blowit

show sounds like the voltage regulator is either bad or not in the system. See if the bulbs are all toast. Lets start there. Brandon

What is the main component in starting fluid? The ones you buy at any part store all use Diethyl Ether. The use of Ether in a higher compression spark ignition engine can have devastating effects. It can cause engine run away by means of auto ignition and one of our guys learned this the hard way. I also saw it at the dunes. No thanks Brandon

You've got tranny issues There. Sounds like a circlip jumped out of a groove or a washer is missing. The trans is a constant mesh type so it is spinning all the time regardless of gear selection. As soon as you try to select a gear, it would over travel the gear and cause two ratios to try and drive at the same time. This is exactly what happens when an override trans if unloaded before you stop rolling. That can really screw things up. Pull it back out and take a peek. When you pull the clutch, spin the drive shaft or input shaft to the trans while in neutral and see if you feel any rough spots. If so, you likely have cracked a gear tooth. One other thing I forgot about is the banshee can actually spit out the shift cam on either side and this will sure screw up a trans as well. White plug behind the front drive sprocket. Brandon

Well I was going to say, if you sprayed that motor with Ether like someone else mentioned, you can easily blow that motor apart!!! DO NOT put Ether in a two stroke! Not sure why you cannot get spark but I am really wondering if your flywheel key is in place? When you verify spark, you simply spray a bit of WD40 in the carb throats and if it does not even try to lite, you more than likely have a timing issue. Your spark loss may just be the TORS system hanging up or a wire you pulled off the coil while messing with it. Good luck Brandon

Adding the lid will only make it run fatter. The 450s will normally show a glowing pipe at near idle because of the way the booster jet works in the carb. No biggy on the thumpers but a damn big deal on a banshee. No question, it is toast. Open it and let us know. Change?? Piston have a new hole? Kinda like rolling to dice in Vegas but knowing your odds are, well, you don;t have any. shit. When they don't start, there is a reason. Dragging them around town is not the best for them. Brandon

Super high pipe temps generally only come from lean conditions and detonation. I am thinking either your water pump went south or your main jet is plugged on that side. The pic is not super clear but that residue in the silencer looks like aluminum. I am expecting a powdered mess inside. Pull it down, it is over. You key in finding the culprit will be if the LH side is ok. That would mean either a major air leak on the RH side or a plugged main jet. Both sides would probably be the water pump. Brandon

Yes, we have had to do it. The newer CDIs will have circuits are are not used on the early models. You need to have schematics for both harnesses. Brandon

Careful planning is what you need. I am sure the rod and lever have fused and probably will cause problems if used this way. When the ball welds to the rod, it starts to spin the rod and welds to the lever as well. Your best bet is to get the rod out first by either drilling and tapping the end or a small bolt extractor. If you just force the4 lever out, you may get to buy a new case half. be careful. You seem the type to roll the dice with the 2lb hammer and it may cost ya. Brandon

The arm is probably welded to the pushrod. You will need to figure out a way to break the bond between the rod and lever. After that, things should come apart easily. You will have to use your judgment as to how to break the bond. Careful with the drive axle for the trans though or you will get to split the cases to replace it. Do NOT use a torch for any of this or you WILL anneal you trans gears and axle and the trans will fail in 5 min or riding. Brandon

Welded clutch ball. Pull clutch cover and pressure plate and inspect. Should be able to repair without splitting cases. brandon

Clutch disengagement problems will cause this every time. However, downshifts should be pretty easy without the clutch. If it will not take any gears easily, look at the clutch first and then, yes, you may have some bent shift forks from some super foot happy shifters. Brandon

Um, I will not comment on some of the selections of oils. I will say that everyone is quoting there ratios and that is only relative to the type of oil used. IE, you mix a full synthetic around 50:1 so don't think you can blend your yamahalube semi synthetic at 50:1 and last very long. All oils have their sweet spot for a given displacement and rpm. Castor bean oils like to be mixed rich but offer the best protection but have a tendency to separate in cold weather. We like klotz and Benol Brandon

