blowit

Where are you getting your data from? Why will a crank not last with more pop? detonation kills a whole lot more than a boost in static compression. Brandon

We looked at this years ago and were concerned about flame front propagation in the head but never really pushed too far with that. Let me know what you note in terms of performance and endurance changes. Brandon

The performance of the 38 is very dependent on engine setup and jetting. Doing the numbers, the 38 is a better choice, especially for a stroker. Not sure why your power was falling off with the 38 but should work great. Did YOU port it? If porting is out of the bubble, you may very well have to run a smaller carb to mask port timing issues. Just a thought. Brandon

There are a lot of back self certified engineers out there that will claim about anything at your expense. At least you are researching it before you do it. That shows initiative right there. The biggest thing to watch these days is the concentrate or premix thing. Many cos are screwing the public by pre-diluting the coolant. It is getting hard to find concentrate. Brandon

Not sure what changing your fluids will do for you. Not sure of the last question, but case oil can get to the crankcase area through a case leak or the crank seal RH. Identify the smoke first. Coolant also burns with a very obvious smell than any motor head could spot from 100 yards away. Brandon

Your a little off base on your coolants. Any color coolant can be concentrate or premixed. The Green stuff you are refering is typically Ethylene Glycol based and has been used for years and it what you would want to use in the banshee. The newer generation is Propylene Glycol based and is used in most OEM autos of today Like Gms Dex-cool. Dex can be purchased in premixed or concentrates. Anti-freeze can come in many colors but most are just different shades of red or green to identify the base product easier. It is not recommended to mix the two types either. There is another type called HOAT but I am not going into that. Buy the green stuff on concentrate and mix with deionized water and roll on. Brandon

The 38mm is a good size for you. If you are going to ride at any altitude, the bigger carbs help keep power up and you can absolutely tune a 38mm to grunt like a pig in heat on the bottom. Brandon

Sounds like the slides are on the wrong sides or you did not get your cables back in place quite right. If you twisted the cable, it can throw off your carb sync. take filter out and make sure cut away on bottom of slides is visible at the back of the slide. Also make sure both slides come up at the same time. You have a very simple problem and one that carb cleaning won;t fix. You have a tune problem. There is a washer on the main jet too, make sure you put it back in because it WILL affect jetting. Brandon

Well, coolant will burn fluffy white clouds so that might be your issue. Oil looks whitish but actually blue and trans oil will have the burnt oil smell. If it really is just your packing clearing out, it could take hours of riding to clear it out. You might just slide one half apart and inspect. Dripping with oil is time for packing. The packing does not work as well if it is soaked anyway. Brandon

Do not do that. Coolant in itself does not absorb heat as well as water. Listen---100% water absorbs heat better any day than 100% coolant or even 50/50 mix. Why do we use the stuff? simple, it lubricates, protects from freezing, and raises the boiling point of the fluid. The reason there are different ratios has to do with a certain level of protection from freeze or boiling, and nothing to do with the heat absorbtion. Now adays, there are additives like water wetter that are designed to optimize the heat absorbtion of water or should I say it does a little more absorbing than the water thus lowering operating temps. Brandon

I think he was referring to the 350X guy. No, the only way a plug can really bring temps up is a change in heat range or possibly a fatter spark. The only thing that makes sense is a unique vapor lock or water flow problem. This is just nothing in the engine that would just cause one side to run a lot hotter unless your piston is doing a bore job on that side from friction. If all things look good, you will have to study the water flow (that sucks ass in the banshees by the way) and determine what you can do to force coolant to that cylinder. Remember, getting wet does not do it. You must have "flow" of water to extract the heat from the cylinder and dissipate its energy through the radiator. If your other cylinder is fine, that is the only thing that makes sense. It may take some custom engineered diverters in the head to get it done. Remember, the banshee has one seriously piss poor flow pattern and reverse flow makes more sense than the conventional OEM flow pattern. Brandon

