sheefreak

You shouldn't need one unless you are running alky.

The jet numbers are way different between a keihen and a Mikuni, thats why it sounds low.

If you are going on a busy weekend for the first time, may want to get spark arrestors before hand, they do sell out.

Doesn't matter. I've seen people run it either way

Alcohol is a whole nother story when it comes to carb size.

Yeah, cleans the look up a lot.

May want to reconsider...Marriage that is!

Coolant overflow, lights, control for engine run/lights(need push button kill switch)get new clutch lever and perch and get rid of stock bulky one w/ebrake.

I would call and ask Jim if I were you, but probably a little big. 35's would be ideal!

Stan, what would you charge to send one to 49015?

I would agree.

You didn't put your emergency brake on did you? If so, this will prevent it from running.

They are usually included w/a good carrier, but not sure where to buy separate. I am sure you could look up factory parts on about any year Honda quad and find one.

Sandblast.

Podos Racing.

Agreed! If you are going all out drag, better go lite.

Not sure how good the Shearers wil be for MX.

If you take the top end off real quick, might find your rings are sticking in the landings on the one lower side. You can actually clean those grooves out(mineral spririts, and something to scrape in there) and reassemble w/o honing, as long as you reuse the same rings. But you should replace your head gasket and base gasket. Or maybe just get a set of rings, hone it, and slap it back together. If your rings are sticking on the one side, your piston will eventually start hitting the cylinder wall and causing more problems. I would take a look before I ran it too much more.

Weight is a big difference if you go w/skat trak mohawk or smoothies.

You can eliminate the TORS system by unplugging the little black box under the gas tank. It is possible that that is inconsistently causing you problems.

Once again, are you going to build a slightly modified motor, or are you stroking it out, going w/straight cuts, hinson basket, override tranny, pancake bearing, cub cyls, etc.... If you are just building your typical slightly modified shee(pipes, air filter, maybe advanced timing, reeds) then I would look for something complete. By time you piece together every nut, bolt, seal, gasket, gear, etc. you will have spent way less money buying one complete to start with.

Never a bad idea to clean the carbs, pay speacial attention to the pilot jet. But the problem is, if it sometimes doesn't start w/starting fluid, it isn't going to start w/perfect working carbs. Buddy had a warrior that you could see spark all the time, but would only start and run about 1/3 of the time. Replaced the stator, ran better but sometimes still wouldn't run. Replaced the coil, and he never had a problem w/it after. Always start w/the easy stuff. Clean the carbs, try fresh plugs, make sure your bowls aren't on the wrong carb(choke won't work properly if they are swapped) make sure air filter is clean and you have good compression. Try starting again. If it doesn't start, or starts fine now, but can't get it to start next time or time after, better look at electrical. Good luck!

I agree. Unless you are going all aftermarket, it will cost way too much.

I wouldn't even mess w/those cylinders. There is a guy on here that was selling some cyl's ported by Tyson, which he later found out from the guy he bought them from on PS that they are by A&S(just as good). I think he wanted $300 for them. I would find out what bore they are at and go w/them. A port job is going to cost that much or more, and then you'll have no room for bad luck. One failed bearing, piston, etc., and you're done.

Check your compression, if it is good, you had better start looking at electrical. You may even see a ok looking spark if the coil or stator is failing. Will be inconsistent also.