sheefreak

I don't dune much anymore, but if ya wanna race, you know where to find me!

If you are asking where at in the RPM range each makes its power, a cub and a drag ported cylinder are very similar. You will be hard pressed to make the same power on a stock cylinder as you can easily make w/a cub(i believe this is what the other guys are referring too).

A 10 mill stock cylinder can be very fast, but cost just as much or more to build. I would go w/the cub...

In that case, I would feel a little better about it...

For $150 you can buy a Boss and at least purchase it from an American. It could even be the same radiator, who knows. If you have any trouble at all, good luck dealing w/the overseas seller. In2glamis is selling the boss ones brand new for $150 plus shipping. I think $160 to your door.

I have been running type F ATF for 4 years on a 4 mil stock drag ported setup and now a 10 mil cub w/a duneable tranny beating the piss out of it in the dunes and at the track and have had no problems whatsoever. I change it often, but it is cheap. I typically ise the castrol brand simply because it is a respectable name and readily available.

No, they did not let me in. I have driven the bike in w/my truck ever since, bit isn't that hard to get in otherwise. Just have to wait for them to be busy and drive up. As far as sound and spark arrestors, there is no tckt at the gate, they just don't let you in. Now if you are already in and you decide to take your arrestors off and they catch you, they will then tckt you.

I was tested w/cpi inframes once and registered 106 db. Went and repacked them to see if I could get it down.....106 again

Up.

Go Bucks!

I have never had to have a title in the 10 yrs I have been going there. I have a drag chassis now w/no numbers on it at all

Will you do $30 shipped on the pump?

You are correct....I am going to say the chances are slim to none that this is actually the case, but possible.

Sounds like the seller is confused and don't expect him to know what he has. Some people call reeds "reed valves". I can guarentee it does not have reeds and valves. If you deal w/this seller, just be cautious, he or she hasn't a clue.

You will not get the ride from a direct link as opposed to the stock linkage setup. If you are looking for something stiffer for TT or drag racing a no link w/marvin is a great way to go.

This is all on the assumption you are running the proper dome, timing, etc.

I am going to go out on a limb here and say you will be in the 65- 70ish horsepower range on methanol w/your current moddest port durations. If I am understanding your ? Correctly, I would say another 20ish hp could be had(on methanol) if you up'd those numbers to the 194-196 and 130ish areas. This number may require opening the transfers as much as possible and not f'ing up the angles the transfers are aimed into the cyl. I believe more power than that can be had if you do some welding on the transfers and really open them up. I want to declare I do not do port work and only barely understand the basics. I am curious though if you may have already known what I just told you?

You should definately as these guys mentioned call a quality builder and have him help you out. I have seen several of Jeffs bikes run well and he is a sponsor. Nothing against CT, but they are not typically a builder of the type of motor you are looking for. A good example may be the 12 tooth sprocket....maybe for MX, but NEVER for hill racing or drag racing.

I tried the screen trick too on a set of CPI's and I think the same woman denied me as well.

An excessively slipping clutch can cause this as well. When was the last time you changed the Tranny fluid?

2nd! Fair prices and great workmanship. You don't know what you are getting from Ebay half the time.

You are gonna learn another hard lesson if you put that motor back together w/o splitting the case again to completely clean the bottom end of all debri. If you melted down a piston and run it like that again w/a new top end, you may as well of thrown a handfull of sand down in the case why you were at it. You need to clean everything and roll all bearings of the crank to feel for grit or resistance in the bearings. You should be able to clean everything up an be ok but do not put that thing together w/o a clean and inspection. And you are definately lean. As mentioned, it doesn't hurt to start out so rich that you are fouling plugs, you can always go down from there. 340-350 range should give you an idea. And when you go to ride it, don't just pin it right away. Slowly give it some throttle, working up to very short bursts of having it pinned. Take your time unless you have a buncha cash you wanna throw away.

I can't say enough about Tim's workmanship or has customer service. Great guy for sure!

This is terrible to hear. 29 is way too young..... I never heard of any complications and I have been here since 04. Her insight on things were always very interesting. Rip Brooke, you and your family will be in our prayers.

Was just letting you know I would do them both for $100 shipped which I have now offered to everyone, but didn't want to split.