blowit

Listen, you need to listen to what I posted way above. TORS!!!!!! One of your big problems is your are confusing your TORS system with your parking brake rev limiter. Sounds like you already cut that off but I will put my left on the fact that your TORS are doing their JOB! Everyone seems to think that when they do this, it is a TORS problem, errrh. Actually, your TORS are doing the job they are supposed to and as soon as it sensed closed throttle at the handle bar and one of the carbs is still open, it will cut the ignition and this is why you have no idle. I will bet money that if you just touch the throttle, it revs to the moon? Put some throttle cables on and be done. Keep in mind there are cables in the TORS boxes as well. Sorry to rant but I hate to point out the problem only to be ignored. You can also rebuild your engine and add a stroker crank to help find it but that will not fix your throttle problem. Brandon

The long rod motor was popular 10 years ago when you had no option but to rebuild them. A simple swap with the RD rod. You also had to rn the blaster piston and was commonly called the 370 long rod motor because you had to bore the motor to max which we were not a fan of. The reduction of rod angle brought plenty of rpms to the party. You are reducing rod angle with that setup and the introduction of the 4mm stroker brings the rod angle back to near OEM specs. The reason it is so popular now is because it is easier than ever to get a 4mm crank cheap. Brandon

Is there some reason you are pointing right at the rings? Sounds more jetting related from here. Brandon

There are several factors that play into conrod length. There is not a set ratio that I am aware of because wrist pin locations vary so much. It really depends on what the OEM is trying to achieve with the engine. It also depends on rod *angle* which is directly related to where the power will be. What is more relevant is the stroke compared to the bore. It has been taught for years that the ideal motor is near "square" or the stroke equals the bore but for the last couple decades, most are going larger bore and shorter stroke. We absolutely love the 4mm long rod setups for the banshee. The numbers simply dictate that all critical areas are still well within tolerance referring to loads while still increasing both top end and bottom end. The motor will last just as long as the 350 stocker but with more punch. Brandon

I would add that it is not necessarily material that is added or not added, but moved that becomes a problem in welding. To put it in lame terms, you may add 2 grams of mass at R1.220, but remove 2 grams of mass at R1.200. That can and will affect inertial forces enough to effectively say that the crank has an imbalance. Welding simply is not that precise. However, as stated, the small amount of imbalance does not create problems so role on. Just food for thought I guess. Brandon

Hair line cracks in a mostly stock bike, I want to see this!! Your problems would mostly related to the TORS system and you lilely have a frayed throttle cable or something is holding a slide up. Post some pics of this or PM me pics of these cracks. linear scratches in the bore are not cracks. It is entirely possible but backfiring can be caused simply by lean jetting and carb balance problems will sure force one cylinder to run lean. Brandon

sounds lean on the bottom. Try turning in the air screws to 1/2 turn out from seated. If that does not do it, pull the carb bowls and report back with the pilot jet size. Lean pilot circuits cause poor starting problems. You should only need a blip of throttle with no choke or no throttle with choke to start it. Brandon

I think the terms "balance" and "true" are getting confused. They are NOT one in the same. Truing refers to axial and radial alignment of the crank. Balancing refers to adding or subtracting weight to obtain a "balanced" rotating mass. Balancing is not common on the Banshee but standard practice in many other engine applications. Theoretically, yes, the weld itself can and will cause balance problems regardless if fillers are used or not. After the fact though, I see no way to check or repair the balance of the crank when welded. In regards to the banshee, just properly truing the crank generally puts the balance close enough that it does not matter. We have seen countless new cranks that are welded up but trued VERY poorly. We have returned plenty because .006-.009" is just toooo much runout and your handlebars will agree. Brandon

Sounds like you are running on one. Change the plugs and go ride. Brandon

You are fine. Run it. Brandon

Those air screws have an effective range to 1/4 throttle. Do not confuse them with main jet adjustment. The air screws will have little to do with how your bike performs at WOT. Always start by tuning that main jet and work your way down. I agree that 280-300 will be in the ballpark. Brandon

If you can pinpoint the leakage area where the laquer coating is rubbed off the wiring, you can use liquid polyurethane to coat the wiring and repair the damage. This can often be done instead of rewinding the stator. If rewinding is needed, I recommend sending it in as it can take some time if not experienced with it. Brandon

It is very normal for operating temps to rise during break in. There is a lot more friction in a new motor that must be dissipated. A close eye on temps is a must, especially when you are substantially boosting the displacement of the engine. If you are having this much trouble, I would want to know what the piston/cylinder clearances look like and if you have damaged the Nikasil yet. Brandon

drag ported 350 with carbs or bigger. with that much A/F mixture hitting the plug, it can snuff the spark so the gap needs to be reduced on the OEM system. Basically because of a weak ass ignition system. with quality ignition upgrades, this should not be needed though. Brandon

Guess the next phase might be finger painting?? Gotta stay away from those little markers though. They leave a bad after taste. Next time I need to know how much my gas tank holds, I will see if you can find me formula in your color book, K :thumbsup: Brandon

thats a big 10-4. restraint is often needed. Brandon

Right but for a Warrior, not a Banshee. Brandon

The BR8ES comes factory with .028" gap. The factory gap is fine unless you have a heavy breather in which you will need to reduce gap to around .020". Brandon

370.14cc Minimal power gain but the warrior responds well to porting, high compression, and a hot cam. Brandon

Making the assumption that all will be good if just run as is, is concerning. Not ALL components will be happy with pieces of rubber in them. Like bearings. A piece of rubber in a bearing is enough to cause abnormal ball pressures and brinneling of the balls (flat spots). Probably will never know but you can compromise the life of the bottom end. I would not chance it. There is no oil filter. No it will not hurt the gears but the bearings they ride on that you need to worry about. Brandon

What was your question again??

Premium pump fuel is all you need. Brandon

If it is seizing up and knocking, it sure sounds like a rod bearing. The odd feel of crank rotaion may be the magnetic flux of the flywheel magnets. Just remove the flywheel and spin it over. If it still does not feel right, just take it apart. You probably will have to break it down anyway and you need to find the problem. They do not seize up for no reason. Brandon

I am still thinking the testing is off. That tester and or lead are giving a false reading. Very possible to have excessive squish but I still think another test with a real tester would help a bunch. Brandon

nah, it sounds like he may have a slide stuck open. They are kinda known for that. Guessing he does not have the TORS system on?? Brandon