Thus the name of the product, the electrofusion coating is composed of Nickel and Silicon carbide. As I remember it, Chrome was a very good coating for bores and the only problems were less consistent mill thicknesses and a lack of adhesion. I would bet on some new coatings in the future to further reduce wear and friction. The plating process is damn cocky from a manufacturing standpoint. Many OEMs are using it because it reduces cost by not having to produce a sleeve and increases engine life. The bore has to be honed to size anyway by the OEM for the sleeve. This just means a simply precision finish cycle in the block, plate it, and role on. Cool stuff but not something your every day machine shop can offer. Brandon

Sounds like your throttle cable might be failing you. When they fray, they can cause carb sync problems. If you are damn sure your carbs are dead on, time to do a leak down. The crank seal is not the only place it can pull air. If you are getting a nasty backfire on the cylnder, that would indicated a lean pop condition and possibly an air leak. Brandon

New pistons and go. YOu can light hone with a finish diamond flex hone but that is it. The bore is hard as hell and resists glazing well and holds crosshatching for years. Mic it to be sure the holes are round and straight. Brandon

I think he is referring to the extension tube and not the threaded termination end. Brandon

The reasons should be simple. If you have schrader valve at the end of each test lead, one valve is failing you. I have said before that they are critical for accurate testing. If no valves, you are not going to be accurate anyway but the reason would be displacement in the tube. One must be a shade shorter than another. Fluid dynamics would not lie on this one. You are right about the longer lead giving a higher number. It should if things are working like they should. Switch the valves in the two leads and see what happens. Brandon

Without the dowels, your cylinders can be pulled or stressed into position when the head is torqued. This can cause both head leaks and mostly base gasket leaks. One big problem with the dual cylinder and single head setup. Brandon

Yeah, when you say it gets worse after riding or starts all of a sudden, that keys on electrical a bit. I have yet to find a CDI that is bulletproof so take your pic. All CDIs should be rubber mounted anyway and I feel Yamaha dropped the ball by not doing that. You need to uncouple the vibrations on the frame and the CDI chassis. Brandon

There is a plug in that pic?? Drop your plug gap to about .020 If you need more fuel, you can trash the stock fuel filter in the tank, drill the petcock, and install a high flow filter. That should be fine for your setup. Brandon

True that. Mainly, you RH cylinder will smoke like crazy when the seal is out. the vents on stockers should be routed not to vent on the pipes at all. The coolant however, on stockers, is routed to overflow right on the hottest part of the stock pipes. If that is the case, simply chop the tube and route front of the swingarm and to the ground. I would say if it is the vent that is truely pushing fluid, you have either an over fill problem or a crankcase leak that is venting pressure to the trans. It should not be making pressure down there. Brandon

I would bet on a pricey repair on this one. Sounds like the crank made change or the pistons skirts broke off. Any idea if the condition or hours on the motor? If you can pull the clutch and roll it, you trans is likely not the problem. Hope for something like a shattered clutch basket or something but either way, you get to R&R something. I would peek in the oil fill hole for obvious problems and them remove the head and go from there. There is just no way to know if it is engine or PTO gear related. I would bet on engine though. Any takers? Brandon

Without looking, the red and green are ignition and the stripers are the pulse coil. Either way, I would like to know what meter you are using or at least know that you did the test correctly. If so, I too would like to know why it failed so fast. Is this an OEM or RS setup? I bet Ricky would help you out if it is toast already. There is a reason. You can kill the lighting side by overloading but ignition side is high enough resistance that nothing should faze it. Might want to take a close look at the wire harness or at least check resistance right at the stator to eliminate wire issues. Brandon

I think fire guy got it covered. The helical gears (stockers) are smoother and quieter though they do induce more axial loading on the main bearings which are primarily designed for radial loads. Unless you are making big power, the stock gears can last you a lifetime and offer very acceptable main bearing life as well. Ever heard a gear drive cam in a V8? Brandon

the crank case is separated in the lower end and one side can leak and not the other. I am not confident that is your problem though. Sounds like carb sync to me. Pull your air filter and peek in and see if the slides move in unison with each other when opening the throttle. Adjust the adjusters on top of carbs as needed to make them open and close the same. Always best to do this with idle screws totally backed out. If that does not fix it, should be pilot jet on the LH carb. Take the bowl off and make damn sure it is clear. VERY tiny hole in it. Brandon