sheefreak

There are very few instances where you need a pingel for gas.

One thing I would research that I have noticed people complaining about is the flywheel getting seized to the billets. I do not run a billet and have no experience w/this problem, but have seen others w/this issue. Some are lapping the crank before installing....you might do some searching and asking around.

2nd

No power gain. I would run premium pump fuel if I were you, quit wasteing your money. This is a tough question because I don't know of anyone that has wasted a motor experimenting to find out. Anyone care to donate one? :biggrin: Start at 160, beat the crap out of it. Disassemble, inspect.....reassemble at 170 and repeat. I have personally always just gone for the gusto. It is either stock ratio or 15:1 or so, so I just go straight to 110.

No, sorry. It would be easy enough to just take your silencer w/you. Oh, and did they happen to send the o-rings? If not, don't forget those.

You can get them at your local hardware....If there is no local hardware, I probably have the right size in the shop.

What are you doing for timing?

I understand you will be assembling the motor, but that does not make you the builder. :cool: What I meant, was contact whoever you are going to have port your cyls, tell them what you want, and they will give you all the other info you need. Info like, 795 series pistons for a long rod setup, recessed domes to accomodate for the stroke, a recommendation on where to start w/timing, etc. etc....

Did you use the same oil in your purge fuel as you do your alky the last time you purged it? I believe Shayne is right on w/his explanation. That is the one good thing about a fuel pump...it is harder for this situation to happen.

You want a long rod stroker. Just a long rod doesn't make power. It is to help the rod angle and battles against the crank wanting to push the piston through the cyl wall. Just research and pick your builder and tell them you want a 4 mill duner motor and they will get you all set up.

You should be pretty close to right on. I wouldn't change a thing. Does it run well all through the RPM's and gears?

Yes, you are correct.

I would lean on the side of floats being stuck open or not adjusted correclty. That sucks bro...too early in the season for that shit. Are you runnin a pump, or gravity? What mains, dumps, what types of pj's, etc. Any pics of plugs you were running? I would also like to know if it ever cleaned out? Should have ran like shit if at all if it was filling up w/Alky???

Here is one of many examples of Snop not being a dick. :biggrin: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...14770&st=15 I will give him some credit, he is a knowledgeable guy w/some real world experience and is great at helping guys get set up for the dunes out west and such. I agree w/the fact that he busts guys out who are passing bad info. Noone needs that. My only problem is you come over as a dick sometimes Snop, and maybe you don't mean it. I know we can all have our moments and such so whatever....no biggie. Back to the subject at hand. I have also succesfully run a tusk clutch kit in an 80 plus horse bike for 2 yrs w/no problems. I did end up burning it up when I got an override and didn't have a lockup yet. I then went and purchased a Barnette because I was at the beginning of a week long vacation and burnt it up in about 20 minutes. Now I realize I just plain needed a lockup and probably no clutch was going to hold up to the abuse. My way of thinking on this though is that the tusk clutch is just not overpriced. I have seen plenty of others run them w/great success. With all that being said, my favorite fibers are the Yamaha FZR fibers. They are tough, and are a hair wider and seem to be a little less destructive to clutch baskets as far as the grooving goes. Here is a great kit w/them in it. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...A1%7C240%3A1318

Must be stock head if you are using a gasket? Antifreeze coming out of the studs just means you don't have a good seal at the head gasket. After market heads generally use little o-rings to seal each stud and sometimes accompanied by copper washers at the top. One thing you can try if you haven't already is torque the head to the cyls first before you torque the cylinder base nuts. If it is just slightly warped, somethimes this will work, but sounds like it is worse than that. I am not completely familiar w/lapping the head, sounds easy, but someone who has done it may chime in and steer you in the right direction. If you have a sheet of fairly thick glass or some other extremely flat surface you should be able to put the head on it and see it is warped.

You can't generally get the larger rollout's on a single buff either.

Well Donkey, you could actually know it all and not be an asswhole. But if you like being treated that way, more power to ya.

I find Snop to be quite the cranky bastard if you don't agree w/him..... He seems to know it all as well.

Here is a really good kit as well. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANS...A1%7C240%3A1318

Kinda sounds like you may have a head gasket leak. It is pushing all the radiator fluid out of the Radiator ? If it was doing it before, maybe your head is warped? Does it feel crazy hot?

Some RTV or silicone works fine.

This reminds me I need to get that head out for Boo!!! My bad guys, will get it out right away. Bump for a smokin deal. If whoever buys it wants it polished, Shayne can send it to me and I will polish it for an extra $50.

It all depends on where you are located in the country(ie humidity) The best way to go is if you go for a single day ride, race, or trip then purge when done. If you go away for a weekend and ride every day, purge after the weekend. If you go this route you will always be safe. Purging is easy, takes 5 minutes.

You should be ok to just change the shift shaft. The little "C" at the end of the shaft that actually turns the shift drum develops side to side play over time and it sounds like this is what is causing your binding.

Second. Mine no longer freezes up since I went to an aluminum kick lever. Still uses the stock knuckle or whatever you want to call it.