blowit

Yeah that will sometimes work fine. We generally glue a couple in the cap. Brandon

More than likely, the slides are hanging up on the alignment pin in the carb slide bore. They do this because of over travel in the vertical when you twist the throttle open. The easiest way to fix is to add a rubber shims in the carb top to prevent over travel. Make sure your slide still opens all the way though. Brandon

If it is all unplugged, that will not matter. There switches in each carb top and the thumb throttle assy. No worries there. Brandon

Yes, test ignition side and pickup coil. The inductive pickup rarely fails unless hit by something. The lighting side of the stator will not affect the ignition side. If it tests good, I would look for something unplugged, grounded, or open like a TORS switch or failing kill switch. Brandon

There is a plastic clip that retains the wires in the coil. I did note in some manuals that the coil testing procedure is wrong! YOu need to test plug wire to plug wire for secondary transformer and T1 to T2 for primary testing. I really doubt that coil is bad. Most of the time, it is a stator issue. I highly recommend you remove the plug caps and test separately and add that value to your coil test value. The caps do fail frequently. Brandon

Yes, your Trinity head uses "fire rings" around the domes and require a dead soft copper gasket to seal against the cylinders. there are also o-rings to seal other areas of the head. Good news is they work better for big bore applications. You will more than likely have to call Trinity to get your parts. Probably 50 bucks just in seals. Those heads went over like a turd in a punch bowl because of their complexity. I am never excited to work with them. Brandon

parts are not associated with the shift cam. The flat washer looks like it may be brass which may be needed but the other two are not banshee engine parts. Brandon

The only area where crosshatch angle becomes critical is for very EPA friendly cars to meet emissions. There is some reseach to prove that some finishes and angles will reduce oil use but we are talking a drop a week. On a bike, that sound just like Harley to "spec" a crosshatch angle. Whatever. 45 degree has been the norm for years and life of an engine will NOT depend on the angle but rather the run in procedure and grit of the hone used to hone the cylinder. Too corse of a grit can cause excessive heat and glazing on new engines. Brandon

On an inertial dyno, there are a multitude of things that may skew accurate data from the dyno. It is hard to say if the data is accurate or you have issues with your bike. If you want to post up your data, maybe I can help. Generally speaking, if you have strong torque numbers, that would indicate the clutch is holding. You may be way off on jetting up top. You may have also reached a point of clutch slip at a certain torque value and the dyno load decreased for that reason. Also could just be tire slip. You are using tire slip calcs right?? The reasons those balls weld are not really the dynos' fault but a fault with the banshee design. There is not sufficient axial load absorbtion on that one ball. Heaver springs just make things worse. It would do exactly the same thing if you coast down a large hill with the clutch in. Brandon

That is exactly right, with the clutch in, adjustment simple does not matter. Bottom line, the dyno was THE problem. They kill more clutch rods than any form of riding. Those damn inertial dynos! They just take too long to spool down and that is where the problem lyes. Brandon

The milky color would indicate water is seeping into the oil. Water pump is the primary culprit. If you are not over filled and leaking form the breather, that may indicate a crank seal leak or case mating surface leak. Basically building pressure in the crank case. Brandon

Q: What type of two stroke oil should I use and what ratio? A: Well that really depends on what kind of engine and fuel you are using. Generally the manufacturer

You need to just back off the side idle screws to where they do not contact the slides and tighten them. No need to remove and seal the holes. Use the top idle screws. If your cable is tight, it should not be. You must have some slack at the throttle lever for things to work right. If your TORS system is unplugged, you can use the side idle screws but it could present carb balancing problems. Brandon

Large screws on top of TORS boxes are idles. Small brass screws on left of carbs towards filter side are air bleed screws for fine idle-1/8 throttle adjustment. Larger screws on side with lock nuts sounds like idle screws for TORS eliminator kit. Someone probably took the kit off and put the TORS back on just for you. Might shoot a pic but if that is the case, back the side screws most of the way out and tighten and never touch them again unless you put a TORS eliminator kit back on. Brandon

