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Everything posted by blowit
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Yep Brandon OH, as long as it has four wires indicating it also has a rectifier in it.
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I am thinking you put your filter and prefilter back in too?? Please remove the prefilter and see what happens. Brandon
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I can tell you for sure that you will not get 200psi out of that motor with drag porting with that head. I am worried now. Brandon
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Ride it my man. The Nicasil will not melt off the cyilinder but can be beat off by detonation. The melting point of Al is much lower so the piston will melt and transfer to the coating first and lock the motor before the coating melts. Detonation percussion waves will break the coating and flake it off. Brandon
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When you see something poking out of one of the cylinders, it might be time for new rings. If you are near sea level and your gauge is actually right, it is time to take a look. Um, what the guy did above is NOT what you should do. a broke piston will follow shortly after requiring a new crank generally. Trust me, pay now or pay more later. Brandon
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Um, not real sure what to say to that. Good job?? At least no harm done. Brandon
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I will bet your motor is starting correctly and then reversing due to time advance issues. Do me this, turn the engine over with the kick arm and see which way the flywheel turns. It is physically impossible to turn the motor over the wrong way but that motor can reverse instantly after starting. Bet that makes for a crazy ride!! "banshee --with reverse!!!" you will need to grab a timing light to get this one worked out. Will need a 12V battery to supply the light. Regardless of plate settings, you need to check your timing on this one. Something may have been made wrong. Brandon OH, by the way, you can test the timing without the engine running by pulling the plugs and setting on head, and turning the crank over with a drill motor and kooking your test light to the plug leads. You really can damage the kick gear if it hangs up when reversing. Bad things.
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not your normal low compression question
blowit replied to '99350t's topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Yeah, I too would suspect the gauge first. If you know your top end is fresh and head is new and both sides are equal, grab a buddies gauge and try again. Brandon -
I agree. You simply cannot beat the quality of work from the way south labor force. Brandon
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Everyone has their own flavor but you can bet if I tell you one way, someone will tell you otherwise. We build countless motors and on a taper shaft like that, the taper was designed to lock the flywheel in position once tightened. We do , however, install everything with an impact to about 60ftlbs. We have yet to replace a key. Getting the nut tight is more critical than using thread lock. If you do decide to take the nut off, why would you remove the flywheel?? If you put locker on, use blue. not red. Brandon
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Negative, role without, you are all good. Brandon
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Well, you can always try just swapping out the CDI. Personally, I don't like the part swapping events. I like to know something is bad before I just replace it. The way that bike went down points to other wiring failures but the CDI way very well be bad. Continuity testing is your friend. Let that meter rule things out. Sometimes it is not what is bad but what is good that leads you to the culprit. Brandon
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You don't lock a motor that hard and not hurt something. There is a reason it lock whether it be the trans or engine. You need to find the reason for it. You will want to do some comp testing to see if it still pumps up like new. Take the pipes off and look up it's ass. If things look good there, you may have just chunked something and it locked two gears together. I just had one in that locked the chain. It was in for a clutch repair but I caught the symptom of a trans problem and he (intelligently) allowed me to go through the trans. Two cracked gears with about 5min ride time left on them. One ride would have cost him a bunch more. You need to find the reason for the problem. Take it apart if you have too. DO NOT rule out the bearing carrier in the rear either. Brandon
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The way that it just died makes we wonder about the flywheel key or something coming loose and hitting the flywheel. Possibly just a wire connector. You should have a manual. If not, get one. Th electrical testing is covered in the manual. Yes you can test the stator but the way it went down, it is probably something obvious. Pull the side cover and have a looksy. Brandon
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For most applications, the lightened flywheel is a good thing on the Banshee. The reduction of mass reduces crankshaft inertia and can lead to stalling if uses on technical tracks. The extra weight also helps in traction by helping smooth the power delivery to the rear tires. Unless you are 230lbs or over and riding in woods or technical trails, I would say go for it. Brandon
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If you are talking about killing the clutch basket, That just sucks. The best way to attack the inner hub bolt is with an air impact gun. I know if no one that uses the clutch hub tool. If you are out of options, you have need to just get the tool and give it a try though. Brandon
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The term 32/1 means 32 parts fuel to one part oil. I am sure this topic has been covered but it really depends on what breed of oil you are looking at. Ratios vary a bunch depending on composition. Please refer to one of our Q&A pages and scroll to oil questions. http://mullengineering.com/t2.cfm?q=qna http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/pdfs/fueltable.pdf Brandon
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stock sleave and are they worth the $
blowit replied to banshee(911)'s topic in Banshee Repairs and Mods
gotta figure the installation too. Those old sleeves are not press in's. They cast around th sleeve so you have to bore them out. Some replacement liners are pretty thin and you bore to like .150 and install the liner. I am not a fan of those. You can have them done for less than new cylinders though. If your work great, just do it and make sure someone know what port matching is. Without that, you are wasting your time. brandon -
I would have to disagree one the fuel selection. The quoted 180psi may be just fine on pump fuels. Give it a run and if you don't have audible knock, things should be fine. Make sure to keep jetting on. Lean jetting can cause detonation. I have a stocker in here right now that has run for years with 19s on stock porting and 91oct. The roughness on the intakes are fine. They are rough from the factory and looks like someone tried to clean the castings a bit but no worries and no need to jet for that. Not enough to make a difference. Brandon
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Two things affect the power output of the stator, the resistance of the coil windings and the strength of the magnetic flux. Start by checking resistance on all coils, Inspect flywheel for damage, and replace plugs even if brand new. Start there. If your problem gets worse with heat, that can be the stator OR the CDI. Brandon
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We designed this software for our needs. It does a little more than calc the volumes though. You should be able to use about any 3D CAD stuff to help you along. You can also use traditional Trig to get the job done though. For one head, that is probably best. Brandon
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You can genreally sneak by with the stock carbs by just running the biggest mains you can find. genrerally around 430s. Now this is on a stocker. If you do much else, you will need booster jets on the stock carbs to feed enough fuel. You will also need to bore your stock petcock and install a high flow filter. You NEEEED to have that stock head modded to max to get the most from the fuel. You also need more timing. PM us on the head if you need it done. Our specially it Alky. Brandon
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I can tell you the squish target should be between .025-.040. As you calculating volumes, that is just some basic math there. We just use 3D modeling to design new chambers. I will tell you, you would need do calculate the dome in sections. I guess this is a little in proprietary for us. Brandon
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Once those plates are soaked, they are soaked. Not doubting you toasted your clutch, just not because of a lack of oil. Maybe it was just time. Brandon
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Yes, the reeds can drop the pressure but how much, I just don't remember. If one side is good, you should still test good on that side. Your reeds may need flipped over so they seat better. All in all, if you have a side with no visual problems, you need to look elsewhere. The first thing to do is check that squish clearance. Brandon

