blowit

Then you surely have an issue. There is no way an engine will run if the tolerance is so wide that a piston "with rings on it" falls through the hole. I recommend a clymers manual first. Then pull a piston ring and check the ring end gap per the manual and let us know what you have. Are these new pistons? You have what is categorized as a "loose" situation. I prefer tight myself. Brandon

I did not see any drag sprinkles anywhere. Maybe some clean up candies though. B

LOL, I did not see that he was a new comer. Probably pissed him all of now. Hopefully he got the useful part of my post. I know what to add to my sig now though, "Periods and commas are like seat belts, only useful when used". K, I am no English major anyway.

Could I ask ur level of edumacation that you cannot add any periods to your post extremely difficult to reads regarding your pistons if they do not drop all the way down there is something wrong that is a test we always do in the shop the only way to know for sure that they are right is mic them it is normal for the crown to be a little loose as it expands with head. B

Just blend and roll on. Yes, you are putting too much thought into it. The reason some engine work gets "technical" is because it needs "talked up" to oppose it's simplicity. Case blending is easy, just DO NOT screw up the gasket surfaces or you will have a nightmare on your hands.

We have found no reason or test data that would prove epoxy is the way to go for simple case matching. Just not adding that much displacement to create an issue. True also that the wrong epoxy can flake off, especially with alky blends and do more harm than good. We have done plenty of cylinder epoxy in the quest for the most but that is usually not necessary. Blend out the cases and roll.

Can I throw my boost bottle in the party?

Could you better explain what your referring to? The transfer tunnels in the cylinder or case? Where is this epoxy? There are several reasons to use it but not sure what area you are talking about. Brandon

I don't believe you will see any difference at all if a competent tuner works on the carbs without a dyno. Remember, a dyno only gives data. It is the tuner's job to know what to do with that data and make use of it. Brandon

what does the other guy have? You have a boost bottle, you should have smoked him... Brandon

Oh man, you guys do not have one yet????? Get on it. I saw a 22HP boost on my Vespa and an increase of 345 MPG. I think it just might be a moleculizer. That sure is a really pretty and expensive air restriction in your intake. Just like the reed blocks with the cross vanes in them. Maximum air flow is only achieved if there is nothing obstructing it. Cooling looking little package though. Brandon

I am seriously wondering about your tester. "universal" scares me. Can you post a pic of the tip of it that goes into the head? I am looking for long threads and a schrader valve in the tip. Without those, your test is worthless. Boring is simply to clean the bore up if damaged. Not going to get much from it. Without knowing your mods, no idea what else to tell you. "if it ain't broke, don't fix it".......If it ain't broke and it truly is down 35-40psi on comp, it soon will be. Either your tester or engine need help. Brandon

I would have to disagree. Being 35lbs off from OEM specs is cause for inspection. The first things I would want to know is what kind oc comp gauge was used. The cheapy ones are notorious for showing low numbers. If the comp is indeed low, it should be opened "before" it pops. That is, if you want to save the crank. Brandon

The term "dune port" means nothing really. That is just a descriptive that applies to something in between a drag port and an MX port. It sounds to me like you got a mish mosh of porting. Raising the exhaust while just matching the transfers is the wrong way to go for MX in our opinion. We and most other engine builders would call this a play port or a trail port. I would have to see the entrance of the intake and transfers but that is what is sounds like. Glad you like it.. Brandon

I have been out of the dealerships for a day or two but when I was selling th SE models, there is ZERO difference. NO VIN diff, nothing. MSO did not indicate it. Just means it was not a true SE. Even if, they don't really bring a higher price and it is just stickers and some had some black painted added. The banshee has not changed in many years. all the same. Brandon

I did not realize as I did not read up on it yet. What a joke. Just give your kid a Wii, it is safer........ OK, I gotta stop now..... B