That is correct. Octane boosters are a gimmick and should not be confused with high octane race fuels. 10 Octane "points" = 1 octane "number" Most of your boosters will boost 5-9 octane points and that will do little or no good for most applications. It was brought in to help skate by with the older engines that required leaded fuels and keep them from knocking. If you want to save money, look into fuel tuning. Benzine is a common booster and the main ingredient in boosters. Buy it by the gallon and blend your own. "research" the subject before attempting. This is not like mixing your weed eater gas. It should be done right and not fudged. Why not drop the compression and add 5% Nitro??? That should save you some money at the pump. Brandon

Well I guess I did not ask if all the wiring was OEM. Generally, when I see a rats nest of amateur wiring, that is my VERY first suspect in an electrical problem. Hopefully you have spotted the problem. Sounds like you are on the right track now. Brandon

Let the bike run till it dies and retest stator leads. You may have a short in the stator that is not showing up. You can also monitor the stator output with a meter while running and see if it falls off when warm. I really doubt it is the ignition coil so that leaves the stator. You saved your self some money by at least testing the CDI, now move on. Did you move the wires around while running? Does the bike good when it runs? Does it die like you hit the switch or slowly go down? Remember also to check the resistance in your multimeter before performing tests. Some meters do not zero out and may show 1 ohm or more in resistance. We see a lot of burned up wiring in banshees from the pipes hitting the harness. Something to look at. Brandon

Hygroscopic B

sounds like a typical CDI short. Find someone with the same CDI and try it. Another thing to try is moving the wiring around while it is running and see if there is a change. If not, there ya go. Good job in isolating your problems instead of guessing. Another thing to look at is the condition of spark. Turn the lights off and check for blue spark. Orange is a sign of primary low voltage. If all coils test good, you are still on the right track with the CDI. Brandon

I think you have the stroker and longrod setups confused. You can not use stock pistons with an RD400 rod (115mm). You must either use the blaster pistons or 795 pistons and will return you near to stock porting. By using stock pistons, your piston would come out of the hole 5mm, which is tooo much and would have your port timing off by more than even I can correct. You should simply install the longrod crank and supplement with 795 pistons and hit the trail. There is a small rod angularity change that will affect port timing but not enough to worry about on a trail tuned motor. DO not expect big torque changes with this setup. They do run better but you will not have any benefit in the trails. Simply put, the reduction of rod angle allows for more rpms and a bit more HP on the top. Brandon

I am not real sure why you would intentionally mix gasoline with your alky?? You are weakening your brew by doing that. Also, keep in mind that if you tuned for Methanol before, you will need to retune drastically for Ethanol. They are not even in the same tuning zip code. Regardless of the mix, if you have alky in a two stroke, you need to purge after a week. Obvious bearing damage can and will occur to the main bearings and big end rod bearings. The biggest reason there is a blend of gasoline in E85 at the pump is due to cold weather performance and to actually reduce the octane number. If you want max performance, go water your weeds with the gasoline and dump the Ethanol right in. REMEMBER that many oils do NOT mix with alky so watch that. Klotz is about the best. If you want added protection for your bearings, you can put additives in your fuel such as upper lube by VP that will help coat and combat problems. I recommend some more research before playing with it. You will still need to increase fuel flow to protect against sucking your bowls dry. Brandon

OH, I am kinda wondering if that backfiring you have is right after a throttle chop? This will kill the ignition and allow the pipes to load with fuel and then burn it when the motor lites again. Brandon

Depends on severity of damage. Pits can lead to pre-ignition. Not a real good idea. Brandon

We have been tuning on E85 for about 3 years now. YES, it works great but will not take as much compression as 99% Methanol. Fire guy, you should be scolded for saying all those alkys are the same. You know better. NEVER confuse Methanol with Ethanol. They have different properties and will tune in TOTALLY different. We can actually just big jet the carbs for E85 and that ain't gunna work with M100. Bottom line, if cannot tune carbs do NOT mess with it. A, Alky is more bitchy about jetting B, the E mixure changes with the seasons and can vary from like 70/30-90/10 and that will throw you every time. If you cannot identify the state of tune, it can cause bad things. Remember to always use a alky soluble oil. Brandon