blowit

If you are feeling cocky you can pull the actuator arm, drill the L side of case half in the center of the trans axle, and pull the rod out that way. Rubber plug it when done. Can also put a smaller hole in just to help tap it out too. Brandon

How the heck does that happen? Why did you not grind down the OD a bit before install? Did you toast a ball before? Keep in mind that rod does get hot and should have a clearance fit, not an interference fit. Brandon

All I can find right now is a couple build sheets and both bikes had custom pipes by FTZ. I seem to remember us doing some design work with them around an old LRD RH pipe design that was modded for a 2 n2 1. Both builds were for the same team. I know we worked with the Dynoport too and I know we dug some nice torque with them. No matter, sounds like your position is already made. Only takes one wrong component to ruin the harmony of a 2 into 1. Brandon

Which pipe are you referring to? I will have to find those dyno sheets. Far from flat on the bottom. More like rip your head off torque. The pipe works well if tuned right due to one sides positive wave becoming the other's return wave. We did find some port timings that made them pretty happy. Brandon

surprised no one has mentioned a 2into1 pipe. Killer pipe for trails and woods racing. I would use nothing else. Not sure on sound but they are not too loud compared to dual pipe setups. I would be willing to build a custom silencer if I had to just to use the 2 into 1 pipe. With the right port setup, they are untouchable in the woods. Brandon

UHH.... Squirt a little oil in the trans axle and ride it.... Brandon

I don't think you followed me. There is no relation between bore/hone and chamfer meaning just because you hone does not mean your chamfer is good to start with! We have built over 1000 banshee engines and I can't tell you how many have improper port chamfer. Not true that port port chamfer will also cause piston problems. Of course we will need more data on this engine to even know what the problem is. Bottom of exhaust port will cause rapid ring wear without hardly affecting piston wear. Brandon

Bore or hone has nothing to do with port chamfer. Chamfer is critical for proper ring life. If you are lopsided, there is a reason. Get a close pic of the exhaust port or so some more investigating. brandon

Exhaust port too large or port chamfer insufficient. This is very common and directly points at these items. Excessive heat can also cause ring bind by closing the ring land gap on the exhaust side. Bottom side of the pistons will indicate this as well as the ground strap on the plugs. brandon

I sense a group hug coming...... EZ there. Could your gap measurement have anything to do with a certain coin??? Brandon

How about that 116 oct??

Sounds like jetting might be a hair lean, heat range of plug may need bumped to a 9 if it is hot outside, and we target .035 for squish to retard detonation. I would want that squish number down. BANK on this, you do NOT need 50/50 mix or straight race fuel, or diesel fuel to retard detonation. We have motors running every weekend at 175-190psi on pump fuels. 150 is not even close. Feel free to go pump up a brand new 125/250 dirt bike for comparison and those are to be run on 92oct fuel from the OEM. Point being, there are other factors besides compression that dictate a detonating condition. That being said, you will never hurt the engine by running 50/50 fuel and it will give a level of protection but I would not go straight race fuel. That will be a waste. I think if you are experiencing detonation right now, you need to look else where than fuel. Brandon

I would not be so quick to just blame the mechanic. Seems if a problem is not solved the first time, every time by a tech, he is considered incompetent. It is likely that since your pilots were clogged, this may have leaned the bike enough to detonate thus killing rod bearings. The carbs may have plugged again too if an inline fuel filter was not added. The OEM in tank filter sucks. I am willing to wager my left nut that the specs you see on the plug is Al from the top of the piston from detonation. That does not mean to engine is toast but it needs looked at for sure. It is also possible that a clamp was not tightened causing a lean condition but if you yourself cannot do a carb clean, and took the bike to someone you cannot trust, shame on you. I think until the verdict is in, leave the speculation of negligence in the wind. You may have already started the fuse on that motor and he just happened to touch it just before it blew. Who knows. Brandon

check needle position and sync carbs. I agree, jetting. 116 WILL run fine with that compression but you will want to bump the timing a bit to get the most out of it. It will NOT make more power but you can use it. If you did have to choose, anything over 100 oct will be fine. You also NEEED to drop your plug gap if you have not to .020 from the OEM .028. That WILL cause this problem. You can be all over the map with jetting and never get spark snuff out without dropping the gap. Brandon

Check stator and work from there. Also look at schematic for isolating kill circuits for the CDI. Also make sure you have throttle play for the TORS. Don't lean on the CDI just yet. Brandon

Generally speaking, there really is not anything to tighten up in the clutch pack with use but if a clutch spring or two breaks, it will cause irregular disengagement of the pressure plate. I would think you have a problem with the clutch cable. Debris make their way in the cable and causes problems. Put some lube in the cable. May also remove the cable from th clutch arm on the motor and see if the arm moves free. It should. If not, take the clutch apart, including the push rod and ball. Brandon

You will have some resistance on the primaries but it will be low so if your meter is not set right or is cheap, it may not catch it. Your target values are correct. Try another meter before you replace the coil. I hope it is disconnected too. brandon

Thanks you. I was too lazy. B

Primary test between the two blade terminals. Secondary is from plug wire to plug wire without caps on. Some Clymer manuals show the test wrong. Test each cap separately. Also remove the plug wires from the coil, trim, and reterminate. They are RARELY bad but people love to replace them just for fun. Brandon

If you are concerned about a potential timing problem, you need to get a timing light on it and see where you are at. It is possible to have mounting of the pickup coil issues which ultimately decides your timing, not the plate itself. Also, if your air gap between the flywheel and PU coil is large, it will cause this delayed response and require more timing to work correctly. Brandon

If Jeff worked them, you are fine. Ride it. Keep an eye on the plugs. Go RIDE! Brandon

I have had your wife blowing it for years now and no one seemed to mind :biggrin: :biggrin: Technically galling only occurs with similar metals. :biggrin: Man, who is the smart ass today???? If you are seeing erosion below the rings at the exhaust, you may make sure you have good chamfer on that port. Very common to have problems there especially it someone went wide with the porting. The port will dig into the piston a bit and wear the ring in that area. Brandon

ASSWHORE, I don't see problems. Put the pipes back on and ride..... Brandon

Removed snorkel from air box lid and adjust the parking brake. I worked in a dealership for years and ran into this before. Parking brake has a rev limiter and can cause this. The TORS problem generally shows up near idle conditions only. At that they would only need "adjusted" and not "broke" as others would lead you to believe. If all else fails, the carbs may need to come off and get cleaned. We have seen packing grease and or sediment in new carbs causing problems. Brandon

Could be a number of things but 250-600 in parts would be a good guess on a worse case. Brandon