blowit

Hope you have the alignment dowels in the base of your cylinders. Brandon

Man do I get shit for the smallest thing on here!! The .020 is a "for instance" or "example" purposes only. We do complete stress analysis on metals here so we know exactly how much a rod will stretch at a given piston acceleration, mass, and rpm. I have personally seem motors with .020 clearance and do not hit so the assumption that .020 is too tight is here say. I am not going to quote expansion numbers because I doubt you would believe me anyway. Brandon

Tune by sight and sound my son. Experienced tuners can get damn close without special tools on a twin. What I would recommend at this point is getting to the point that it sounds like crap and then test your stator and ignition coils. Also drop your plug gap to about .020 and if all this checks good, borrow a CDI and give it a try. Sounds like you may have a lazy one. This will cause a bike to act rich and you can fail a motor trying to tune around a bad CDI. Brandon

Good idea to leave it. that is your overflow protection. If the float level exceeds the top of that tube, it will dump on the ground rather than filling your engine with raw fuel. Brandon

Listen, if that bike ran fine before, DO NOT adjust the jetting. You will be chasing your tail. When you change only one variable at a time, you will save yourself some headaches. If you did not replace the plugs, do so immediately. Find out what type of oil you put in the bike from walmart. Semi synth, castor, full synthetic, what ratio? If you by chance hit some water when you started riding and got water on the air filter, that will cause this for sure. I would not assume electronics, or jetting at this point, simply something fuel related unless you know something else is going on. So damn hard to tell without experiencing this. Brandon

The static compression and squish are not related. Static compression numbers are based solely from the comparison of two volumes. The squish is irrelevant in comp testing. Squish numbers refer to running compression and and final squish velocities that must be calculated. Generally speaking though, the reason I said to check comp is because as you mill a head or cylinder to reduce squish clearance, you are also reducing chamber volumes. You can absolutely have a head with .020 squish clearance and still only make 100psi static compression. Both measurements must be referenced. Brandon

Please PM about getting those domes over here. Our engineering team would like to see them. Thanks Brandon

The impact driver is not to be confused with an air impact gun. The driver device is slick for removing slot and phillips bolts. Grab one from Sears and give it a try. If there is some tooth left, at least you won't steel shavings all over. The other way is to just grind a slot in the head of the bolt and remove it with a slot head screwdriver. I think the impact driver will work great for you though. Brandon

I am kinda wondering if you are having jetting problems and the noises you hear are just intake noise. A bike will fatten up or richen as it heats up. Drop your needle down or raise the clip one position to help lean the mid range. Also turn both air screws to 1.5 turns out by turning them in till seated then back out. You may need to set them out to 2.5 turns out. You tune the air screws to the best idle and throttle response right off idle. Put BRAND NEW plugs in and test jetting. You may need to drop the 190s depending on elevation. Also, take a look at that carb balance. Those slides need to open at exactly the same time or it will run like crap. Might no be a bad idea to look at eh water impeller too to make sure it has not started melting. Cheap insurance. Let me know. Brandon

Our squish depends greatly on several factors but yes, we have cut hundreds of banshee heads and many were in your .030-.035 area. Check your compression though. Brandon

You are all good. Run it!! We have cut too many to count. A stock banshee motor generally will be fine at .020 or more but .020 is pretty tight. .030-.035 is fine. Brandon

I think your best bet it to take them to an engine expert and spend the 10 bucks to have the holes checked properly. We inspect at about 6 points in the bore to check for taper and out of round. Only then can you compare this data to the piston dims to determine clearance. Brandon

I agree with fire guy on this one. I would get s second opinion on the clearances. We have also noted more piston slap with the the short skirt pistons that Vitos sells. The shorter skirt does several good things but at the sacrifice of piston stability and durability. You need to pay special attention to the cylinder taper and out of round specs. If everything is good, ride it. I will say that some strokers just make a little more noise. Brandon

HUH?? are we equating squish clearance to compression? Actually, the tighter that number, the less the chance of detonation. Who ever set that head knew what they were doing. Run it. WE have built hundreds of those heads and 90% of them on pump fuel. Just make sure to check your compression with it installed. Brandon

