blowit

I would say either someone has some wires crossed or the clutch hubs are locked together. It is simply mechanically impossible that the clutch could work with 6 steels and I say this from many standpoints including lack of friction, clutch pack height, and the lack of even begin able to couple the engines power to the trans. I would say, OH YES, replace the entire clutch pack and I would even pull the basket and inspect things. Generally, when someone assembles a motor poorly, it is worth inspecting any work that was "performed." You really need to look at the mechanics of that clutch but I assure you, it cannot work as stated. You WILL have a normal clutch pull if the pressure plate and springs are installed correctly, but that pressure will apply to nothing. Steel on steel would slip like crazy and overheat in 5 minutes and weld together. You simply cannot run similar metals together in a high friction situation. They will gauld. MIght want to ask the dog or the one that took it apart, where the frictions are at. Brandon

Here is another common question I get, " the lights are now much brighter at idle than with my stock stator, does this mean it is making more power at idle"? Fire cabeza , you wanna have a go?

I will take that head if it is still available. Brandon

Very insightful question and the answer is that the charge system "capacity" is what is increased with a bigger stator setup. No, you will not incur any more parasitic loss when comparing the two stators at the same load. What you might want to research is EM fielding and flux in motors. This will apply to all induction type generators including alternators. They will basically only use what they need to drive the load. This will be the same for the flywheel as long as weights are equal. If rotational mass increases, obviously, it will take more power to turn it at all engine loads. Good question. Brandon

You must mean reciprocating mass? I think wiseco has done a good job of making them as light as possible without killing reliability. Shorter pistons don't stabilize very well. I think what he is talking about is oiler holes for bridged type exhaust ports. The 250Rs had this and it was VERY common for that bridge to get very hot and stripe the piston. There are oiler holes in the piston to help combat this problem. We always enlarge them a bit. The banshee does not use the bridged exhaust port so that is not an issue. Brandon

If you were to install the top arm on the other side, the end result would be like 20 degrees more caster. The key here guys is "caster". Measure it and it will lead you right to how the arms should be installed. Remember, negative camber should be avoided. Brandon

take it apart, you have a problem. Brandon

simply watch the caster inclination during install. One way will be way off from the normal 1-2degrees of positive inclination. You should never have negative caster or instability will result. The shocks must mount vertically as well. Brandon

I will bet on a ground problem. Check the black wire from the stator and make sure the bolts securing the stator are tight. You either have a loose connection or a grounding problem. Possible water in the stator cover. Brandon

Jetting, and more jetting. I agree to dump the 16T sprocket. Stock gearing works fine. Also advance timing to help smooth the powerband. Brandon

The system will generally short showing very low resistance if the stator fails. Open line can sometimes just be a loose or broken wire. YOu can also check continuity from the yellow attachment point on the stator, to the termination connection. Brandon

Because the stator is not isolated from the motor, that black wire can hook to any firm attachment point on the motor case. You need to check resistance between the yellow output wire and either the engine case or that black wire if grounded. Just because you don't have lights does not mean your stator is bad. If your regulator is shorted to ground internally, this will cause a drain on the lighting system. This would also cause thermal run away in the wire. If you already have the stator in hand, please check from the solder point for the yellow wire right at the stator to eliminate a questionable harness. Brandon

Q: What type of two stroke oil should I use and what ratio? A: Well that really depends on what kind of engine and fuel you are using. Generally the manufacturer

Change air in tires to keep it fresh and change oil every 30min, that should keep you running good.

WOW, I ain;t seen that one yet and I have found sockets in engines before!!! Brandon

Yes, it can be done but is more using in racing motorcycles to reduce miss shifts in road racing. That is a simple external linkage change but the banshee needs parts drilled and moved. Not a a 5 minute swap. Brandon

We are searching for a used CDI for a warrior. Hoping someone has something laying around. They are all the same 88-95 models and hit and miss on the 96. This one would have all the wires coming off of it. They are not available aftermarket so hoping to find a good used one. Brandon

Tires start hooking up, tires stop spinning on wheels, clutch quits slipping, jetting is lean. You pick. Brandon

We never recommend going over 2mm over but do what you have too. If your corrosion is not in a bad area, you might be able to run with it. If you want to post pics of the questionable spots, I can help you with that. Pretty much, if it is above the top of the exhaust port, you are screwed though. I would bore to 66.25mm and run it and check the top end frequently for wear. Brandon

One thing you might watch is false meter reads. Depending on what meter you use, they may or may not give a true RMS reading. Because the frequency is sporadic you may be OK and not know it. Generally, I would not expect 16V on an RMS meter but peak to peak, you bet it will hit that. Burnt wiring would be caused by too low of a resistance to ground. IE, a grounded or shorted wire and this would also cause dim lights. A simple way to test for a stator short is by checking resistance from the yellow wire to chassis. We see a bunch of replaced regs that are good simply because if it loses connection to the stator output, it will not regulate. Brandon

Simply unplug the TORS box directly above the LH cylinder. It is mounted to the frame. I would verify spark while kicking. I really doubt the TORS is your problem from the sounds of it. However, if you are touching the throttle and it is not adjusted properly, it may cause problems. Brandon

Sure sounds electrical. We have one in the shop right now with an intermitant miss and when it relights, it will cause this. That would point at either the pulse generator gap or the CDI. Of course if a main jet is plugged, it will do near the same. We always use a scope to determine to rule out electrical problems B

.009 is a mile for a piston tolerance. I agree that there is something wrong. Possible even the wrong stamp on the piston. IE, it might be a 64.75mm piston. If it has not crown expansion relief, something is odd. Brandon

If it is truly a bad apple, they will probably cover it but they should be checked before using. I would not trust your bottom of skirt measurement now that it has been run and damaged. The skirt may be bent. I also would not rely on a caliper to measure the piston. We generally see the Wiseco pistons hold .0002 in tolerance. Brandon