blowit

CR = V1/V2 V1 = volume at BDC V2 = volume at TDC Brandon

Did you "really" clean the pilots? Remove, inspect, clean, blow compressed air through, reinspect, install?? How is that carb sync looking? Slides come up at the same rate and time? Brandon

Carb slide sync or LH pilot jet in carb. One of those. brandon

Show pics of what you are looking at. From the wear I saw on your plates, your basket is likely toast. Yes, bike should go into neutral right now. Since clutch cover is off, make sure the shift shaft is all the way in. An experienced hand should be able to tell you in a few minutes if there is a trans concern. Might want to get someone over to look. They are not hard to diagnose. Brandon

On the right track. See where your needles are as well. That will affect the small throttle openings as well. Spray around the base of the cylinders with propane gas or equivalent to detect air leaks. Also, may have jet blockage as well. Those pilots are damn finicky about contaminates. All banshees should be fitted with an in line filter because the OEM tank filter does nothing but slow the fuel down... Your carb slides are balanced correctly, right? Brandon

We have had several questions on alcohols so thought I would clarify. The head was tested using Methanol. 100% Ethanol can also be used with a little less timing but E85 should not be used with this head until we can do some tests. We will more than likely have to tune E85 with additives to get acceptable detonation suppression. Brandon

I am surprised no one caught those nasty grooved plates in your first pics. The clutch ball is fine. Your clutch pack made change and likely due to excessive chatter and irregular forces on them from being worn out (Force on one finger instead of all 12). With the clutch apart, you need to make sure the main axle (center shaft of clutch) spins free as a bird in N and bike can be shifted in all gears. Normal for it to bind a bit without the engine running but should get pos engagement in all gears. Take chain off and confirm PTO is spinning. You need to carefully inspect the clutch basket and inner hub for wear or you will be right back in there again if they are toast. Brandon

You don't believe me?? :biggrin:

Yes, bore em. Bores are eccentric at the top by .002. That is unacceptable and needs correctly. First punch is .020 over. Pistons are about .006 clearance right now which is not horrible. If you want to push the envelope, do not waste your money on new pistons for those bores and run the old ones. You have obvious piston slap though and that is causing your excessive wear at the top normal to the wrist pin. Piston cocks in the hole. I will bet the rings are pretty worn. Check the end gap and report back. How are you measuring this stuff? Brandon

I am in the midwest and it is time for another set of shoes for the big truck. I am always blown away with the price hike on these suckers. Does anyone know where I can online order some meats on the cheap? Has to be Mickey. This will make my 4th set. B

We have cut several for 68s but they make me nervous because there is not much surface area left. We have not had any failures yet though. Have not pushed a 68 to alky specs though either. Brandon

We just tested a new cut for a stock head for a 4mm bike with 795s. Ours test bike was only a dune port with toomeys so we would like to get it on a bike with more aggressive tuning and possibly Shearers or CPI OOFs. We are looking to send the head to someone that preferably drag races and familiar with tuning. Head is setup for alky, 795s, Cometic or thin base gaskets. Dyno would be a plus. We will send the head free of charge for testing. If you like it, price will be 75 bucks, if you're not happy or just don't want it, send it back, no charge. If interested, shoot me a PM so we can chat and we can get this head out. Thanks Brandon

K, this is bugging me, what is that video segment from in your avatar thing? Looks rather funny! B

I bet if you go to work on that vibration issue, you will like the bike a bit more. Kick starting is always a bitch though. You can actually put a small slot vertically on the exhaust to lower cranking compression. I sure love my Banshees but anyone can throw cash into parts. Hybrids are always neat to see when built right. B

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...5&start=195 Here is a link to what I posted the other day. scroll down. Mine was a TRX with an LT500. BY BY!! Lighter than a banshee by far and around 90HP but about 90lbs of torque too. B

:yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Bringing back to good old days. That story makes me want my Honzilla back. 560 stroker LT motor. Yes, they straight scoot and good luck catching a fast one. ONly problem is they are NOT reliable so when he breaks, you will pass him. You will likely need more motor to do much out of the hole that motor is a long stroke, big cc motor with a PV. I would pull several bike lengths on purpose built drag bikes with mine but the LT does not have any top end so at 200yds, my goose was cooked. Still pissed some people off when they "thought" they were racing a 250R..... Brandon

Not knowing your comp ratio, it sounds more like you just have an over heat issue. Over heat will cause detonation and that is what took our your O-ring. More than likely fix the cooling problem, you will fix the o-ring issue as well. Impeller to start. Keep in mind too that a banshee has no cooling fan so too much HP, too much throttle when your not moving fast enough to get good air flow across the heat exchanger will cause over heat too. Brandon

I am not familiar with Oxyclean but it sounda like an alkaline issue. Alkaline products remove the oxide layer of Al but if left on too long, They will further oxidize the surface of the part and eventually turn it near black. Structurally, you are fine. Just is not that pretty. One product you might try is I thing carb bright which is a more aggressive alky cleaner. possibly cut the surface again and get it off. Remove the part after a few minutes. You can also try some other alkys like NaOH (sodium hydroxide) that will surely cut the surface but that should only be on for a couple minutes max.

Speedy, did you ever get that motor going or the squish question figured out? One thing I forgot was to make sure you were using Rosin solder. Solid wire kind of has some memory to it. That might throw you a bit. B

Maybe I did not fully understand your statement. My apology. B

Your resistance seems close so I would get a better meter on it before getting another stator. You should easily be able to test the VAC volts from those two output leads not connected to a anything when running. If they do not climb upward of 30V, there are issues. I would start with that. If 1ohm IS what you have, you should test again right at the solder joints on the stator to rule out wire problems. Seen it many times. Brandon

1 ohm is not a short. Not by far. That is low resistance but the lighting coils is lower than that. If my Fluke read anything but zeros when I tough the leads together, I would have it recalibrated. The buzzer on most meters is set to go off at 1-2 ohms but that does not ID a short necessarily. brandon

NO, this one is solid carbon fiber titanium alloy with no flow through the bottle. I was told by my builder that even though it did not flow any air, it would still add 10HP because carbon fiber always adds HP. It works too! I am now passing 12mill cheetahs with my 350 motor!!! B

:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: Sank you, wise one!!! However, posting only on threads with good grammer and spelling ,I will need a new place to hang out. :yelrotflmao: Brandon