I wanna know who did your domes for you. I am sure I know why they cracked but I wanna know. Would you be willing to send us the domes for engineering purposes? We can offer a real deal analysis on them to determine the failure. Very interesting. PM me if interested. Brandon

No, I agree with you. Possibly a lean motor. Sounds like detonation at this point. I would like to inspect the head, plug, and oring to determine that. Brandon

Yes, it is common to smoke orings. Sometimes for no reason and sometimes from detonation. I would not be as concerned about hydro locking the motor as much as why the head is leaking so bad and for how long it ran like this. You pistons are clean because they just got power washed. Introducing water to an engine is not always a bad thing in moderation. Things end up clean as a whistle. Consider you problem as damage already done or no harm done. Either way, put it together and ride it. If it happens again, they you have a problem. If you forgot your locating dowel on the base of the cylinders, that can cause a flatness issue for the head to mate too. Just buy and try. But keep your ear tuned for detonation. Blown head gaskets are a very good indicator of that. Brandon

Yeah, sounds like you had some detonation and that will cause a drastic rise in temps and pressures. Very common to smoke an oring with detonation. Pull the head and take a peek. You should see obvious damage if it has been detonating. Brandon

I thought your were talking about eh YFZ450 reg. I do believe the Honda uses 3 phase output to the reg and the banshee stator is setup with single phase output. The reg would be good for it because the factory 450 stator makes 214watts at 5K rpm but you should get your self a single phase rectifier. To verify the reg, you should have three yellow input wires, a red 12VDC output and a green ground. You can generally get a simple reg for that from a dealer pennied out. If you buy a reg from an old Yammy electric start bike, things should work fine but I am not sure what all your doing there. Might be best to talk to someone on that. Brandon

Yeah, sorry about that. I should not reply when stressed I guess. Got my liquid sedative going now so all good. Sorry for the outburst. Brandon

You win, You are smarter. I should give me degree to you. Brandon

Some rectifiers use an energized diode system that consumes power as it sits. Some OEMs install them and a diode IS required in the system to reduce draw. What you have to remember is that is before power regulation so a .7V drop will not affect for final target DC value, This is very common in alternators in the auto industry. Brandon This is assuming you stay above your drop out voltage of the regulator. Most alternators will make about 20VAC or more at idle so those are safe numbers when working with a 12VDC reg/rect.

We have two Banshees that need to go. We are getting two new industrial machines and need room like now. First machine is my jack around bike. 2003 blue machine. Coolhead, T-5s, Laeger arms, TCS sero preload shocks on front, a few other bolt ons Price is 3600 with all the stuff on it. Engine is damn tight and bke needs nothing but a rider. Next machine is a 2003 builder. Bike has brand new plastics for it, new painted chassis, near new T-5s, flat slide carbs, everyting is here but needs assembled. Situation is we were doing a build for a guy and money fell short so we aquired the whole bike. I will personally assemble th bottom end. Crank is new new, Bottom end WILL be good to go. Topend will just need pistons and maybe a bore. Basically if someone can find the two days to assemble this bike, it will be onw SWEET looking machine. Frame color is metallic deep red, and plastic is silver. Price is 2K as is. I am not here to screw anyone on these. We just need them gone. The builder is nice and was only taken apart to paint the frame up. Probably missing a few nuts and bolts on the chassis but only simple stuff. All electrics and such are here. [email protected]

I kinda oppose the visual thing. Lack of grain or crosshatch means lack of oil retention and heating can be an issue. You WANT crosshatches. I would say, measure, and possible ball home and put new pistons in. New pistons does not mean you always have to bore it. Measure it man!! To many people just bore to be safe when all it takes a few minutes and a calculator to save your self .010", about 90 bucks, and a trip to the machine shop. Brandon

External floated ground. Yeah, get a digraph of the wiring. Super simple. Will work just fine. You will also want a diode in the pos line from the charge coil to battery so back voltage is not a problem. It can drain your battery depending on how you wire it. The diode is a fail safe but I would consider it mandatory. B