sheefreak

You need the cut domes to compensate for the stroke. The 795 compensates for the longer rod. Your pistons till come out of the cylinders and you will have a positive deck height. If you put it together w/o cut domes the pistons will hit the domes. I am getting ready to sell a complete 4 mill frag ported setup w/crank, cut domes the whole deal if anyone is interested.

It should spin very easy.... you are trying to talk yourself into running it w/o being sure. Better take it back apart. You already stated it doesn't spin as easy as the tranny... it should be pretty close.

If you're into drag I am going to be selling an entire 4 mill stock cyl drag ported setup on alky including head w/cut domes and crank pistons and all. If interested, PM me for details...

Ditch it.

I figured as much... free bump anyway!

C'mon Shayne, quit holding out on that cub....LOL

A modded shift star and whatever else you want to throw at it doesn't hold a candle to an override.

What are you running for motor?

Good pics Shayne! Had a blast. Won't make it to Ionia, but hopefully some of you make it to the last Bob's race. Then it's time to Hunt!!! Bike runs great Jeff, actually the whole Toyboxx, aka Havoc crews shit gets w/it! Can't wait to build a bigger bike myself...

IMO, a plug chop is good for someone who does not or can't tune by the sound and feel of the motor. It never hurts to do one, if you feel comfortable tuning that way, by all means do a plug chop, it will not lie. I have enough experience w/a gas motor that I can tell from the minute it is started on how the bottom jetting is, and can get a very good feel for how the top is the first time I ride it and crack it open a little. I just always make sure I jet rich to start, and once I get the jetting where I like it, I keep an eye on the plugs once in a while(mainly the porcelin on gas motors) to make sure it doesn't get away from me(ie. unexpected air leak, etc.).

I would agree...14 42 or 43 should do you fine. You might even get away w/stock gearing.

What kinda mods?

Need to do a leakdown test. You may have an airleak somewhere in the cases. I would also richen the needles(drop the clip a notch on the needle). It sounds lean rather than deto to me. Do the plugs wanna back out on you? Does the motor ping?

It is very possible that the piston failure caused the bearing failure on the left side. Would have also caused it on the right side if it were able to run much longer. As mentioned above, the skirt breaking off is usually the cause of excessive piston to wall clearence. What was your compression like? Was it a hard starter?

I have had great luck w/WCR for the Override. He can cut you a duneable or straight override. I don't have his number right off, but someone here does. You can get them cut by most builders. Dave may be able to hook you up through his buddy Evan or you can call, K+T, RDZ, Rudy Kurtz, Jim Passion, Cam at Redline, etc. etc. etc......

Jetting usually will not have anything to do w/a bearing failure. As mentioned, sometimes a crank bearing fails because you are unlucky. The obvious causes would be a ton of time on the crank, and no mix oil in your fuel. Usually when a crank bearing goes, pieces will get pushed up through the transfers and destroy the top of the piston on that side, but the two sides are not sealed off. It is possible parts and fragments got into the other side. How much time on the crank. And when you say the piston failed, what happened to it?

An override is priceless. If you send yours in, you can have one cut for around $300. I am curious as to how they are gonna tell if your motor is ported or not??? Anyway, I would also like to know where i can buy a Mr Fusion kit LOL.

The floats can easily be adjusted to not leak any fuel.

I have a polished set you can have for $80 shipped. I can't post pics from work, but if you are interested, I will post em tonight.

I ran a stock shock on a +6 w/no problems... duned it and drag raced it, just no big air. Any longer than 6 and all bets are off.

Well, that's good to know too. I assumed they made a billet second gear because damn near everyone and their brothers launch in second.

I agree w/Roger. Friend of mine geared his to launch in third but only because his second was toast. I also believe 2nd is much stronger than third as far as gear strength is concerned.

Sounds like pretty rich lower and mid ckt for airbox w/lid. Take it off, see if it runs worse or better and go from there. What does your plug look like? Are they wet?

I see what you mean Dave, but that ratio just sounded extreme. Even when I ran a stock motor w/Pipes, a 13 alone made it a wheelie monster and quite the trail machine. W/a 13 tooth, you would be launching in 3rd LOL.

Interesting... Congratulations. So your setup has to maintain some turnability while tying to stretch it enough to keep the front wheels on the ground... +4 or 6 swinger?