 on 54 stroke and 0 deck those are drag ported stock stroke IMO way to much reversion with the blowdown numbers that low for a 4 mill it would of ran like dooky" - Titan Racing

Quicksand makes some beefy solid swingers.

pm's returned.

They are 65.5mm bore, or .60 over The only things you would need to make this a running top end would be a piston kit, a .020" base gasket (available from just about any builder, or cascadeinnovations.net carries them) and you'd need to get a hold of david at Noss or your preferred builer and get a set of custom domes made. So... 65.5mm Piston kit .020" base gasket Custom Domes

I wish I knew who ported them so I could ask them about the cylinder sleeve porting. Not sure what effect the sleeve porting has on the over-all port job. Its done very nice and clean though.

4mil = NO Stock Stroke = YES First off I will tell you everything I know about these, so there is no confusion. I recently picked up a "4mil" banshee. The guy was running a spacer plate with these cylinders. When I removed the spacer plate and built the top end back up to use a set of cut domes instead of the spacer plate things didn't line up. The piston was coming way too far out of the top of the cylinders and wasn't going to work. When I encountered this I took some measurements on the cylinders and sent them off to a couple different builders and posted them over on planetsand for some input. Someone took a nice set of stock stroke ported cylinders and decked the base of them .050" to try and make the porting work with the 4mil. This combined with the spacer plate and incorrect gasket thicknesses made it a total flop. These cylinders WILL NOT work with a 4mil crank. Period. The port timings are just too far off and cannot be corrected to get the correct proper durations needed for a 4mil. These cylinders will however work with a stock stroke crank. I had Titan Racing and Wildcard Racing both do duration measurements on these cylinders based on the measurements I took. Big thanks to both Titan and Wildcard for their help with figuring out these cylinders. "With a standard .020 base gasket it comes out to 193* EX/128* TF for a blowdown timing of 32.5*. This would be a nice mid to top dune port matched to a set of T-5's or even a low duration port for some CPI's." - Brandon at Wildcard So, with a .020" base gasket these cylinders can be run with a stock stroke crank. You will however need to get custom domes machined, since the cylinders were decked .050" for the attempted 4mil setup. So, the cylinders are actually a little bit shorter than standard cylinders. You will need to assemble the top end and measure your deck height and contact someone who can make you a custom set of domes (I recommend david at Noss machine). Once you do this, you will have a great dune-port setup. I have no idea who ported the cylinders originally, but its very nice work and they look great. So, since these cylinders are not just a bolt and go setup I'll sell them cheap and hopefully someone can have a little more power for cheap. 65.5mm Bore Stock Stroke Cylinders 193 degrees exhaust duration 128 degrees transfer duration 32.5 degrees blowdown Use .020" base gasket Cylinders have a fresh quick hone Assemble / measure deck height once assembled & get custom domes cut. $150 shipped. I am out of town until thursday for family matters. I can still reply to PM's and here on the board, but I won't be able to ship anything out until I return. Thanks - Jared

First off I will say that I don't care about dyno results. I ride big dunes and drag race with friends out on the dunes. All of my testing is real-world testing in real life. Not sitting on some dyno in a shop. On my 4mil Duner (4mil gorr ported stock cylinders, vforce3, cool head, 19cc domes noss cut to my spec, reed spacers(just to get the carb bowls off the clutch arm), upp intakes, shearer pipes) I've run 33pwk's, 34PJ's, 35PWK's, 35PWK AirStrykers, 38mm PWK Airstrykers, 39mm PWK's, 34mm TM Flatslides and 35.5 TM Flatslides. Every single carb setup was run on methanol, so my results might be different than you gasser guys. The 38's provided the best power and best top-end speed. The 33's made great throttle response and good low end, but you could feel them holding the bike back on the big end. The 34PJ's were the carbs I ran the most and liked the most for dune riding and play racing on this particular setup. They felt like they gave the best of both worlds - throttle response and top end power. When I'd go somewhere just to drag race and do WOT straight runs I'd swap out to the 38's. The 39's were pretty similar to the 38's, I just prefer the airstryker design with methanol. Its a mix and match between providing your engine with the most CFM you can/it wants and getting your intake velocity high enough to efficiently pull the air and fuel into the engine. The velocity is affected by porting though, so it will vary bike to bike. The bigger carbs are going to have lower velocity through the carb and less of a venturi effect on the jets in the carbs. The smaller carbs will be just the opposite, but will also restrict the CFM available to the engine at your target rpm. If 33's worked on any engine setup out there, you'd see 33's on everyone's bikes, including the big drag bike setups. I run stock carbs on my stock stroke duner, 34PJ's on my 4mil duner, and 41's on my drag bike. I think my drag bike would cave in a set of 33's and suck them into the engine. LOL

How much for just the cylinders, no pistons. PM Me please. - Jared

Up Up Up!

I need a set of stock cylinders, no porting. Low bore preferred. Show me what you got. Thanks! - Jared

Cruise over to planetsand and check out some times and you can answer your own question. Not that its related, but here's some cool drag races from around here. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjkEzRpffss

Did you port match your cases to your new cylinders? Replace the cheap bearings on the trans while you have it apart? Its pretty simple as long as you have all the parts you need right there as you put it back together. Follow your clymers manual torque specs for the case studs and nuts. Don't get too much case sealant on the two case halves, it will goop out everywhere as you torque your cases together. You just need a thin bead on both sides. If you have questions just jump on here and ask... To the guy who builds his engine on the kitchen table... you must not be married or live with a woman. LOL Most of them would get a little upset at an engine on the kitchen table. haha!

Domes and Timing plate SOLD. Thanks guys.

Nitrotate here on HQ does really nice powdercoat.

Castor 927. Some people don't like it because its kinda goopy, but that's why I love it. Keeps everything lubed up nicely. I run it in all 3 of my banshees, gas and meth.

I have a hard time believing you bent just the stem and not the frame. The stem is attached at the top and the bottom, making it stationary (with the exception of rotation) against the frame. To bend the stem you'd have to do SOMETHING to the frame. I bet you've got paint cracking off your A-pillar right above the factory gussets that hold your upper pipe mounts... If you did somehow manage to bend just the stem, congrats. That's impressive. Post pics.

First off... don't let people know its in there, don't show it off to people. The fewer who know where it is the better. Is there a large immoveable object nearby to the banshee? Massive workbench, car, truck, structural member of the garage... chain the banshee to that with a massive logging chain, or large boat anchor chain and the biggest padlock you can find. I prefer chain from the railroads. Tow chains they use are pretty massive and you can't get a set of bolt cutters around the links. You either have to torch the links or cut them with a grinder. If you're not going riding any time soon, do whatever you can to make the bike harder to push/roll around. Flatten your tires, and put a padlock on the brake disc in back, so you can't rotate the axle. I've also seen people padlock the brake lever to the bars so the front brakes are locked. If someone is hell-bent on stealing it, they will get it no matter what you do. I had an idiot cut a natural gas supply line to my house I had my banshee chained to, to get it out of my yard. A neighbor 2 houses down shot the dude and called the cops. I don't live there anymore, but I bought that guy a lot of beer for taking care of the theft issue.

I'd do 13x41 or 14x44. Try either of those out and see how you like it. Have you bumped your timing up 4 degrees yet? That will help with the bottom end a little.

There's a 3-cylinder 1325cc cougar that K&T built over on planetsand for sale right now. I'm thinking THAT might be overkill. haha!