RU sure you did not stretch the tires when pressing them? If they are new and deformed, I would want new tires. Yes, there are sealers for bead problems but I bet you will always have problems in the future and flats in the sand sucks big. Sand in the bead is not cool. Brandon

You basically reiterated my point sir. The rigid hone will not reach into the ports and help smooth chamfering which is why they are preferred by most two stroke engine builders as a final step. There is no question as to its limitations but FAR more useful in the two stroke engines. Brandon

You know, that is one of the easiest parts to install and rarely actually bad. If you remove the coil wires and caps and test just the coil, that will tell the story. Most of the time, banshee coils show bad because of the wires or caps and not the actual coil. Keep in mind that bored to the max does not mean much to us. Drag, high duration porting and drag pipes should be considered when using those carbs. I would not have any bigger than a 33mm on that motor. Sounds like a basic 350 with a 90 over bore but not sure of your setup there. Brandon

I would respectfully disagree on the ball hone statements. True, they could never be used to make a hole round again but they are worth their weight in gold for two strokes. I do agree that running a rigid hone a couple times will tell the story of highs and lows. The flex hones also help to blend ports and smooth any roughness left by a rigid hone. Brandon

Wet plugs and backfiring is a sign of ignition miss that loads the pipes up with raw fuel. Not hearing it, it is just a guess but I have seen a bunch of people chase jetting ghosts over ignition related issues. I know those Lectron 36s are big daddy carbs so I hope he has the motor to use them. Brandon

Sounds ignition related to me. Not sure why to trans oil would affect the running though?? If you have not tried new plugs, you need to do it now. that is the first step in any engine miss. Brandon

Sounds ignition related to me. Not sure why to trans oil would affect the running though?? If you have not tried new plugs, you need to do it now. that is the first step in any engine miss. Brandon

Why is that half ass? If the hole is the right size, use it. Age or time does not constitute boring. The more you bore out, the more prone they are to liner warp. Brandon

Yes, that is a sign you might have some cylinder wear but maybe minimal. You will want to ball hone and re-hatch the cylinders before you put the new pistons in. The life of the engine depends on those scratches. Brandon

Agreed, heating the cases with a torch is just asking for problems. Uniform heating is preferred but is not needed with the banshee. Drops right together. Brandon

Did anyone try dropping the plug gap? Banshees are rather weak on spark and many require dropping the gap to around .020. It will act just like jetting is a bit fat and you will chase your tail trying to find it. Plug caps should be tested for resistance. a good cap should be between 3k-6k ohms. Most of the coils being replaced are actually good. A coil failure is rather rare. They are very simple boosting transformers and not much to go wrong. Brandon

I would bet the pistons are done and need replaced. You need to search the site for some threads about checking bores. As I have mentioned, you have to start with simple math. Measure it! If you do not have the tools to do this, have a shop do it. FYI, most shops will insist that you just bore it because they do not want to spec the bore and want your money. We like our motors to last so we only bore when it is really needed. As long as the bore is not oval or out of round by more than .0005, it will be fine. As far as clearance goes, .003 is what you are looking for. Motors will wear the pistons first so new pistons will close down the tolerance for sure. Measure and see. Brandon

So where are we on this deal. I want to know the story on this one. Or better yet, some pics of the mess. Brandon

Justin, you are going to get strong discouragement from most people and I am one of them. Not because if your willingness to learn but your lack of homework on the subject. They are called books my man, get some. Not saying you cannot do it, BUT if you think for one second that porting is simply smoothing ports out, then that is what we call a fluff and buff job in the industry and is not what we consider porting. The actual cutting itself can be learned in a day but the math and knowledge required is staggering for the DIYr. As I have always taught, it is one thing to take an engine apart and put it back together but taking it apart and knowing how to make it better or faster is a whole new level. I would say best of luck but research always yields a better outcome. When you are done with them, send me some pics and I will see if I can point you in the right direction. Brandon