I worked with the dealers for 5 yrs. I know how you feel. TOTAL BS factor here. Very tricky wording to sell small ATVs. They are now trying to back door this deal with lead..... What a bunch of tool boxes they are. I have included a link of something I wrote about the subject years ago. This never really seems to affect dirk bikes though. They must be safer........ Not trying to bash the sport here but one of the things that burns my ass is when someone puts their 8yo on their banshee and says, look, they can ride it!!!!! Yeah, until they give it a little too much and do a face plant into the ground. I really think some people need to be checked for sanity for some of this. As we always said, you might as well give your 8yo a shot gun because it is the same level of danger and ignorance. The government can't protect themselves from themselves and the wrong people for the job. AND, if good old "GOD" man Obama gets his way, we will not be able to buy fire arms either. http://mullengineering.com/t1.cfm Brandon

As the title says, looking for a head shell. Does not need to be perfect but should function. Do not need domes. Do not want Pro Design. Head studs will not come out. Let me know guys.

Not sure what else to throw at you. You either have a leak somewhere or youfail are boiling cooling and it is steaming out. Another thing to check is the plugs on the bottom of the cylinders. If they fail, it is common for the base gaskets to leak into the crank case. Either way, you would be smelling it. Fatten the jetting I guess and see what it does but you generally have to be dangerously lean to cause overheat like you have quoted. B

OK, the pseudo force commonly called centrifugal force. An inertial force associated with rotation of a given mass. Brandon

From your mods list, I don't think you are super lean with a 310. If you can find a 315 main, let me know. :biggrin: You need to first see if th head is leaking. that is easy enough to figure out. If you are not running a burp bottle off the rad, it is normal for the rad to lose a little on the top but it will find a "happy spot" and stay there. If you keep losing it, and can find no leaks, You might want to look at the inside of the radiator for flow issues or blockage. If your rad cap does not build pressure, water on the hot spots of the engine can steam up, cause gas bubbles, and vent out. Pressure is there to resist boiling basically. Something to look at.

What really instigated our clutch R&D a while back was a nice MX bike we setup as a 7mm stock cylinder. a 100HP bike with a monster torque curve. I think we ended up detuning it though to hook up better and put more power on the bottom. Speedracer has one of our 4mm setups and is really happy with our broad, usable torque curve. We have had some success with the Cheetahs as well but we did end up modding a cub motor by cutting the bottom of the cylinder off and modding the head so we could hit our timing marks and make the bike more acceptable for closed course. I will agree, a standard stroker cub on an MX course can be down right dangerous! Either need that power valve or more acceptable port timing to make them mind a little better. B

I come from close course racing background and if I cannot use my clutch and slip it in every corner, I am screwed. motocross, supercorss, TT, hare scramble, woods, etc, they will benefit from a properly functioning clutch system. The reason I say overrides are not "ideal" for anything by drags is just that most us a lock up with them so I guess I said that wrong. The override really does not create any problem at all, it is the clutch that has always given me headaches in a long race. Even in tight trails on a high tune cub, you really need that clutch to help you stay in the power. I know plenty of guys that don't use a clutch but most experienced closed course racers will use the hell out of them. Guess it depends on your ride style. Hope that makes more sense.

By design, the lockup system does not balance very well so at higher rpm, the pressure plate can disengage rather awkward or cocked to one side and this can cause dragging of the clutch system. You need good clutch disengagement to get a transmission to shift right. I think you will find most people with a lock up use an override trans and don't mess with this clutch much. Not ideal for for anything but drag racing though. You may be experiencing a real awkward release of the pressure plate that is jamming up. I would recommend rotating the thing 180* and try it to see if anything changes. The lock up is harder to pull than stock. No way around that. It puts more force on the pressure plate so the faster you go, the more it clamps. I am not a fan of the lock up for casual riding personally. Brandon

I was just curious if any of you high HP guys would be interested in a near stock pull clutch that will hold 150HP? We have a prototype out that is rocking on a few bikes and curious if this would be something would want to avoid the cost of a lockup and override? Holding a few long stroke Cheetahs right now. We could probably get a bit more from it though with a bit tighter spring. Just curious. Brandon