blowit

Listen, that is a classic case of the TORS "doing their job"! You have a carb hanging up and the reason it revs when you touch the throttle is it disengages the TORS when you are on the thumb throttle. Sounds like a slide is stuck open. Everyone points at the TORS like they are a problem but there is a reason Yamaha installed them. We generally get rid of them but they do work. I doubt your carbs are dirty, your motor is toast, or any on the above. Pull the slides and check the throttle cable. frayed cable is generally causes this. Brandon

I would be wondering about your meter. Some meters, even one of my Flukes, do not have enough resolution to read accurately. Might want to try another meter. brandon

You sound like you speak from experience my good man!!

My problems are generally found with a couple pitchers of beer at a night club. Brandon

GD, does that mean you would pay me 1200 to actually fix the problem?? Hell, I won't even put a harness in it! If you are sure of a harness issue, they generally lie around the steering stem. If you can flip the bars around and mimic the problem, you found it. Not sure if I have ever bought a new harness. Shame on you for taking the easy way:-)

I am thinking, you have not already done so, pull the head and pipes and take a peek. I am concerned that the heating issue could be that reed stuck on the side of the piston or already damaged it and the extra friction is causing the heat. You have some strange problems so you need to start testing and eliminating things. I am a little worried about the top end. Brandon

The way to find a problem if this nature is to verify good parts and check them off the list. If all major components are verified good, then you need to focus on harness pinches, grounding issues and such. The banshee system is very simple and you should be able to stop a wiring problem rather easy. If everything checks good, borrow a CDI and try it. The CDI can give symptoms such as this. Brandon

Hah, I am interested to hear what is all up on the Harley product other than marketing? I would agree that fit and finish are second to none but come on, a motor that shakes violently and drops bolts from day one. Am I missing something? I guess I worked in Yammy dealership for too many years. Brandon

Yep, check the oil level, fire it and find the source. That is how to solve the problem. Let me know. If the dump tube is in the intake, it will look like it leaks from the air cleaner. Brandon

You really need to look at port timing when attempting stuff like this. Yes, we do base side facing of cylinders and it is not that easy. ALso, the banshee piston will not pop out of the hole 4mm without problems. We have worked some precision magic on certain setups but you need to know how to adjust that engine or you are just spinning your wheels--or not. Brandon

that sucks when your rod get welded!! Seriously, what are you talking about?? The clutch push rod? If that is the case, let us know. A bigger hammer will always get it out. Brandon

I would point out that most machine shops will not be able to cost effectively build that crank or get the timing right. Singles are easy but a twin takes a bit more than a press and parts to do it. We had one here that the guy had an engine shop just "build it" and it was, seriously, like 20 degrees wrong!!! Yeah, it was a costly mistake for him. Brandon

Um, I ain;t no Harley tech but what I have seen with them is, well, less than well engineered! Anyway, the other half rides them so I get work with them regardless. I would like to know where this oil is coming from?? Some older bikes have this DA dump tube that basically dumps oil right into the intake and filter. If they sit for several weeks, they will dump like a 1/2 qt on the floor when they start up. I can;t remember what it connects too but it was a foggy idea to say the least. The only bike that is well engineered IMO, is the V-rod. Best friend has one and it runs like a top and is actually smooth! Good luck, let me know more and we will go from there. Brandon

I would say, by the symtoms, you either killed your pulse coil, or the flywheel key sheared. You can check resistance on the stator and pulse coil without removing the cover but kinda sounds like you need to pull the stator cover to find the problem. Brandon

If you had response before and now it acts strange. Check or removed air filter for testing and change plugs. Let me know more and maybe I can help more Brandon

I would highly recommend a professional inspection before you repair it. Especially when porting is involved, it could have portly chamfered ports, irregular port shaping, wrist pin bearing failure, tapered bore, the list goes on. Bottom line, do not assemble it again without knowing. That 20 dollar inspection can save you hundereds down the road because pistons do not fail for no reason and the stocks will hold about anything but detonation and you are not running a 14mill stroker here. I would wager the pistons were worn out when they went back in but you need to know for sure. Brandon

Slides are stuck open. The Tors is doing it's job by cutting the ignition. Pull the air filter and verify that the slides or one of them are stuck and go from there. Brandon

You "upgraded" the topend and reused pistons? What did you upgrade? Letting off the gas or not would not cause piston shattering unless you decided to downshift for no reason. I had a friend that popped a nice chevy small block because he loved to downshift instead of using brakes. If you ran it lean, you might have stuck a piston but not made change of one. Brandon

Yes, a new crank is a SUPER idea but if you decide to try the old one, you MUST clean it thoroughly before using. It is NOT normal to shatter a piston so the very first thing you need to find out is why it failed???? I would say excessive piston clearance but that would mean it went together loose as a hooker on nickel night. Figure this out before you go any further. Brandon

Yep, I would bet on FOD or moisture killing the crank. That is assuming the top end was assembled right and will the right clearances. If you pull a pipe off and find a steel pin in in, a crank is in your future. Brandon

I would not be all smiles about that squish number. If we were building that motor, we would rework something to make that right. .070 is asking for detonation problems though your compression is not that high so you might be ok but NOT optimal. Brandon

Um, your are a little off on your basics of three phase power there. I would say, rather than writing a novel here, you might do a little research on that subject because the number of wires or poles is irrelevant to phasing. The banshee uses single phase power output but Honda has it right with some of their three phase stators. Three phase is my preference. We actually made a test generator utilizing a VFD to test harmonics in constant loss ignitions. I would say, they are irratic, but single phase it is. Brandon

Approx cost is 100 for the sleeve and 100 for the labor. Unless you are adding a big bore setup, it is rarely cost effective to do so unless you are saving a 500 dollar port job. Brandon

Yes, the cylinder to toast. Never use a cracked cylinder. the crank WILL continue it;s path. You can have it sleeved. Heat pitting can lead to pre-ignition. It is not recommended though many here do run them without problems. Brandon

Get a book, pull the crank, and get it welded. Brandon