blowit

We have a couple of these angle tools in the shop but have a couple applications that could use a little more beef of the tool. Just curious if anyone else makes these? What did you guys pay for yours? It has been years but I think we got raped even back in the day on our angle porting tools. 5 bills or so for the one hand piece. Brandon

From the sound of it, you did not pull the cam? You are just checking it? Remember that the crank turns once per 2 revs of the cam. The best way to know you are at true TDC is by feel but that takes experience. Your valves adjusters should not be tight if it is at true TDC, there should be a slight amount of lash there. If it is timed right, I would say you have hung in intake valve or hang one stuck open. The easiest way to find a crap valve is to pull the cams and push them in with a piece of wood or plastic and listen for them to tap down nicely. A bent valve does not have a pronounced tap when it seats. Probably because it doesn't. Brandon

A new bike should get you fixed up.... can you just bend the wheel back over with a prod bar?

You are not going to get much higher comp than you have right now. You also have hinted on something I have explained for years and that is compression numbers do NOT always reflect an engine's condition and life left. I have literally tested a motor with 170psi pumping comp with the rings in several pieces and falling out of the piston. Regarding your starting problem, you need to make sure your carbs are balanced correctly and you may need to adjust the pilot screw to get it to start better. Try turning both all the way in and start there. Brandon

No

That is a best guess unless you can share porting specs on the jugs. I think you will be best suited to have an engine professional examine your setup to make sure it will work with a spacer. Anything else may be a guess. Brandon

Do you really need a play by play?

Q: What type of two stroke oil should I use and what ratio? A: Well that really depends on what kind of engine and fuel you are using. Generally the manufacturer

This technology has been beat to death in other threads. Please do a search and you will find all you need to know about power valves. In short, you ride woods and tight, technical stuff, you want it. You drag only, you do not need it. Brandon

A banshee engine runs very nice WFO but MUST be tuned for it. Yes, the Banshee can absolutely handle wide open straights for long durations. You would want to switch to 24:1 oil ratio and and jet up for it. That means you fatten jetting to the point it stutters, back off just a hair, and you are there. You also cannot run quite as much timing. Remember, the Banshee engine was originally designed as a street bike engine.

Always test a meter first by putting the two leads together to ensure it zeros. If not, you will need to add that value to your tested value. I would bet your lighting side is fine. Test values can be slightly out of specified range and still work fine. Brandon

You would be fine by installing a type of valve on the hose of the head and using it purely as a bleeder when adding coolant. That is primarily it's function. It serves no use once the air is purged. Many other heads just use a bleeder screw but I guess Yam thought it would be smarter to just add a hose so there is one less step adding coolant. Fill coolant system, open bleeder till coolant comes out, start/run engine for 1-2min, open bleeder again to check for air, done. You should really always have a way to displace the air in any coolant system. Brandon

I agree with D. inspect well but from the looks, I would not think it is that bad. The important part is the big end rod bearing. If all the Al is in flake form, you can simply flush and roll but if it was vaporized and deposited on the bearing pins (will look like splotches),you might need another. We call this "justification for modification". Brandon

That has pretty much been our determination here. We do not have one of those fancy laser things that will identify an alloy but a large local OEM does so we are going to try and arrange that. Our thinking is the failures may only be from sub-par material that may or may not even be 6061-T651. Probably just a 3 string company trying to save a buck and using junk bar stock.

Yep, doable. Most here must not remember this before the RS plate days. Billet plates were costly at over 100 bucks so the OEM plate could be modded for much less. We used to offer the service at +4 for around 35.00 but the RS plate put that mod on the bench even though the RS plate quality does not hold a candle to the OEM plate. All they have to do is hold the pulse generator steady. There are no problems or concerns in modding the OEM plate. Works fine. We used to mill grooves for timing verification but most just hog them and go. B

We were quoted 4.20/lb recently!!!!! Jeeze, that is getting up to stainless numbers. I agree 7075 may not be needed for something like this. In our aerospace division, we run a lot of 7075 and you know when you bite into it. It runs very nice but VERY obvious it is stout stuff by the machines talking. Nothing like 6061. It machine more predictably as well. Brandon

As you well may know, 6061 is bottom barrel Al and is usually not a suitable structural alloy anyway. Kind of leaning harder on alloy selection or supplier origin. We have seen three domes in the past month that have failed in rather ridiculous areas so it is time to discover why. Of course no markings on the domes so no idea who made them. R&D guys are wanting something to do anyway. Brandon

10-4, appreciate the input. Pretty much follows the lines we have seen. Kaboom does bad things to an engine. Brandon

I have every confidence that is a "buddy bid". My big bore PV R did not cost that with a full Laeger chassis, Pro-Trax suspension, and a 100HP single lung motor. I would have expected at least some cubs and a Chromoly Chassis. Stage 3 porting???? Nuts....

Just magnaflux testing but a couple others just a phone call away if we really need them. Seems most of the problems we have investigated were induced by operator error. Specifically AFR,CCR, fuel selection, or timing. I blew some all to hell years ago with Nitro but I have to exclude that little hiccup. I did more than crack the domes.... Brandon

That is one of the modes we are looking into. We feel alloy selection is a concern.

I guess, either way really. We just have not seen too many failures and curious what guys are mostly referring to when they say they have a cracked dome. I could not see custom domes being too much different than off the shelf units unless they are extreme stroker cases or whatnot.

Thanks. We have noticed several domes out there that do not have sufficient radii on all edges to prevent problems but not sure if we are missing anything else.

bump No one has had dome issues?

I think he answered his own question on the problem. If the regulator is not chassis grounded, it will NOT regulate voltage. If you can rev the bike to around 5000rpm and the voltage is over 15V, you have a problem. It really should not climb much of 14VAC really. The reason you have no lights is because they are blown. They will work at idle but as soon as you zing the motor, you will get a nice 20VAC hit that will toast the bulbs. Get your reg checked out first thing. Brandon